I read the same article its DCC friendly and looks to be pretty simple. I was planning to go that route but its at lest a year or two down the line let me know how it works.
Has anyone taken a stab at building one of these?
I was thinking of something like it to indicate that a yard line is occupied.
Only real difference is I want to use a bi-color LED - no biggee at all to accommodate that.
E.
there are some errors in the schematics of that article, such as the way the relay contacts are wired across the relay coil in fig-4, that would cause a short, possibly burning out Q2. Fig-7 is correct.
A smaller (<$$) capacitor could be used if it were placed between R2 and ground (-9VDC) instead of across the relay. The capacitor discharges through the relay the relay to delay it from intermittently switching off. If wired from R2, its voltage would keep the transistor, Q2, on when there are intermittent breaks in the beam.
Since this is an optical detector, I don't understand why they describe it as DCC friendly. It doesn't depend on whether the track is DC or DCC.
Relays, more so double pole relays are big and at least a few $$. A better (<$$) designed circuit would switch two transistors to control the LEDs. The relay and diode could be replaced with an LED and resistor, if you just want a lamp indicating occupancy.
the trade off with embedding an optical detector in the track the way they describe is that it only detects the presence of something over that spot on the track. An alternative would be mount a photo detector and light (or infra-red LED) source above and on opposite sides of the track at an angle such that the light path is horizontal and crosses a large length of track. Anything breaking the path would be detected.
Electrical detectors would detect the locomotive or anything drawing current (e.g. car with LED or trucks with resistors) inside the block.
the relay coil voltage dictates the supply voltage. But the voltage can be less restrictive by replacing the diode and relay with an LED and resistor. I assume a wall-wart is used to provide power
If you insist on using track voltage, a single diode and capacitor (half-wave rectifier) is probably sufficient. If the relay is not used, the capacitor is probably not needed and the LED resistor value can be halved.
I build Rob Paisley's transformer based detector
do you have proto board to experiment with (look on ebay) and a DC wall-wart for power (<15)?
The schematic in the mag is wrong - as mentioned.
Also specifying +9/-9 is a bit confusing as the author likely means the circuit should be powered by 9 VDC (volts DC), with the polarity shown.
The circuit is "DCC friendly" only in that it is not connected to the track power in anyway. So this type of circuit would work with AC, DC or DCC powered track or even un-powered track.
There are basically two types of detectors.
There are "point" detectors like this which tell if if something located at a certain spot on the track, in this case when something is blocking light to the sensor.
Then there are "occupancy" detectors which rely on detecting current being drawn by something on the track. Occupancy detectors obviously will respond to a current drawing loco/car/etc anywhere in the section of track that is connected to the detector.
For your stated application an occupancy detector would be preferred over a point detector UNLESS you can always be sure that when the section of track is occupied something will end up parked over the sensor.
Well..... my application isn't concerned with passing traffic. I just want to indicate red or green that a yard line is occupied or not.
Understood but what is your definition of "occupied"? Is it guaranteed that when occupied something will always be over the sensor?
instead of a relay, you can used the voltage on the one LED to drive a 2nd LED circuit when the first LED path isn't grounded thru the resistor. Only one LED is on at a timeIf you have a better and/or modified circuit, please do share.
two LEDs are only needed for track signals. If all you need is a panel indicator, the 2nd LED circuit (R4, Q4, R1 and D1) isn't needed.
bench tested a circuit supplied from DCC track voltage. I measured 22 ma with the LED lit.
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