RETIRED GUY PROJECTS

[Kusojiji]

PWM Power Supply

Saw this on youztube and decided to give it a go. It can take 5-35VDC input, so is very versatile. I built it to run my small coreless motor stuff and have the high frequency PWM to run the lights. All the parts came from the jungle site.

Put it all in a small lunch box. The meters were from my collection of wrong stuff sent but they don't want it back orders from amazon.

Running with a 5VDC brick, at this voltage, the train lights were on, but it wasn't moving.

 

[Kusojiji]

DAPOL GWR 517 DCC

Dapol engineers their models to have a slide out board for the decoder, making it easy to chip. Just pull the smoke box door off with their provided tool and pray that you don't break anything.

Just pull the blanking plate off and install N18 decoder.

Next was to ascertain space for a stay alive and headlamp. Body comes off with 4 screws. Not a lot of space...

Luckily, the speaker comes off easily and provides about 5mm extra space plus the space under it.

 

[Kusojiji]

GWR 517 CONT

The supercaps fit and there may be enough room for the control board.

With the body off, added 2 layers of wax paper over the firebox hole.

And attenuated the firebox all the way down to 10 out of 255. Still too bright, but the LEDs are masked a bit better.

But, I noticed that the firebox board has a 1K ohm resistor on it. I may increase it to 10K.

Well, it's all back together for now and will run it tonight. Preliminary running is good without a stay alive, so we'll see. I may have room for the resistor board for the headlamp. If not, then a direct wire surface mount resistor will have to do.

 

[Frenchie]

Wow !

 

[Kusojiji]

The UK market really loves tiny, prototypical details. Unfortunately for folks like me, they tend to get broken off when doing stuff like adding DCC or whatever. Hornby has a Railroad range which is geared towards children or old children like me. Molded on piping cannot be broken off. And they're cheaper. But, can still be modded.

 

[Kusojiji]

TOMIX KOTODEN DCC

Wasn't planning on it, but what the hey. This thing really isn't made for DCC as the lightboard does not have any space for wiring.

First step, take everything apart.

Then see what kind of space I have. None here.

I thought I had space here, but I forgot something.

Then it was figure out the board layout and plan on the wiring.

When it was time to put it together, it didn't fit. The brass pickups wouldn't touch the bottom of the lighting board. I had forgotten to check clearance with the black pieces.

So all that wiring needs to be run in the driveshaft tunnel. MTF.

 

[Frenchie]

Exciting ! I love the story, proving that will power and brainstorming are the answers to many issues.

 

[Kusojiji]

Exciting ! I love the story, proving that will power and brainstorming are the answers to many issues.

Thanks! There are ups and downs and I figured since I am beyond the point of no return, have to keep on going. I wanted to make it reversible, but I had to cut some runs. I could always just solder a wire in though.

 

[Kusojiji]

So, I decided against running the wires in the drive shaft tunnel since it was too close to the flywheels. I ended up clearancing the floor board, to create a channel between the relief that the seats provided. Used a file. I really need to get a moto-tool...

Got it all squeezed in. The wires are running up the column that Tomix uses for their light kit. Makes a perfect wire run. I'll have to paint the wires that can be seen between the seats. I have some peoples coming in tomorrow to fill up the seats. Going to have to cut legs off though.

Anyway, that's all for tonight. It's time to run some trains! MTF.

 

[Kusojiji]

DAPOL GWR 517 HEADLAMP

Started this thing and decided to try an amber LED vice a warm white. Got the wires soldered to the next18 socket board, along with the resistor board. Once I get the lamp soldered on, the resistor board will get stuck to the bottom of the socket board.

Had to build the lamp, so drilled out the holes, stuck the 603 LED in and set it with white glue. Waiting for the glue to dry then will blob the paint on to prevent bleed through.

MTF.

 

[Kusojiji]

Just realized I didn't update the KOTODEN tram.

Got the peoples in the mail, late last night and got them in. Had to cut them at the shins to fit. I paired up some of the folks so that they were not all strangers.
Young couple.

Older couple.

And some college students hitting the books.

Wired the decoder and the 4 resistors in. Used 1206 SMD 1K ohm resistors for the two headlights and two tail lights. HL, TL, AUX1, and AUX2. I used a regular resistor at 2K for the cabin light. Had to cut some clearance in the ceiling for the decoder to poke through. The roof had extra space, so it all fit.

Got it all put together, programmed and running. Runs awesome! I programmed it to run slow.

Yeah, I noticed that headlight drooping a bit. Fixed it later.

 

[Kusojiji]

Finished the headlamp install on the GWR 517. Looks good with very low intensity. 20K resistor and attenuated all the way down to 25 out of 255.

 

[Kusojiji]

RIVAROSSI HO BIG BOY FIREBOX

Been wanting to do this for a while, so now's as good a time as any.

Drilled a bunch of .5mm holes into the firebox doors then temporarily stuck an amber flickering led behind it to see how it looks.

Drew up a LED holder and placed the 5mm LED into it. Tested the resistors and will be going with a 4.7K resistor.

I sanded the top of the LED to help diffuse the beam of light.

Now, need to put a bridge rectifier on this and it'll be ready for installation.

While at it, I will be making the head and tail lights directional instead of always on as I currently have it. I needed a stay alive circuit for the lights, so I drew this up in tinkercad.

Breadboarded and tests good. I simulated poor rail contact by flicking the power lead and the LED remains on. Reversed the power leads and the capacitor doesn't see any reverse bias power, so all is good.

MTF

 

[Kusojiji]

Got the firebox module completed and tested. This has a bridge rectifier so that it is on in either direction.

Tested in place. Looks like I need to chase the crud out of some of them holes.

Ship under construction.

 

[Kusojiji]

Finished. Looks good and works great.

The tail lamp comes on dim for some reason when going forward, which is cool so I may just leave it.

Gotta find that ticking noise as it goes around the a right-hand corner.

 

[DeaconKC]

Both turned out great!

 

[RhB Michael]

Yep, that firebox is awesome.

 

[TheXModelRailroader]

Finished. Looks good and works great.
View attachment 265185
View attachment 265186

The tail lamp comes on dim for some reason when going forward, which is cool so I may just leave it.

Gotta find that ticking noise as it goes around the a right-hand corner.

It looks great! Does the circuit you drew up make the LED flicker, or just protection?
Need to get me one of those Big Boys!

 

[Kusojiji]

It looks great! Does the circuit you drew up make the LED flicker, or just protection?
Need to get me one of those Big Boys!

The circuit is to prevent flickering for the head and tail lights. The extra diode is to protect the capacitor from reverse voltage when going in the opposite direction. When I cut power, the LED remains on for a few seconds.

The firebox LED is a flickering type, 5mm amber. This doesn't need a capacitor or diode as a rail induced flicker adds to the effect.

Yeah, this old girl runs very nicely. I bought it in '94. I found the source of the tick and straightened out that rod. She starts moving way before the coach lamps can come on, so I guess I should be pulling freight.

 

[Kusojiji]

ARUMODEL TRAM

Finally decided to get started on this. I bought some brasso to get the brass more receptive to holding on to paint.

Got all the parts out and brasso'd with a tooth brush. Pain to get them all wiped off.

This kit is bend and tab to hold it all together. Will probably be soldering to strengthen it all up.

I have already built the power bogie for it.

MTF