Railflyer at Springfield

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Nice Sinclair's, are you doing both the long & short ones? Some of my BNSF Dash 9's are running 3 short, one long, one can.
 
Chris,

One thing that occurred to me - and it appears I'm not alone based on the comments on the MR site - is there doesn't seem to be a Kadee compatible coupler out there that will fit your kits.
 


Jeff,

Nobody has done a scale based coupler with a scale shank yet. Its something being worked on, I have been contacting some of the existing coupler suppliers to see if they want to pick this project up, they make versions for just about everything now, why not a scale shank that will be a drop fit. Some guys are modifying the pin and shank to make it work. Its just a unique system as its an actual scale pocket. Hasn't been done yet in HO until now.

CJH
 
Chris, have you talked to Accurail? They have a scale size coupler that fits your coupler plate, but is not long enough to reach the pin on your frame. They may not be kadee, but it is another avenue to pursue.

I'd like to see Sergent do something personally.
 
I'd be tempted to try the Sergent EN87's in my coupler boxes, though it'll take modification. However, he's re-tooling the line right now so I cannot get any EN87's, not to mention I still have to order the rest of the RailFlyer parts.
 
Couplers

Guys,

One thing you can do is email these companies, a percieved demand will do more to get these things out quicker.

Please note:

The coupler pocket cover is a press fit. I placed the pin where it would likely be the best place for a custom made coupler to fit properly. This does not preclude you from cutting the pin, its plastic, and cementing a different style of coupler box into the cavity. As stated these were designed to proto specs, so this much thinner than existing shells. If you place an Atlas engine next to the frame for example you will see a huge difference. Athearn is the same.

I'll try some more pounding on my end, as stated if these guys will not pick up the slack, I will offer it in the near future.

Thanks. The GMDD Wide Cab is very likely to start shipping in three weeks. Some went out early minus the photo-etch, Fred has one coming so hopefully he will share images with us. I am too busy to build one myself just yet.

CJH
 
New Parts!

I received a package from Christopher the other day that included
among other things:

MK3000 - Hood doors for GP38-2/40-2 units.
http://members.trainorders.com/cslemp/railflyer/mk3000-1.jpg
http://members.trainorders.com/cslemp/railflyer/mk3000-2.jpg
These are interesting. Christopher took a new approach with these so
they require a considerably different assembly process from Cannon.
Essentially, they go together by laminating 3 layers of very thin
brass to a sheet of .020" styrene. The etchings are very nicely done,
as are the IM knuckle busters (in the clear plastic pouch visible in
the photo).

MK7000 - Underframe bracing for 34' wheelbase locomotives.
http://members.trainorders.com/cslemp/railflyer/mk7000.jpg
This is a handy length of photo etch that replicates the bracing found
under the prototype. It has predrilled holes that position the air
tank brackets, bell, salem filters and other underfram components.

DP6621 - Marker lights
http://members.trainorders.com/cslemp/railflyer/dp6621.jpg
This is a PE fret full of light frames and blanks in just about every
style EMD ever used.

If anyone will be at the NE RPM meet on the 30th and 31st I'll have
all these there (hopefully assembled).

Chris
 
do you know if there is any real difference in the plastic moldings for the ge and emd ditch lights? Im not to concerned about the metal parts really as im going to be using 1 pair for my custom transfer caboose.
 


Ditch Lights

Hi,

The ditch light kits use the same injection molded part, its the metal brackets that change. I have the artwork ready for the GE versions but its not getting run until the wide cab PE is done. If you want just the plastic, DP 6632 is your pick.

Thanks.

CJH

PS a note on the doors is that they work and look great but I might reformat the photo-tool so the door frame layer and base plate are consolidated so its just a matter of fitting the doors to door frame layer and then inserting the knuckle busters in from behind the assembly until they protrude. This would minimize some of the curl you see and also eliminate two parts from the kit. If you assemble the doors by taping the door frame layer stiff and insert them the curling isn't an issue and they look nice, straight and crisp.
 
Shipment

Josh,

Your order was shipped the same day as Chris Slemp, noticed on the D List you were wondering when they would show up and also here. Should be any day now.

CJH
 
Canada Post, or UPS/Fedex? I've been holding off on emailing you about how it was shipped, might be a local mail thing though.
 
Mailing From Canada

Josh,

We send via Canada Post. We do not have great shipping options in our area. UPS, Fed Ex, DHL all charge additional fees that usually total close to the amount of your order for brokerage, out of area delivery etc, even though the transit times are the same for USPS or Canada Post.

Some orders do not take long others do. I have two orders that went to Australia and New Zealand last month that have taken over 6 weeks so far. Its all hit and miss. You should have something any day now, even if it was send surface. We send most by air however some go surface if we owe you additional stock as I need to send you new side sills from our next run.

All the best,

CJH
 
Well, I'm hoping... I got 5 packages waiting in my apartment complex office, so it might be in there. I'll get them on my way home around noon.
 


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