Real estate for a wye?

[P&LE]

Gents,

I'm kicking around the idea of including a wye at the end of a branchline on my (still in the planning stage) HO Pittsburgh & Lake Erie RR layout.

I'm using xtracad software for my planning (doodling), but I'm still in the learning curve.

Can someone please help me with the layout/geometry for a small wye? I'll need it to occupy minimal space at the end of a dead end branch line. It would be used to turn small first generation diesels and some small steamers. If it's important, the minimum radius on the branch will be 24". The tail tracks would only need to handle a single loco, but if there was enough space, maybe I could use it to turn cabeese (cabooses, lol) too.

I'm wondering though, in 1952 (my chosen era), in the backwoods of PA, at the dead end of an isolated branch line, should I even use a wye or would a turntable be more appropriate?

Thanks for any help or input.

PLE

 

[TheGloriousTachikoma]

There are lots of designs for Wyes. Atlas printed some in a couple of their books. About the smallest possible Wye you can make uses three Atlas Wye turnouts, three 18"r full curves, and three 18"r 1/3 curves. The minimum space should be fairly easy to figure out. for 24" curves in the Wye, you would have 5-6' of length (turnouts included) and about...three, three and a half feet of depth. there are scissors Wyes that trade length for depth.

And why would you need to turn a caboose? I think that in real life, Wyes would be cheaper to build and maintain than a turntable. Modelers don't usually have the luxury of all that space though. I doubt if you used a small turntable people will fuss over it though.

 

[trailrider]

What type of engines are you using in the 1950's period? Also, what are the longest cars you will use? I don't see why you'd need 24" radius curves. For a branchline back then 18" radius curves should work. If not, you could go to 22" radius. If you wanted a compromise between the two, Shinohara makes 20" radius sectional track, which is what I'm using as my mainline radius on my curves at either end of a folded dogbone. I run Proto2000 E5's (kitbashed from E6's with little trouble. On a branch, it would depend on several things... If you must turn your steamers, then the tail track must be slightly longer than the longest hog. It also depends on the brand and model. I would think a
light 2-8-2 would be about the heaviest loco a branch would run, and likely they'd go with 2-8-0's. For diesels, you could either run GP-7/9's or F-3/7/9's. I would stay away from six-axle "motors". Just MHO, of course.

 

[Cjcrescent]

I believe that a TT would be more realistic, mainly because the maintenance involved between 3 separate turnouts and the tracks running between them would be more of a headache than the close-in TT. I have seen pictures of turntables that were "armstrongs", (real live manuals requiring the crew to turn the loco with muscle power), and there is no pit, or ring rails. Just the turntable mounted on a big center bearing. The crew would "balance" the loco on the TT, unlock it, and then spin it by hand. After turning, they would lock the table down and move the loco off. Lots smaller space to maintain, and more importantly, after dieselization, lots less to to scrap.

 

[P&LE]

Ok gents, thanks for the input. I think I'm going to go with a turntable for the end of the branch. Better use of the available space and it will be visually interesting.

PLE