P2K wiring help

[AstroKnight]

I have a P2K GP30 that I took apart for maintenance, and I got it all back together fine. I didn’t separate any wires except for the black wires from the trucks leading to the 8-pin plug. Does anyone know which pin they go to?
I just need a simple explanation, not installing DCC in it just yet.
I didn’t think to take a picture since it was only 1 wire going to 1 place, but as I was putting it back together i noticed another open pin with no wires that might lead to it. I’ve tried both pins, but neither seem to work.

 

[J.Albert]

I have several Proto 2000 GP30's with the 8-pin wiring harness.

I like these harnesses as they make it easy to swap out for a dcc decoder.

I'm thinking the wiring for the harness is the same for BOTH DC and dcc.
That's why it's a VERY easy "swap" on these engines from DC to dcc -- just swap the light board underneath.

Here's how the wiring goes on the harness. It looks like you already have the right colors for the wires.

NOTE: you may need to "ream out" holes 4, 7, and 8 a little.
That's because they take TWO wires at each location.

Another tip (involves soldering):
I "prepare" the ends of the wires by stripping off a little extra insulation. Then I "hand twist" the stranded wire ends, dip it into soldering paste, and "tin" the ends of the wires. I usually have 8-10mm as a starting point. Trim back as needed.

Then I insert the wires "from the bottom up" into the tabs. I get a good amount of "free" wire sticking out the top, and then carefully bend it over the tip of the tab, and then back underneath.

Then I put the plastic/rubber retainer back on (with the "open side" facing down).
Having the wire on BOTH sides of the tab seems to result in a tighter fit.

Some guys will say "solder all the connections". I prefer NOT to. Reason is -- makes it a lot easier to get apart again, if you need to get "in there".

EDIT:
Here's what one of the GP30's looks like with a small postage-stamp sized NON-sound decoder fitted, with the shell just about ready to go back on (needs some tape applied here and there for insulation, ect.):

 

[AstroKnight]

I have several Proto 2000 GP30's with the 8-pin wiring harness.

I like these harnesses as they make it easy to swap out for a dcc decoder.

I'm thinking the wiring for the harness is the same for BOTH DC and dcc.
That's why it's a VERY easy "swap" on these engines from DC to dcc -- just swap the light board underneath.

Here's how the wiring goes on the harness. It looks like you already have the right colors for the wires.
View attachment 232775

NOTE: you may need to "ream out" holes 4, 7, and 8 a little.
That's because they take TWO wires at each location.

Another tip (involves soldering):
I "prepare" the ends of the wires by stripping off a little extra insulation. Then I "hand twist" the stranded wire ends, dip it into soldering paste, and "tin" the ends of the wires. I usually have 8-10mm as a starting point. Trim back as needed.

Then I insert the wires "from the bottom up" into the tabs. I get a good amount of "free" wire sticking out the top, and then carefully bend it over the tip of the tab, and then back underneath.

Then I put the plastic/rubber retainer back on (with the "open side" facing down).
Having the wire on BOTH sides of the tab seems to result in a tighter fit.

Some guys will say "solder all the connections". I prefer NOT to. Reason is -- makes it a lot easier to get apart again, if you need to get "in there".

EDIT:
Here's what one of the GP30's looks like with a small postage-stamp sized NON-sound decoder fitted, with the shell just about ready to go back on (needs some tape applied here and there for insulation, ect.):
View attachment 232783

Thank you so much

 

[AstroKnight]

I have several Proto 2000 GP30's with the 8-pin wiring harness.

I like these harnesses as they make it easy to swap out for a dcc decoder.

I'm thinking the wiring for the harness is the same for BOTH DC and dcc.
That's why it's a VERY easy "swap" on these engines from DC to dcc -- just swap the light board underneath.

Here's how the wiring goes on the harness. It looks like you already have the right colors for the wires.
View attachment 232775

NOTE: you may need to "ream out" holes 4, 7, and 8 a little.
That's because they take TWO wires at each location.

Another tip (involves soldering):
I "prepare" the ends of the wires by stripping off a little extra insulation. Then I "hand twist" the stranded wire ends, dip it into soldering paste, and "tin" the ends of the wires. I usually have 8-10mm as a starting point. Trim back as needed.

Then I insert the wires "from the bottom up" into the tabs. I get a good amount of "free" wire sticking out the top, and then carefully bend it over the tip of the tab, and then back underneath.

Then I put the plastic/rubber retainer back on (with the "open side" facing down).
Having the wire on BOTH sides of the tab seems to result in a tighter fit.

Some guys will say "solder all the connections". I prefer NOT to. Reason is -- makes it a lot easier to get apart again, if you need to get "in there".

EDIT:
Here's what one of the GP30's looks like with a small postage-stamp sized NON-sound decoder fitted, with the shell just about ready to go back on (needs some tape applied here and there for insulation, ect.):
View attachment 232783

All the wires are attached properly, but it’s still not working. Is there anything else I should check?