Not mine, but a great layout

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That is so well done, thanks for posting the link.

Here's some specs that we in the first comment

RCModelMB - Home Model Railway HO Scale 1/87 (cca 16m2).
Train with sound unite.
Digital Systems Lenz
Length of railway track (Fleischmann) is more than 230 meters (65 railway switches) and length of the railway station is six meters.
Maximum throughput is 12 trains.
More than 1,100 figures (most Preiser).
Nine models of steel bridges and a stone viaduct.
More than 1,000 different species of trees and many shrubs.
Locomotives and wagons by Roco, Piko, ESP, Bramos, Fleischmann....

Czech Republic, Mladá Boleslav, Sovinky.
Record to 1x Full HD Camera SONY HDR-TG3 and 2x mini cameras.
 
Thought you guys would like to see this.

Whoever did this is a true master, don't know if it is a club layout or not, but beautiful work.

Thanks!

It seems to be a home layout (a German prototype?) of ~16m2 [~170 sq ft in old money.]

I stayed with it 'cos I enjoy a well done PIP and the tiny cameras used - Very cool! - Syncing multiple feeds can be a royal PITA. [Don't ask ;)]

However, my 02c of comments - I'd love to hear the thoughts of others.....

- The steamer sound seems to me (and I'm no expert!) to be about 50% too fast..... I dunno, but think I want my steamers to be "working hard" (?)

- Those are some tight turns! It handles it well (Marklin maybe?), but my impression is that nobody here would allow anything close to that tight......

- The "purists" will scoff that it's a spaghetti bowl :) I've only watched once so far, but I'm pretty sure it traverses the same area, going in different directions, on a few occasions...... That seems to be a big "no-no" with many "modern" designs.....

I love it! :) Thanks again,
Cheers,
Ian
 


That is so well done, thanks for posting the link.

+1 - I just watched it again, and it's even better :)

If he didn't keep moving the PIP around the screen, it would even better yet IMHO.

DD - Thanks for the specs - I don't even want to think what 1100 Preiser figures cost :eek:

Cheers,
Ian
 
- The "purists" will scoff that it's a spaghetti bowl :) I've only watched once so far, but I'm pretty sure it traverses the same area, going in different directions, on a few occasions...... That seems to be a big "no-no" with many "modern" designs.....

Well, you know I'm no stranger to being scoffed at and if my layout turns out even half as good, I'll be estatic. :)

As for sound, I'm going to have a listen again, I didn't pay that much attention to it the first time. I already know I have a lot of research ahead of me when I start buying locos. I have absolutely no experience at all with sound, much less with N-Scale sound, and I hope I'm not in for a big disappointment.
 
I think it is well done, both video and layout. The lighting is certainly good. Nice engine and cars!

The chuff rate set in the decoder is about two-thirds or three quarters of the speed it should be. At the rate of driver revolutions we see about 40 seconds after start-up (which was a very optimistic acceleration rate, by the way...:eek:) the chuffs should be sounding nearly once more per driver rev.
 
Well, you know I'm no stranger to being scoffed at and if my layout turns out even half as good, I'll be estatic. :)

+1 Same here! I can feel one (or two :eek:) of those micro-cams in my (distant!) future though.

... I have absolutely no experience at all with sound, much less with N-Scale sound, and I hope I'm not in for a big disappointment.

Dunno about N, and I only have one sound (QSI) equipped loco, but my (limited) understanding is even N can sound good these days - The main thing is the speaker enclosure apparently....

I think it is well done, both video and layout. The lighting is certainly good. Nice engine and cars!

Totally agree!

The chuff rate set in the decoder is about two-thirds or three quarters of the speed it should be. At the rate of driver revolutions we see about 40 seconds after start-up (which was a very optimistic acceleration rate, by the way...:eek:) the chuffs should be sounding nearly once more per driver rev.

Wow! Thanks. Learn something every day :)

Cheers,
Ian
PS, I chuckled at your "optimistic acceleration rate" comment - Indeed! :)
 
Each cylinder chuffs twice during a single revolution of the driver, once for the front stroke and once for the back stroke. The main crank on the other side of the locomotive if 90 degrees either forward or lagging the crank on the engineer's side, depending on the railroad's preferences. So it's valve is halfway through its travel between the two ports, and it won't allow a chuff until the right-hand side valve is itself halfway through a cycle. The net effect is a staccato of chuffs separated by even time gaps, and they should be distinguishable as four separate chuffs, four per revolution of any one driver on either side of the engine.

You can rehearse the 'beat' in your mind by watching when the main crank comes to a defined point, say bottom dead center, and begining to count with a changing pace until you can maintain a synchronized beat in your head to match four beats with the crank returning each time to bottom dead center. Once you learn to do this, you'll have a hard time not rolling your eyes at all the older 16 mm steamer film now on video and DVD when you can clearly tell it is dubbed, and not with a steamer moving at the same pace.

For those with a Tsunami decoder, CV116 is the one you want to set the chuff rate. It unfortunately changes a bit with a cold locomotive versus one that has been warmed with use for maybe 10 minutes. But you should get the engine moving at speed step 10, let it warm up a bit on a loop, and then enter Ops Mode, dial in CV116, and I would start with a value near 145 and work your way up until you can count four chuffs for each full circle of the main crank.

Hint: when the range of possible values for a CV in a given decoder is large, often at 255 for a highest value, it is not worth changing your inputs when you are fiddling with them by values less than about 20 when you first start. Soon, you will deduce that you have overshot the ideal value. When this happens, use an old artillery trick. Halve the last added amount and deduct that from the current setting. Often that is all it takes to get really close. And in the artillery, which is an area weapon, close counts....a lot! ;)
 




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