Newbie layout help (HO Scale)

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mjolson5

New Member
I'm brand new to this hobby and need some inspiration. I've got a pretty limited space: 9' x 8' corner. The real problem is that I can't come out too far - only about 3' on the edges of the corner (I might be able to come out a bit farther). I would like a continuous loop if possible.

I was originally going to throw a 4 x 8 in the area but it would have to be up against the back and side wall which would make it difficult to work with. I was thinking some kind of a doughnut layout with one side "squashed", or maybe a dogbone type layout. Any ideas?

thanks in advance!
Mike
 
Hmm, let's see here. You don't have enough room for a dogbone. You would need a 4'x4' square on each end for the loops.

I would shoot for a doughnut, with a lift out or duck under bridge along the front edge. And operate from the inside.

We need to know what equipment, era, and type of operations you want to run. With a doughnut shape you might be able fit 22" - 24" radius curves. I would stay away from 18" radius.
 
I might be able to squeak out the 4' x 4' ends but it's going to take some convincing the better half :) I like the idea of the duck-under doughnut though.

I haven't really nailed down the theme yet. All I have at this point is a starter set that my wife got me for Christmas. It's a Spectrum 2-8-0 and some passenger cars. I also have a 2nd hand Power Cab so I'd like to jump right into DCC. That's it so far! I like the concept of 40's era passenger service but I know I probably don't have ideal space for decent curves. Is that going to look ridiculous on 22-24" curves?
 


I have 24" curves and I run excursion passenger trains with 80' Pullman Streamliners. I had to add Kadee #26 long shank couplers. While it doesn't look great on the curves, they look sexy on the straights. Also viewing the passenger consist from the inside is better. So you're not seeing the gaps in the diaphrams.

With the doughnut and operating from the middle you should be able to get 24" to 28" curves. And use #6 switches. I think that would be best for what your looking for. You could add a nice passenger station on the far side against the walls, and a couple of coach yard tracks. That would be a nice little passenger operations layout.

The duckunder could be a river bridge scene, and one of the corners could be a small mountain tunnel.

I would try to get a little bit more real estate from the CEO.;)
 
mjolson5 said:
I'm brand new to this hobby and need some inspiration. I've got a pretty limited space: 9' x 8' corner. The real problem is that I can't come out too far - only about 3' on the edges of the corner (I might be able to come out a bit farther). I would like a continuous loop if possible.

I was originally going to throw a 4 x 8 in the area but it would have to be up against the back and side wall which would make it difficult to work with. I was thinking some kind of a doughnut layout with one side "squashed", or maybe a dogbone type layout. Any ideas?

thanks in advance!
Mike
Click to expand...

Welcome.

Michael has provided you with some great information and advice so far. I hope I can help too.

The biggest challenge is working the sharpish curves into the space, combined with longish passenger cars.

I would make a D shaped layout. If you keep the sharper curves at the top and bottom corners, you could conceal each with short tunnels. That way, the passenger train would only be seen along the front straght section and the back swooping curved section. In addition to concealing the sharpness of the curves, the tunnels can serve as scenic separators between the front and back scenes. You don't need to conceal the curves 100%, just along the apex of the curves is really needed.

Getting extra space to accommodate 4x4 blobs may not be that effective. Having two 4x4 blobs close together is probably going to result in a layout that has nothing but sharp curves, which wouldn't be that great for a passenger train layout. If you go for that shape of a layout, I would by some coal hoppers. A 2-8-0 pulling 8 to 10 shortish coal cars would look good snaking through 24 inch radius curves.

If you pick up extr real estate, you might consider a long shelf along one wall for a small switching district thats outside of the pit. If you build you layout at 53inches rail height, with 3/4 sub roadbed, plus 2.5 inch vertical 1x3 support, plus shelf brackets, would allow you to fit 48 inch book shelves under the layout. Maybe your wife would be more accommodating if she knew the extra layout shelf wouldn't encroach on the useable space of the room.

In any event, your Bachmann 2-8-0 has the reputation of being a very good locomotive. Your wife made a good choice.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
mjolson5 said:
Thanks for the advice guys - I think a "D" it shall be! Now off to learn a bit about benchwork...
Click to expand...

Whoa buddy. Learning as much as you can about benchwork is great, but we haven't really determined if a doughnut will even fit that well. You might have to go with a D and just have an access hatch in the middle. Your layout is small enough that you can probably lay some track or templates of track on the floor of the space to determine what will work the best.
 
Doughless said:
Whoa buddy. Learning as much as you can about benchwork is great, but we haven't really determined if a doughnut will even fit that well. You might have to go with a D and just have an access hatch in the middle. Your layout is small enough that you can probably lay some track or templates of track on the floor of the space to determine what will work the best.
Click to expand...

Ok, maybe I'm getting ahead of myself a bit. Templates sound like a good idea before I invest too much in track.
 
Hi,

Is there any chance you could get a foot wide and a few feet long in the locations shown below? - You could even "give back" a little of the front edge in return.....

If yes, I think there's something in Armstrongs book that might work well - I'll try and find it.

Cheers,
Ian
 


fast_ian said:
Hi,

Is there any chance you could get a foot wide and a few feet long in the locations shown below? - You could even "give back" a little of the front edge in return.....

If yes, I think there's something in Armstrongs book that might work well - I'll try and find it.

Cheers,
Ian
Click to expand...

Max on the top wall is 9' 8". On the right side I might be able to go up to 9-10' if the front edge can collapse a bit.
 
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