Painting metal wheel faces

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Toolbelt

Well-Known Member
I've seen several YouTubes/comments/articles of people using straight acrylics to paint their wheels. I've made several attempts to paint two sets of metal wheels without success. I prepped the surfaces using acetone and alcohol. My first attempt was to apply straight acrylic, and it would peel off even if you looked at it wrong. I then tried applying a lacquer primer, then followed it up with acrylic 24 hrs later, which adhered only slightly better, although the bond is less than ideal. Should i try using enamel next?
 
I've seen several YouTubes/comments/articles of people using straight acrylics to paint their wheels. I've made several attempts to paint two sets of metal wheels without success. I prepped the surfaces using acetone and alcohol. My first attempt was to apply straight acrylic, and it would peel off even if you looked at it wrong. I then tried applying a lacquer primer, then followed it up with acrylic 24 hrs later, which adhered only slightly better, although the bond is less than ideal. Should i try using enamel next?
Does it already have paint on them (Not what you applied. Prior to that)? If so, you can MAYBE dye them. I just did this for a model. Just remeber that the color needs to be darker then the color on there.
 
Does it already have paint on them (Not what you applied. Prior to that)? If so, you can MAYBE dye them. I just did this for a model. Just remeber that the color needs to be darker then the color on there.
They are bare metal. The Blue Box loco wheels are just a dull looking metal and the other ones are much shinier so likely nickel silver. Another option I've heard of is to use a paint marker.
 


Use IPA on a brush and scrub clean the wheel faces. Let them air dry. When dry use your Acrylic mix and hand brush it

If that peels off your wheels are coated with something unusual.

Using the forum search function will also give you a few more cleaning solutions on wheel faces
 
Use IPA on a brush and scrub clean the wheel faces. Let them air dry. When dry use your Acrylic mix and hand brush it

If that peels off your wheels are coated with something unusual.

Using the forum search function will also give you a few more cleaning solutions on wheel faces
I used acetone, followed up with 99% IPA. They were clean as a whistle before trying straight acrylic, and then lacquer primer and acrylic. I was thinking of maybe priming with an enamel to see how that bond works. The one set is factory Athearn wheels so that's about as mainstream as it gets. I don't need them to be bullet proof but way better than flaking off just by sneezing in the room. lol
 
I used acetone, followed up with 99% IPA. They were clean as a whistle before trying straight acrylic, and then lacquer primer and acrylic. I was thinking of maybe priming with an enamel to see how that bond works. The one set is factory Athearn wheels so that's about as mainstream as it gets. I don't need them to be bullet proof but way better than flaking off just by sneezing in the room. lol
If the faces are clean as a whistle then it has to be something else.

What type of paint are you using? I know you said acrylic but what brand, if Vallejo what line?

I literally have painted hundreds of Athearn brand locomotives and thankfully have not encountered this issue.

But once those faces are clean any brand of acrylic SHOULD stick. I agree flaking is definitely unacceptable even if you don’t sneeze…
 
I use the Vallejo paint with no issues. I don't thin the paint either. The rim faces are usually not that rusted from going through switches.
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I do this on my N scale wheels, be they plastic or metal. It might not be suitable for HO scale:

I use pastel chalks. I grind up a mix for the desired shade of dirty/greasy brown, then I dab a brush in some 70% isopropyl alcohol, dip that in to the little pile of pastel dust, then paint it onto the wheel face.

It dries on quickly and uniformly, and leaves a great representative texture on the surface.

99% IPA evaporates too fast.

I don’t seal them with anything. (When N scale wheels get snapped back into the trucks, nothing is really getting in there. Well, if something does it’s a problem anyway.)
 


You could also try a cold-blue made by Birtchwood Casey. They also make a blackening agent, but it might be limited to use on aluminum and brass.

Either method would be very quick though. Just pour a bit into a plastic cup and dip each wheel, shake off the excess, and place on a paper towel to dry. It stinks so you'll have to use it outdoors unless you are single.
 




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