Peeling Paint technique

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D

d_sinsley

Member
Hey as soon as my current loco project is done I am going to start on my recently aquired Jordan Spreader. The prorotype one I am modeling is heavely weathered and has alot of peeling paint. Is there a technique to doing actual peeling paint? I was thinking like the look that paint stripper givies it. Can an undercoat be sprayed say in enamel then oversprayed with acrylic and get just the acrylic to peel. If so how would you stop the reaction and seal it. I would like to shoot for real three dimensional peeling paint. Can it be done? Show examples if you can.

If this isn't do able then pass along some simulated peeling paint tech. with pictures please. I haven't come up with one my self that gives me what I am looking for.

Devon
 
I thought I came across a post of someone displaying their locomotive painting skills, and it had paint peeling on the roof. If I recall correctly, they used a spray bottle with water to mist the area then spray painted the area. Once the paint dried and the water evaporated it was further detailed with weathering. Looked pretty good, and I've been waiting for an opportunity to try this technique.
 
I've also used rubber cement to simulate flaked off paint rather than peeling. I know it is not what you asked but it may work well as another option. Just apply dabs and swipes of rubber cement, then paint the surface over top of it. Once dried you just rub off the rubber cement and presto bago, flaked off spots. Just be sure to prepaint your under coat colour or you will just have bald plastic spots lol.
 


I'd like to see the effects of the misting with water idea. That sounds interesting. As for the rubber cement I think this will be the back up option if I don't get what I am looking for. I have seen this and it looks very good. just doesn't have the texture.

I may be just asking to much. But its worth a shot. Anymore ides out there guys and girls.

Devon
 
There is a salt method also. Spray under coat with rust color..spray w/ water and sprinkle on salt...allow to dry and paint top coats over salt deposits. Once dried hard expose the salt brushing with tooth brush and even run under water to disolve salt piles gathered in areas creating trextured pealing paint. Can find some youtube videos on it.
 
That salt method is the ticket that gives a great textured look. I am not sure how much actual lifted paint there is left but the jagged random pattern is awsome. Between that and the rubber cement I am going to have to give them both a try. But just what I have seen the salt method is more of a rough look. The rubber cement look is a little smoother they both have their merits.

I am going to play on a practice piece and see which one works best fo what I am after.

Any other ideas?
 
One thing I learned is go easy on the salt. A little goes along way. At first I wanted to be sure it was noticeable and piled alot on. It turned into to big of a rust peel. (looked more like O scale than HO) Remember your working in "scale" a small rust corner you want to be small...don't end up it being the whole panel. Watch some videos and practice on cheap cars and scrap panels.
I am still learning this myself. Another good tip is to try and copy a rail car from a picture..Its like having instructions. Start with a easy weathering and step more and more into it. Study others work and save pictures you like to try and recreate. A picture gives you a plan and saves you from over doing it.
 
Trucula said:
Another good tip is to try and copy a rail car from a picture..Its like having instructions. Start with a easy weathering and step more and more into it. Study others work and save pictures you like to try and recreate. A picture gives you a plan and saves you from over doing it.
Click to expand...

This is great advice in general and it is exactly what I do. Since all of what I am doing is prototype replication I have tons of photos of the real deal. I only live about a half hour from the yard of St Maries River Railroad. For example the log flat project I just finished I have no less than fifty pictures of their flats for details far away, up close, different angles, super close looking at details. Each project has it's own seperate file to keep track of it all. Then I do my best to model what I see. I also keep pictures of whatever I find on the net of particular effects I like. and have a general file for painting detailing and weathering etc.

Its good advice and I do practice on scrap before trying a technique. I have several cheap cars that I play on to. do them strip them redo them.

This is what I like to do. layouts are secondary I like the modeling.
 
I for one would love to see any pictures of these techniques that someone has done on model trains. Always willing to try new things.
 


Have a look on here Devon, this particular thread is on ideas for peeling paint, but the whole site is a good resource for painting in general...
 
That's a hell of a good forum link Scordicus. Thanks for posting. Lots of inspiration there too. Weathering sure has come a long way from just being a way to hide mistakes ;-/ lol
 
lol, no worries bud.. I know what you mean tho, I haven't joined this particular one, I'm a member of enough forums already lol, but just as a bookmarked resource, it's rather handy...
 
Peel the Paint

My method I use,to achieve that look of peeling paint; the stuff my dad always had me scraping off and replacing with new paint. Now we want it, crave it, desire it. At least on our models. I do digress.
I will first put the grain of the wood in with wire brush, razor saw, etc. Then I will stain the wood with a good gray color. Usually with India Ink and alcohol. Then when that is dry, I will have a brush handy and a bottle of water base railroad paint, open and ready to go.
I will dip or brush on paint thinner, then before it has a chance to dry, I will swipe it down with a good coat of whatever waterbase color I want the surface to be. It is very important the thinner be wet when you apply the paint.
I will then force dry it. Apply another coat of paint thinner; (the wetter the better). Then I will brush on another coat of my waterbase color choice again. Then force dry again. Using scotch tape, I will place it over the painted surface and press it on with very little pressure. Then peel it off. Voila! A surface that my father would be proud to call upon me very quickly, to scrape and repaint! Enjoy!! I will try and add photos of this later. It is 3 dimensional and pleasing to the discerning eye!

OOPS,, wrong forum. You were wanting for loco's. My bad. But, it may work for loco's also. Give it a shot.
 
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I use to Model Cars for a sideline for friends back in the early 60's(I know!!I'm Old). They always wanted one to look like it was just retrieved from a Junkyard. For about 2 or 3 weeks I tried many ways until one day I sprayed Enamel & then just before it was completely dry I sprayed it w/Laquer. I used a Gloss paint in enamel & then sprayed it w/a flat black laquer. It was about 10 minutes before the paint started cracking like it was rusting before my eyes. I then stuck some masking tape on the top paint & peeled it back slow & it looked just like peeled paint. That was back when Synthetic Enamels were used & not acrylic enamels like we have today. Also, the Laquers were for hand rubbing a roadster to make it look 3 dimensional. I haven't tried it since then, but, this thread has given me the idea again. I'm going to try the idea on pcs. of slick plastic sign material & see what I can come up with.
 


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