Nysw F45
Hi,
I have some answers for you. You would have to cobble the unit together with my products but its possible. A few guys are building straight SD40's with my frame, I have the treads and pilots in stock to do so. This would not be any different.
I would use the GP D2 frame with an extra defective frame portion for $1.99 to get the additional length required. Cut a splice into the frame just before the rear truck and the fuel tank mounting point. With the plastic you can make your own weight for the rear and there would be no strength issues. The plastic has cores for the internal weights. This splice would move the fuel tank forward accurately and give the wide spacing. It looks like they widened the wheelbase as the rear truck seems to be the normal spacing from the rear pilot.
The side sills are separate parts so they can be modified. I am etching some different sills in a new production batch to bring in GP15-1, SD40, SD40A side sills and the GP35. The GP35 is something I'm going to do using the methods I'm describing.
I would possibly use an additional side sill kit for this build. They are available to dress up your non-railflyer shells and add our realistic bolster detail. Just cut a 5' plug and solder it on to the rear portion of the sill. After filing it, it would be seamless.
The front steps seam like a match for our 6014 step well. The rear are just a Canadian step hacked apart. Use 6003 as this is the correct pattern. Just modify by discarding the step well and just use the front face and top which are one piece. Using Xuron 440 shears makes this task easy. The photo-etch is great for this part as its fine and thin.
I would go with our 6050 for the rear pilot. You would have to fill the top corners as the anti-climber goes the full width. I can't say what to use for the front from the images however from the side it looks like 6050 would work.
The fuel tank would likely be best modeled with the plastic from our 3600 US GAL Tank. The reason is that the front of the tank is very close to the trucks. If you add the plug to the frame as previously mentioned the existing fuel tank mount would make your placement a no brain-er. Cut a plug from the fuel tank plastic to make it the proper length from behind this mount. I can mix and match these components. Use our existing 1700 US GAL weight or if you can cut solid stainless steel with your tools, use a bigger weight. The end plates can be used from any of our kits. The top plate has two options. Go with our 3600 size and cut the rear to correct length or just take .005" styrene for the top. The benefit of our top plates is that the hole makes the fit easy, just place the text down, line up the center hole with the center hole in the fuel tank and ensure its aligned with the edges of the fuel tank.
Use our air tanks and under-frame details.
You can cut our pilot end, walkway or sheet treads to get the tread-plating or kitbash the generic sizes with our 6107 kit.
The walkway duct might work as is. With the plug in the frame its hard to tell if its a dash 2 or non dash 2 duct. The non dash 2 is 6 inches shorter. Just cut our GP D2 Walkway Duct if this is the case.
The system is totally modular and was designed to be a blank canvass for scratch-building. Our hood components will follow the same concept so you will have items to work with above the deck.
All the best, email me directly through out web-site if you want to build a package. We can mix and match for you.
Christopher Howard
Railflyer Model Prototypes Inc.
www.railflyermodelprototypes.com
