RETIRED GUY PROJECTS

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Got my two new Terriers in today.
POPLAR FRONT QUARTER.jpeg
SOUTHERN FRONT QUARTER.jpeg


After running them in to ensure they work, it was time to get rid of those horrid tension lock couplings. Kadee 18 wouldn't fit as they hit the prototype coupling hooks that were factory installed.
KADEE 18 FRONT HOOK.jpeg


Luckily, I had some spare 19s around and they fit perfectly. Spacing may be a little long, but as long as they work, its fine.
KADEE 19 HOOK CLEAR.jpeg


Comparison 18 to 19. Hopefully easy to see.
KADEE 18 MED.jpeg
KADEE 19 LONG.jpeg

18's are 8.63mm, 19's are 10.61mm. I have an order in for the 19's since my Bachmann coaches need them. I also have an order in for the 20's (11.68mm) that my N2 needs. Nothing like yanking coaches off the track in a turn for some excitement.
 
HORNBY TERRIER POPLAR DCC

Yeah, I just got it yesterday and I tore it all up to install the DCC. Last night was non-destructive by fitting a 6 pin 90 degree decoder, bent an extra 90 degrees. Not a lot of space in there.
BODY SPACE.jpeg

SOCKET AND PLUG.jpeg

6 PIN BENT.jpeg


Attached a TCS KA-N1 super tiny stay alive. This has 1000uf of capacitance and works pretty good with low draw coreless motors.
DECODER STAY ALIVE.jpeg


Decoder stack looked like this and ran like this, but I could not fit the body back on all the way. It was very close.
DECODER STACK.jpeg


So, I removed the 6 pin socket and direct wired a wire decoder in.
TERRIER DCC SOCKET.JPG

TERRIER DECODER WIRED.JPG


So now, everything fits with a lot of room to spare.

Next up will be the headlamp and firebox flicker. I used a resistor board and put a yellow flickering led.
FIREBOX FLICKER TEST.JPG
 


Got the body off the frame to get a better look at everything. The firebox door wasn't where I was expecting it as it is all the way at the bottom, below the coffee mug holder.
FIREBOX LOCATION.jpeg
FIREBOX DOOR.jpeg


So, I drilled a 2.5mm hole.
FIREBOX HOLE.jpeg


And got the placement for the circuit board. It's stuck on with doublesided tape, so I can adjust if necessary.
FIREBOX FLICKER PLACEMENT.jpeg


Got the decoder programmed and had to reduce the intensity almost all the way down. My DC version will definitely get a larger resistor.
FIREBOX LED TEST.jpeg


Had to make the headlamp, so I made 6 more. The paint is currently drying, so more to follow.
 
Decided to change the resistor for the firebox flicker as the 1K resistor required attenuating all the way down to 10 out of 255. I ended up using a 10K, so attenuation in the decoder is at 120. Gives me room to maneuver later.

I glued some wax paper on the inside of the firebox hole to help diffuse it a bit.
WAX PAPER.jpeg
WAX PAPER CAB.jpeg


Got it all wired up.
ALL WIRED UP SMALL.JPG


Headlamp on
HEADLAMP ON SMALL.JPG


Firebox lit
FIREBOX LIT SMALL.JPG
 
DC VERSION HEADLAMP AND FIREBOX

Finished the Southern Terrier headlamp and firebox. This one went quickly since I had just completed Poplar (DCC). I forgot that I run my DC stuff around 4-7 volts vice the 13.8 volts that DCC puts on the track, so my resistor values are much lower.

I also remembered that I needed a bridge rectifier for the firebox. Everything was going to be connected to the 6 pin blanking plate.
BLANKING AND BRIDGE.JPG

BRIDGE AND HL BOARD.JPG


And onto the 6 pin blanking plate.
BRIDGE AND HL ON BLANKING.JPG


Tested the firebox on a rolling road.
FIREBOX TEST 1.JPG


Got everything together and tested. Looks awesome! Will be running both tonight.
HL ON.JPG

FIREBOX ON.JPG


Yeah, it slid off the rollers, but she actually runs better like this.
 
HORNBY PECKETT HEADLAMP

Finally taking the plunge to get the headlamp in. Wanted to do a firebox as well, but the cab is glued on and I don't have access to drill a hole. The open cab would have made it easy to see the effect.
LADY EDITH.JPG


Anyway, got the .5mm hole drilled into this lug of metal. Took a while.
HEADLAMP HOLE 80.JPG


And found a location for the resistor board.
LED RESISTOR BOARD LOCATION 80.JPG
 


ACCURASCALE ANDREW BARCLAY HEADLAMP AND FIREBOX

Since I am on a roll, may as well keep going. Another 0-4-0 tank engine.
Andrew Barclay Efficient.jpeg


This one required a tiny decoder due to the way the slot is mounted. An ESU micro and a TCS KA-N1 stay alive fit.
AB ESU TCS BODY.jpg


Took the body apart and drilled the holes for the headlamp and firebox. Luckily, the cab roof came off so that I could drill the firebox hole. This guy is all plastic on the body, so it was much easier to drill out than the Peckett.
BODY SPACING 80.JPG


The details on the backhead are amazing. And it is cast with the firebox doors open...
BACKHEAD DETAILS 80.JPG


So I put the led board together and marked the location that the LED needed to be at on the chassis.
FIREBOX LED MARK 80.JPG

FIREBOX LED LOCATION 80.JPG


Mounted the headlamp. I found a picture of the actual AB Efficient and the headlamp is a bronze color, so this one won't be white like my others.
HEADLAMP MOUNTED 80.JPG


Since I ran out of the resistor boards, this one will have a resistor soldered to the wires. I have 25 boards on order, but not here yet.

MTF.
 
AB COMPLETED

Didn't forget to put the wax paper.
WAX PAPER 80.JPG

FIREBOX HOLE 80.JPG


Well, had to move the firebox LED to the body as the previous location wouldn't permit the body to be put back on the chassis. So I changed the wires to the shellac tiny stuff for flexibility.
FIREBOX LED IN BODY 80.JPG


Got it all wired up with the stay alive disconnected for programming.
WIRED UP 80.JPG


Headlamp on.
HEADLAMP ON 80.JPG


Firebox on. Flickering is erratic with these LEDs, as it should be. The ESU decoder has a firebox effect, but I just stayed with the flickering LED.
FIREBOX ON.JPG
 






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