Newbie question on DCC

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OgreMike said:
The plan for the Oregon Pass Lines calls for 3 bridges, all in sequence, to cross a gorge which has both sides of the mainline going underneath them. The two Warrens sandwich a deck truss bridge to cover a gap of 27 inches. All 3 are supported by 4 Atlas bridge piers. Don’t know if you’ve ever viewed the plan as published, but it’s Layout HO-36 in the Atlas King Size book. The book is available online for about $17 US. I’ll post some photos today. Got a lot done yesterday including insulating some drafty top reaches of the train room with some expanding spray foam whilst on a ladder! 😅 Also put in some shop lights. My old bones are achy today, but I got it done. Even managed to lay some more of the mainline. Might finish the mainline today. 😅 Mike
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I forgot that there’s actually a 4th bridge. There’s a 9 inch girder plate bridge covering a stream in the gorge which is on the mainline and almost directly under one of the Warrens above.
 
OgreMike said:
I forgot that there’s actually a 4th bridge. There’s a 9 inch girder plate bridge covering a stream in the gorge which is on the mainline and almost directly under one of the Warrens above.
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That's a lot of bridges to build, you'll be an expert bridge builder by the time your done.
I haven't seen the plan book you mention, but from the one's I've seen I don't have the space, maybe one day. :)
 
Smudge617 said:
That's a lot of bridges to build, you'll be an expert bridge builder by the time your done.
I haven't seen the plan book you mention, but from the one's I've seen I don't have the space, maybe one day. :)
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It’s 12 feet by 8 feet, L shape to fit in a corner. More specifically, a 5x8 side attached at one end to a 4x8 side. If space is a limitation for you, you’re wise to be in N Scale.👍 my little train room affords me only 14 x11. I considered N, but I wanted to follow an exact plan that took up most of the space for my first venture.
 


OgreMike said:
It’s 12 feet by 8 feet, L shape to fit in a corner. More specifically, a 5x8 side attached at one end to a 4x8 side. If space is a limitation for you, you’re wise to be in N Scale.👍 my little train room affords me only 14 x11. I considered N, but I wanted to follow an exact plan that took up most of the space for my first venture.
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As I said I started in OO Scale, to change to N scale wasn't on the cards for me, I'd collected a fair few OO scale locomotives over the years, to swap to N scale would mean losing all my UK steam and as there not many produced in that scale it would mean having European steam.

As someone who many years ago rode and worked on such locomotives as Flying Scotsman, Mallard and Sir Nigel Gresley, losing those models wasn't going to happen, and no point in having them if I can't run them, I really ended up in American HO by chance rather than choice.
 
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Hello again everyone. Question on a slightly different topic . . . do any of you experience derailing of your longer rolling stock (ie, passenger cars with extended length wheel trucks) when these cars run across the points of a turnout which occurs just after a curve (ie, very little, if any, straight track leading up to the turnout?) I have a long passenger car which is continually catching its flange on such a turnout point and coming off the rails. Only solution I can see is to rip up the track right before the turnout and try to piece in a short straight section in order to straighten out the truck before its front wheels hit the point(s). Either that, or perhaps the truck is in need of replacement? Are replacement trucks for rolling stock sold? Comments most definitely welcome. BTW, Happy New Year everybody! Thanks! Mike
 
OgreMike said:
Hello again everyone. Question on a slightly different topic . . . do any of you experience derailing of your longer rolling stock (ie, passenger cars with extended length wheel trucks) when these cars run across the points of a turnout which occurs just after a curve (ie, very little, if any, straight track leading up to the turnout?) I have a long passenger car which is continually catching its flange on such a turnout point and coming off the rails. Only solution I can see is to rip up the track right before the turnout and try to piece in a short straight section in order to straighten out the truck before its front wheels hit the point(s). Either that, or perhaps the truck is in need of replacement? Are replacement trucks for rolling stock sold? Comments most definitely welcome.
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First thing I would check is the wheels' gauges in the truck.

Then I would ask:
are these body mount or truck mount couplers?
is the car in question the first one after the locomotive? Sometimes a short car or locomotive coupled to a long car can cause this sort of a problem. Happens in real railroads too. Solution is to put an intermediate length car between the two.

Yes, there are many options for replacement trucks. What brand/model are we talking about here?

Finally, my personal preference is to always have a short straight before the points. At least the length of the longest truck.
 
Iron Horseman said:
And a side note. If you are really going to be using DCC, it would be in your best interest to get/make a meter designed for DCC. I have the RRAMP Meter by DCC Specialists.
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I will probably be bugging you again for tips as well Iron Horseman as I now have a DCC power supply as well.....lol.

Iron Horseman, do you know if the matte medium works well with the foam roadbed as well?
 
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Iron Horseman said:
First thing I would check is the wheels' gauges in the truck.

Then I would ask:
are these body mount or truck mount couplers?
is the car in question the first one after the locomotive? Sometimes a short car or locomotive coupled to a long car can cause this sort of a problem. Happens in real railroads too. Solution is to put an intermediate length car between the two.

Yes, there are many options for replacement trucks. What brand/model are we talking about here?

Finally, my personal preference is to always have a short straight before the points. At least the length of the longest truck.
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Thanks Iron. All sage advice as per usual. I hate to tear up the track in advance of the turnout to add a short straight, but we’ll see. Live and learn. Thanks! FYI, I decided on a Digitrax Evolution Express system. Probably way more than I need, but it caught my eye with all its capabilities and upgrade potential. I’ve pretty much finished the mainline. Have used some terminal rail joiners for leads. Also have soldered them for permanence and better connections. Have also put in a few of my own direct soldered wire connections. Tedium, but lots of fun! 😊✅. Also decided to make the lower end of the layout into 2 reverse loops as suggested earlier (by Iron Horseman, I believe). And there’ll be another on the top end, and then one more with the turntable. Going to be using a pair of PM-74s from Digitrax to handle all the loops and the power districts. Lots to do and to fix. Thanks all!
 
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