Older Athearn to DCC conversion

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david_in_kansas

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Good day to everyone...I am brand new here...first post...I have an older Athearn Loco that was bought new in 93 and has been stored for 29 years. I would like recommendations for brand and model for anyone who has converted...recommended DCC power supply and controller and conversion chip. I plan on adding new locos at a later date, so I would like to get a system that will be useful for a few years and upgrades. Thanks for any help or advice you can provide. I am fairly decent with a soldering iron and have a small machine shop to make parts as needed.
 
There was a very recent thread about what DCC system to buy. Has a lot of good information in it.
As for converting your Athearn loco to DCC, the main thing is you will have to isolate the motor from the frame so there is no electrical path to it. The motor can only have electrical connection to the decoder, whatever brand you decide on.
Here is the link to the which DCC system thread.

modelrailroadforums.com

Choosing a DCC System

Currently using Bachman’s EZ Command Dynamis system. While it does make the locos move and make noise, it seems that’s about the extent of it. Without buying a $500 additional piece of equipment that is not even produced until it is justified to do so by enough names on a waiting list I am...
modelrailroadforums.com modelrailroadforums.com
 


david_in_kansas said:
I have an older Athearn Loco that was bought new in 93 and has been stored for 29 years. I would like recommendations for brand and model for anyone who has converted..
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Probably the most common conversion in DCC history. "Hardest" part is isolating the bottom motor contact from the frame. Brand of decoder depends on which model of loco one is talking about.
 
@Iron Horseman is correct! I used electrical tape on the frame to isolate the bottom motor contact. I recommend two layers of tape. Adding the decoder is not too difficult. I would hardwire the connections on top of the trucks (and the lights) and remove the metal contact rail so it is more secure and reliable. There are DCC decoder-ready boards from Athearn which are really useful in converting older DC locomotives to DCC.
 
Ditto, I too used black electrical tape to make sure the motor was isolated. I also removed the piece of steel that ran from the trucks to the motor and soldered feeders to the trucks.
 
I find a thin piece of plasticard glued over the plate works too, and as timlange3 said, solder the feeders to the trucks. As D&J also replied, the discussion we had only a few days ago, has lot's of information that will help decide on which system suits your needs.
 
I go to the recycle bin. Find thin strong plastic and cut a shape to fit in the frame, and cut holes for the motor mounts.
A semi-permanent isolation, unlike paint or rubber tape;
Look closely at the frame, also notice the spring tabs cut off the motor bottom.

DCC conversion 1.JPG
 


dennis461 said:
I go to the recycle bin. Find thin strong plastic and cut a shape to fit in the frame, and cut holes for the motor mounts.
A semi-permanent isolation, unlike paint or rubber tape;
Look closely at the frame, also notice the spring tabs cut off the motor bottom.

View attachment 140223
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Looks good to me, I normally solder a feeder to one end of the bottom spring at this point, more so I don't forget to do it, which I've done before.
Are you fitting a decoder board, or hard wiring a decoder ?
 
I am hard wiring....just now setting up to run dc....after a bit of run in and lubricating I will go for a DCC, I am starting with a 4 x 8 board...is plywood with a piece of foam still a good platform for starting up ?
 
david_in_kansas said:
I am hard wiring....just now setting up to run dc....after a bit of run in and lubricating I will go for a DCC, I am starting with a 4 x 8 board...is plywood with a piece of foam still a good platform for starting up
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Foam will melt and catch fire if it gets too hot, same problem with wood not a lot of ventilation in these loco's so not a good idea. Simpler to fit a board and black tak it to the top spring. (Black tak is a good insulator as well) Or you can use a directional lighting board, ($7+-) That gives you the option to add lights and decoder later,(comes with a blanking plate, so can only run on DC till you plug a decoder in) or fit a decoder board and you can add lights if you want later on.(but it wont run on DC)
There is a third option, which is to fit a wiring harness, one end is wires the other end has a 8 pin socket for the decoder, but it won't run unless you fit a decoder(DCC) or a blanking plate.(DC) If you go the harness route just follow the NMRA colour standard to fit. Orange&Grey go to motor Black and Red to pickups.
If you dont want to any of the above, connect the truck feeders to either end of the top spring, and the bottom motor feeder to the chassis.
 
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Smudge617 said:
Foam will melt and catch fire if it gets too hot, same problem with wood not a lot of ventilation in these loco's so not a good idea. Simpler to fit a board and black tak it to the top spring. (Black tak is a good insulator as well) Or you can use a directional lighting board, ($7+-) That gives you the option to add lights and decoder later,(comes with a blanking plate, so can only run on DC till you plug a decoder in) or fit a decoder board and you can add lights if you want later on.(but it wont run on DC)
There is a third option, which is to fit a wiring harness, one end is wires the other end has a 8 pin socket for the decoder, but it won't run unless you fit a decoder(DCC) or a blanking plate.(DC) If you go the harness route just follow the NMRA colour standard to fit. Orange&Grey go to motor Black and Red to pickups.
If you dont want to any of the above, connect the truck feeders to either end of the top spring, and the bottom motor feeder to the chassis.
Click to expand...
 
The foam of decades ago was a fire risk. The blue foam board that ya can get at Lowes is next to impossible to set fire to unless ya actually threw it into the fire pit.
You'll find that using foam board that your track nails will pull up real easy. At the end of your frustration you'll realize you should have just gone with a heavy plywood sheet of at least 15/32. Preferably 3/4" to keep from warping. You'll also need to support it with some framework to keep it from bowing.
 
D&J RailRoad said:
The foam of decades ago was a fire risk. The blue foam board that ya can get at Lowes is next to impossible to set fire to unless ya actually threw it into the fire pit.
You'll find that using foam board that your track nails will pull up real easy. At the end of your frustration you'll realize you should have just gone with a heavy plywood sheet of at least 15/32. Preferably 3/4" to keep from warping. You'll also need to support it with some framework to keep it from bowing.
Click to expand...
thanks....I was wondering if the foam was useful...think I will go with 3/4 plywood with a 2x4 frame with extra reinforcing ribs..
 
david_in_kansas said:
thanks....I was wondering if the foam was useful...think I will go with 3/4 plywood with a 2x4 frame with extra reinforcing ribs..
Click to expand...
Im glad I misunderstood that bit.
The foam is handy for creating contours like rock walls, canyons or embankments to add to your layout as it's easy to cut and sculpt.
Pinning you track to a board, personally I think, is better than glueing, which if you used a foam board is the only realistic way to stop the track from moving, (some will disagree) and some ideas may not work so re laying of the track is required, easier to remove a few pins than spend half an hour un glueing your track.
 


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