New HO scale switching layout

[Howard1975]

Hello I have just joined, and I'm thinking about building a HO scale switching layout, I'm considering making it around 30 inch by 72 inch in size. That is the size of my table I will be using, it's a table with folding legs, situated in my bedroom. I will be putting some blue or pink foam on top of the table, and building the layout on that. I'm living in an apartment, so I don't have lot's of space available for a layout. I had a layout many years ago, that my dad and myself built, when I was 10 years old in 1985. It was the typical HO scale layout on a 4 foot by 8 foot plywood and benchwork. Anyway that was 40 years ago in 1985. I'm now 50 years old, and want to build a HO scale point to point switching layout on the 30 by 72 inch table. I'm an American living in the United States.

I have two Athearn Blue Box EMD SW-1500 powered diesel locomotives, one Athearn Blue Box EMD DD40 powered diesel, one Tyco (Mantua) 0-6-0 Steam Tank Engine powered kit, and a few dummy locomotives. Anyway I have three powered diesel locomotives, and one 0-6-0 steam engine that is waiting to be assembled. Everything else is just dummies, or powered units that were converted into dummies. Most of these items I bought used at hobby shops, or online at eBay.

I have a couple MRC Tech 2 DC power packs, about 25 to 30 freight cars (mostly 40 or 50 foot MDC Roundhouse and Athearn Blue Box kits), and over 125 pieces of code 100 HO scale sectional track. The track is mostly Atlas brand, but there is also a few other brands of track included. It's all code 100 sectional track, a combination of nickle silver, brass, and some steel track from Bachmann. I have about 15 regular turnouts (switches) most are Atlas snap switches, but a few are the Atlas custom line turnouts. Also have a few brass turnouts made in Japan, they look similar to Atlas snap switches. I also have over 30 turnout kits from Tru-Scale, they are from the 1950's, 1960's or 1970's. They need to be assembled, they are just the rails, frogs and points. Need to be spiked to wood ties. Most of my track is brass. Yes I know many people will recommend that I throw away the brass track, or sell it. And get new nickle silver track. In my humble opinion brass track works fine, but I admit, it usually needs to be cleaned more often. Anyway I already own it, and it's in good condition.

Assuming I build a HO scale layout, I will be using both of the Athearn SW-1500 switchers. I have considered going to N scale, S scale, O-27 scale 3 rail trains like Lionel and Marx, Marklin 3 rail HO scale trains, and also narrow gauges such as HOn30 or On30. But I think doing regular HO scale would be the best for my circumstances, and I have the most experience with HO scale, going back 40 years. I'm 50 years old, my eyesight is not as good as it was, when I was younger. It's hard to see the N scale trains well enough to do maintenance, adding details parts and decals, manual uncoupling the Micro-Trains couplers, etc. It's a lot easier for me to work on and see my HO scale trains. If I decided to do On30, I think O scale buildings would be too big, but I know there are some small 4 wheel On30 narrow gauge trains. HO scale buildings and scenery are smaller compared to O scale. But I have a lot more equipment in N scale then HO scale. I have about 15 powered N scale locomotives, about 100 freight cars, and more N scale track overall. But I'm concerned that I will not be able to see and handle the equipment as I get older. I'm already 50 years old. Sometimes I think about doing On30 narrow gauge (On30 is using HO guage track, locomotive mechanisms, wheels and couplers in O scale), to model narrow gauge. It would be easier to see and handle everything, and I could customize my equipment more. But whatever I do, I will like to freelance, instead of follow any particular railroad. I'm also on a budget, and living in an apartment. And truth be told, I'm more interested in vintage trains made long ago, instead of the latest and greatest DCC and sound locomotives. With my HO scale trains I'm perfectly happy with code 100 track, Athearn Blue Box locomotives and freight cars, and using MRC DC power packs.

What do you all recommend? Yes I'm well aware it's my final decision to make, it's my money, and my hobby. I'm the person that needs to enjoy whatever I build. But I do value suggestions and advice, and any constructive critism, as long as you're friendly and it's helpful advice. Sometimes I consider selling my N scale trains, and focusing on just HO scale. Or I could keep my N scale trains for a small oval type layout, and build a point to point HO scale switching layout with body mounted Kadee couplers. Until I get mesmerized by some of those On30 layouts on YouTube.

I do not own any buildings, none. I don't own any On30 trains, none. My collection is mostly regular N and HO scale track, locomotives, freight cars, and a few DC power packs. Whaterever scale and gauge combination I decide to use, I will need to buy the buildings, automobiles for the roads, people, animals, trees, and other scenic items. But overall I don't know what to do, I have a hard time making a decision choosing a scale to model in, and if I want to do narrow gauge, or regular trains. I'm kinda thinking using regular HO scale trains would be best. And build a point to point switching layout on my 30 by 72 inch table.

 

[Marlin39]

O scale whether it's On30 or On3 will take up 2x the space of HO. On30 is expensive and limited unless you do a lot of expensive scratch building. HOn30 is extremely limited also. I've modeled in both n30 scales and am glad to be done with them.

Stay will standard gauge HO. The MRR manufacturers pretty much are focusing on it and just build a 1-3 industry layout. Keep it simple. I have a 2'x13' switching layout with 4 switches and industries.

 

[trailrider]

Sounds like you already have figured that HO scale is the best for you. You can certainly come up with a nice point-to-point swtiching layout. Lay out the tracks either using cardboard or paper strips or using some of your actual trackwork, as available. Make some templates for trackside industries to see where they could go. Buildings could either be kits or you can scratch-build them. Let us know what you decide and keep us informed. Don't be afraid to ask questions.

 

[Guilford Railman]

Welcome aboard!

Sounds like you’ve got some ideas already of what you’re looking for. Switching layouts are a lot of fun!

I would suggest trying a free layout design program such as SCARM to play around with layout ideas using the space you have before you begin building. You can also practice operating trains to make sure you like the operations side of things.

Looking forward to seeing your progress!

 

[Howard1975]

Thank you everyone for all of the replies. I agree that standard HO scale is cheaper compared to On30, or HOn30, and standard HO has a lot more equipment available (locomotives, freight cars, passenger cars) then any of the narrow gauges. Narrow gauge is a lot more limited in the trains available and proper looking track. Standard HO scale definitely has the largest amount and variety of locomotives, freight and passenger cars, and buildings, different types of track available, automobiles, etc. Standard HO is bigger and more forgiving then HOn30 or HOn3 equipment. And HO scale buildings take up far less space then O scale buildings.

I think for the time being I will stay with standard HO scale, and model a fictional freelanced railroad (so I can still customize my equipment), and it will be a short line railroad. I will be using my two Athearn Blue Box SW-1500 switchers, although I might strip the paint, and repaint them for my own freelanced railroad. Or I might do a simple patch job, to cover up the original railroad name. I can explain that my little short line railroad bought a few used locomotives from a bigger railroad, and did a quick patch job, instead of a full repaint.

Although I have track planning software (XTrackCAD) installed on my computer, I might just lay down my track in various positions until I find something I like. Sometimes it's nice to see what the track will look like, with some trains parked on the track. I try out the track with a few trains temporary, before installing the track with glue. And use cardboard or paper templates for different track side industries and other buildings. Or perhaps make three dimensional buildings from cardboard, just for temporary usage, to see what everything looks like. I have a couple of the Walthers HO railroad catalog and reference books (1979 and 2009), which give dimensions of many of the structures. And I can build some of the structures found in the model railroad magazines from cardboard, to test the size and look. The articles that tell you how to scratch build a structure. Those articles almost always give dimensions, either prototype or model sizes, and often have drawings in a particular scale. I have a decent amount of model railroading magazines from the 1940's to 1980's, when those types of scratch building articles were more common.

 

[trailrider]

Sounds like you have nailed it! Above all, have fun, and keep us posted.

 

[Howard1975]

Even if I kept any other types of trains, such as narrow gauge, my main focus will on standard HO scale. I will be staying plain old analog DC. I don't need DCC or sound.

Most of my locomotive fleet will be Athearn Blue Box locomotives at first, and later getting some other locomotives as my budget allows. Such as Atlas, Kato, Life-Like Proto 1000 and 2000, Hobbytown of Boston, Model Die Casting Roundhouse, Stewart Hobbies, Mantua, Bowser, Penn Line, Fleischmann, etc. It really depends on my budget. For a small switching layout I only need a handful of locomotives. And I would prefer to have the older vintage locomotives made here in the United States, in Japan (Kato) or in Europe. I don't really want the modern stuff made in China.

Freight cars will be an assortment from various brands, including Athearn Yellow and Blue Box kits, Model Die Casting Roundhouse kits, Accurail freight car kits, Ulrich, Walthers, Con-Cor, Silver Streak, Quality Craft Models, Train Miniature, Varney, Bowser, Bachmann Silver Series, Branchline Trains, Ambroid, CB&T, Front Range, Gloor Craft, La Belle, Tichy Train Group, Ye Olde Huff-N-Puff, etc. And upgraded freight cars from regular Bachmann, Tyco, Life-Like, Rivarossi, AHM, IHC, Model Power, Lima, Roco, Revell, Cox, Gilbert American Flyer HO, Lionel HO, Marx HO, etc. Those reworked freight cars would get better quality metal wheels and body mounted Kadee couplers, and more weight for more reliable running and switching. And some would get their cast in details removed, and separate parts made from wire, like grab irons and stirrup steps, etc. And repainted, decals added and weathered to look better. Some will be painted and decals added for my own freelanced railroad, so they don't need to be prototypical to any particular railroad. And I would prefer most of my freight and passenger cars are made in the USA, Europe or Japan.

Because of the large flanges in some of that equipment, I will be keeping to code 100 track. Unless I decided to do hand-laid code 83 rails on PCB (printed circuit board) and wood ties. Without any spikes to get in the way of the huge flanges.

Hopefully in the future I will have more space (and money) to build a larger layout. I would still keep to plain old MRC brand DC power packs, using cab control to handle the layout. Perhaps some walk around throttles, but still doing DC power. And continue to use code 100 track (unless I hand laid my own code 83 track and turnouts without spikes).

At first most of my structures (buildings) will be simple kits I build myself, followed by some of the medium complex kits to assemble. I don't plan on getting any of the advanced and complex kits, unless I find it at a very low price. Eventually I would like to try scratch building some of my own buildings.

I have made plenty of the simple type of freight car kits throughout my life, such as Athearn Blue Box, MDC Roundhouse, and Accurail kits.

Generally speaking I'm an old school type of guy, I like the old vintage model trains more. I prefer dependable, rugged and reliable trains, easy to work on and repair myself, I want value for my money. I'm modeling on a budget, avoiding the new and expensive highly detailed DCC and sound equipped trains. I don't want the problems or higher price with the DCC systems. I can still remember buying Athearn Blue Box locomotives in the 1990's and early 2000's for $20 to $40 US dollars, and Athearn and MDC freight cars for 3 to 6 dollars at the hobbyshop.

Most of my model railroading book and magazine collection is also vintage, from the 1940's to the 1980's. Yes I have some modern books and magazines from the 2000's, they are certainly nice with all of the color pictures. But I would rather read the acticles in the old magazines. Which also means it would be better for me to model the past, because that is when most of my HO scale equipment was made anyway, here in the United States. I'm not buying the modern stuff made in China. My time frame would be the 1990's at the latest. But I will probably model in the 1960's to 1980's time period, to give me more variety of railroads.

My layout will be a generic and freelanced layout, nothing prototypical to a particular railroad or town. I used to live in the Chicago area for most of my life, now I'm living in South East Wisconsin, so I might model the Midwest. Many different railroads went to Chicago. I will probably model the 1960's to the 1980's in the Midwest. The early years of Burlington Northern, Penn Central and Conrail, and early years of Amtrak. Which means I can realistically run numerous types of locomotives and freight cars. I could still operate trains still in Pennsylvania and New York Central liveries, Baltimore and Ohio and Chesapeake and Ohio (Chessie System), early CSX, Chicago and North Western, Rock Island, Santa Fe, Southern Pacific, Union Pacific, Missouri Pacific, Illinois Central, Southern Railroad, Erie Railroad, Erie Lackawanna, Northern Pacific, Great Northern, Western Pacific, Soo Line, Canadian National and Canadian Pacific, Rio Grande, and many more. Freight cars could be from anywhere in the country. My locomotives and freight cars will be a random assortment, but most will fit in the 1960's to 1980's time frame. Some of the locomotives and freight cars will be painted and decaled for my own freelanced railroad.

Any steam locomotives (and really old rolling stock) will be for a tourist or museum type operation on the layout. Really old freight and passenger cars can also be used as MOW (maintence of way) equipment.

 

[Howard1975]

I have decided to keep most of my N scale trains, and have both N and HO scale model trains. My plan is to build a small portable layout for my N scale trains, perhaps 20 inches wide by 30 inches in length. Just a single track oval with a few turnouts for sidings. I already have all of the trains and track I would need to build it. It would need to use the 8 inch radius curves I have, and smallest Peco turnouts (switches, points). Which is okay because most of my N scale locomotives are vintage Arnold Rapido and Minitrix 8 wheel diesels, and most of my freight cars are vintage 40 to 50 foot long with truck mounted couplers. It was all designed to handle 8 inch radius curves.

And I would put around six to ten structures on the layout. When the portable layout is not in use, it can be put on some shelving I have.

And I will build the HO scale point to point switching layout on my 30 inch by 72 inch table, as I have already planned and explained earlier.

I want to build a small N scale portable layout, because I can make it an oval of track (with some turnouts for a few sidings for switching some industries). So I can sometimes just watch the train going around, as I sit back. I won't be able to just sit back and watch some trains running around the HO scale layout, because it will be a small point to point switching layout. Which is why I have decided to keep most of my N scale trains, and build a small layout with an oval of track. So I can sit back and watch the train go around, when I'm in the mood. And the little N scale layout will include a few turnouts for switching.

I already a couple MRC brand Tech 2 power packs, enough N and HO scale locomotives, enough N and HO scale freight cars, and enough N and HO scale track needed to build both layouts. I don't need to spend any money for the power pack controllers, trains or the track, because I already have enough. I mostly just need the structures and scenery. I already have a about 75 unpainted figures in HO scale, over 50 trees for N scale, and about 6 vehicles for N scale.

I will be selling off certain pieces (track and trains) which I don't want, or will never use. And use those funds to get some buildings.

Edit: Thinking about it more, I would make the N scale layout around 24 inches by 48 inches in size, allowing me to use a wider curve radius, and longer straights. And more space for scenery. It can sit on some L brackets hung from the wall, when not in use.