Quick Rant
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And I ......"always".... predrill a small pilot hole in the "plywood" for my screws.
Sometimes I have to do a small countersink where the pilot hole is.
This always works for me.
Certain joints are also glued und screwed and I use pilot holes as stated above.
I brace the legs diagonally with 1x3s.
I have a lot of respect and admiration for those that build perfect benchwork like cabinet maker would.
I tried to read the other thread, to see if you have pictures of the support under the peninsula, but a) its a long thread and b) there are lots of missing pictures at least in the first couple of pages.
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michaeljoe
Well-Known Member
My train table/platform is made of 2"x3"s with plywood top.
And I ......"always".... predrill a small pilot hole in the "plywood" for my screws.
Sometimes I have to do a small countersink where the pilot hole is.
This always works for me.
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RhB Michael
RhB Lokführer
I predrilled all of my 1x4 when building the table legs. I wanted to be sure none of it split. It's also all glued with Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue.
Where there was solid plywood-on-frame on my cookie-cutter type benchwork, the screw holes on the perimeter were drilled and countersunk.
All of my framework is glued and screwed. It's also screwed to the wall and is solid as the walls themselves.
Where there was solid plywood-on-frame on my cookie-cutter type benchwork, the screw holes on the perimeter were drilled and countersunk.
All of my framework is glued and screwed. It's also screwed to the wall and is solid as the walls themselves.
Rico
BNSF Modeller
Haven’t had any issues yet over the years.
Certain joints are also glued und screwed and I use pilot holes as stated above.
Selector
Well-Known Member
Wood screws hold well in plywood as long as you don't over-drive them to the point where the screw head is embedded 1/4" deep. I use at most 5/8", or did, but now just use 1 X 2 or 1/2" GIS ply. Also, the screw must go into the face of plywood, never into an edge.
As for gluing, I only ever glue L-girders along with a few screws...just for extra oomph.
As for gluing, I only ever glue L-girders along with a few screws...just for extra oomph.
Iron Horseman
Well-Known Member
If I understand what you area saying, rip them. I just did that for a chicken coop I was working on. I got 2"x4"x8's and rip them in half for 2x2s and then cross cut them in half again for 2"x2"x4'. The home made ripped 2x2s were bigger than the ones they were trying to sell in the store.
Canalligator
Well-Known Member
I use 2x2s for benchwork legs. Big box stores hereabouts don’t even sell 2x2s anymore. Instead, I just buy a reasonably straight 2x4 and rip it in half. I get 4 legs from one 2x4. This is best done with a table saw, but you can do it with a circular saw too.
I brace the legs diagonally with 1x3s.
I use a pair of 1x3s screwed together to make a corner. I've never needed to add bracing. It leaves less stuff to whack my head on when I crawl under the layout.
Jim at BSME
Member
Typically 1x and 2x are different grade/type of wood as there are different pine trees they are milled from. The 1x will be planed and smooth on all sides and probably not many blemishes. The 2x will be rougher looking and need to be sanded or preferably run through a planer to make it look nicer. Of course for this application looks is probably not an issue.
Canalligator
Well-Known Member
Hey I like that idea!
riogrande5761
Well-Known Member
Since decent plywood can be rather expensive and very often looking bowed or warped in the lumber section. I used OSB sheets for my subroadbed. I use 19/32" thick for yard areas and 23/32" thick for narrow single or double track sections. For the open grid sections, I use clear 1x4 lumber with 1x3 cross members. For legs, 2x4's and in a few places 2x2's.
I build benchwork like a "bubba" also. My support legs are warped, none of my wood is straight, BUT it is level on top.
I have a lot of respect and admiration for those that build perfect benchwork like cabinet maker would.
riogrande5761
Well-Known Member
The posh way of building benchwork for years had been L-girder, but for me it seems overly complicated to build and my wood working skills are very basic so I just build open grid and bold'em together and then install either flat OSB with Homasote for yards or risers with subroadbed and no cleats. I found those to be superfluous.
Metal Benchwork
I didn't care for all that wooden structure to support the decks on which i would be laying my track. I found some metal beams I attached to the studs in my wall system, then cantilevered the 3/4 plywood decks off of that .
I had a bunch of photos on the forum here but somehow they are de-linked. So you will have to go over to this other forum to have a look,.
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I didn't care for all that wooden structure to support the decks on which i would be laying my track. I found some metal beams I attached to the studs in my wall system, then cantilevered the 3/4 plywood decks off of that .
I had a bunch of photos on the forum here but somehow they are de-linked. So you will have to go over to this other forum to have a look,.
Metal Benchwork
This particular idea of mine was born in an evolutionary manner while figuring out how I was going to construct the shelves for my double-deck layout. https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/help-please-design-a-dbldeck-layout-in-its-own-handhouse-shed-12207028 I have been considering both 1) thick...
forum.mrhmag.com
Metal Benchwork
This particular idea of mine was born in an evolutionary manner while figuring out how I was going to construct the shelves for my double-deck layout. https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/help-please-design-a-dbldeck-layout-in-its-own-handhouse-shed-12207028 I have been considering both 1) thick...
forum.mrhmag.com
Metal Benchwork
This particular idea of mine was born in an evolutionary manner while figuring out how I was going to construct the shelves for my double-deck layout. https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/help-please-design-a-dbldeck-layout-in-its-own-handhouse-shed-12207028 I have been considering both 1) thick...
forum.mrhmag.com
Jim at BSME
Member
While you state it is cantilevered, it is not, and this may be some of the confusion on the other forum. The front edge of the plywood is supported by the metal framework. A cantilevered installation would have NO framework of any kind supporting the front edges. Cantilevered means it is only fixed/supported at one end. Most shelves have some amount of cantilever, if the shelf bracket doesn't extend all the way to the front edge of the shelf. The part of the shelf (wood) that is unsupported from the front of the bracket to the front edge of the shelf would be considered cantilevered.
If you look closely at my benchwork you would find some horizontal metal pieces on the aisle edges of the plywood decks, protecting an keeping the plywood from distortion bending. But there are VERY few vertical support pieces. It is primarily 3/4 plywood bolted to the metal beams along the walls, then cantilevered out toward the aisles
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My Latest Photos,.....Dec 24, 2022
and finally with my estate purchased water front scene in its place,...
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and finally with my estate purchased water front scene in its place,...
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Interesting track plan, Tupper Lake & Faust Junction
This plan appeared in the Handbook #15, Track Planning Ideas from Model Railroader, (58 track plans from past issues), multiple printings beginning in 1981. I'm interested in posting a scan of that layout plan from my issue of that magazine, so that it might be discussed here on the forum. BUT...
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Jim at BSME
Member
Yes and that metal framing at the aisle makes it NOT cantilevered. Just because the metal tubes allow for few vertical supports has nothing to do with whether the plywood is cantilevered or not. Places that might be cantilevered is edge of the steel mill and the peninsula I can't see where the horizontal metal tubing runs under those sections.
I tried to read the other thread, to see if you have pictures of the support under the peninsula, but a) its a long thread and b) there are lots of missing pictures at least in the first couple of pages.
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