My helix project..oh boy!

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Had a friend send me this. As per my last reply, I’m thinking of building my helix this way. Using excel, all my calculations are figured. I think I like this! Like always. I’ll build my prototype out of cardboard board first. What do you think?View attachment 208068
Bob: That should work just fine. Do have a question: Are you planning on just cutting 3 1/2" blocks to go between the levels; except for the 1st and last ramp? Or, are you going to do an upright @ 90 degrees from the base and attach the ramps to that?. 1st gives you a 'leaner' , 2nd is straight up/down. Either should work, depends on what you want. Do note though if you use the 3 1/2 block method, check your inside radii so you don't hit the blocks because of underhang.

I decided on 30 degree arc's as my initial math said I could cut those in my laser cutter. Woops, didn't fit in the cutter as I forgot about the actual cutting area of the thing and just measured the inside of it. Ya, I know, sometimes I am st00pid. Fixed that with a new cutter and now I may be able to cut 45 degree arc's. If not, 30 degree arc's still work. My uprights will be 90 degrees from the base with holes in them for the ramp connections at my % grade.

Fun stuff, isn't it?

Later
 
Bob: That should work just fine. Do have a question: Are you planning on just cutting 3 1/2" blocks to go between the levels; except for the 1st and last ramp? Or, are you going to do an upright @ 90 degrees from the base and attach the ramps to that?. 1st gives you a 'leaner' , 2nd is straight up/down. Either should work, depends on what you want. Do note though if you use the 3 1/2 block method, check your inside radii so you don't hit the blocks because of underhang.

I decided on 30 degree arc's as my initial math said I could cut those in my laser cutter. Woops, didn't fit in the cutter as I forgot about the actual cutting area of the thing and just measured the inside of it. Ya, I know, sometimes I am st00pid. Fixed that with a new cutter and now I may be able to cut 45 degree arc's. If not, 30 degree arc's still work. My uprights will be 90 degrees from the base with holes in them for the ramp connections at my % grade.

Fun stuff, isn't it?

Later
Going to investigate the threaded rod method first. I first need to make enough cardboard templates to make a complete octagon. I want to make sure it’ll fit in my 7x7 foot print. Then I’ll draw my center lines, tack down a couple of pieces of flextrack and adjust from there.

Also I was incorrect about the measurement of the roughed in plumbing that will be under the helix. I said it was like 6 foot or 7 foot from the wall. It’s more like 3. I wasn’t even close. The reason I went with a 7 foot square in that location was because that’s what it measured from the one wall to a bump out I built to enclose some water valves and such. Oops. The tape in the pic is 6 foot from the wall. Seven takes it the rest of the way.
IMG_8705.jpeg
 


I used the straight segment method in my helix. I chose a 36 in radius because I had no room for a larger diameter.
I really liked the way this worked out and I recommend it for consideration for all.
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I laid out some foam board patterns to get a feel of the size and room needed.
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I ran a support rod up through the ceiling and anchored to joists. This allowed me to have a nice wide entrance into the helix. The rod will be mostly hidden by scenery.
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Upper level, main level and lower track to staging.
 
I used the straight segment method in my helix. I chose a 36 in radius because I had no room for a larger diameter.
I really liked the way this worked out and I recommend it for consideration for all.
View attachment 211221
I laid out some foam board patterns to get a feel of the size and room needed.View attachment 211222
View attachment 211223View attachment 211224View attachment 211225View attachment 211226View attachment 211227View attachment 211228
I ran a support rod up through the ceiling and anchored to joists. This allowed me to have a nice wide entrance into the helix. The rod will be mostly hidden by scenery.
View attachment 211229
Upper level, main level and lower track to staging.
Was messing around with the math of my helix last night. Right now I’m at a 40” radius. Thinking on reducing that to a 38. This would allow me to run a loop track around the base of the helix. I have 16 foot long by 3 foot wide area for my one yard just before the helix. Also just lowered my initial height of the second level from 24” to 20”. So a lot of changes going on. More photos soon and probably a new YouTube video this weekend.

Love your helix. Well done.
 
I have 5 turnouts that run to the main and upper levels plus a cut-off in my helix. Peco makes a turnout with a 36 inch radius diverging route so this worked perfect for my 36 inch radius helix. I am using code 83 on my layout but I used Atlas code 100 for the helix and staging track.
Most times a helix does not contain any turnouts but to achieve my final design, I had no choice. I just got lucky with the Peco turnouts matching my helix radius.
 
I used the straight segment method in my helix. I chose a 36 in radius because I had no room for a larger diameter.
I really liked the way this worked out and I recommend it for consideration for all.
View attachment 211221
I laid out some foam board patterns to get a feel of the size and room needed.View attachment 211222
View attachment 211223View attachment 211224View attachment 211225View attachment 211226View attachment 211227View attachment 211228
I ran a support rod up through the ceiling and anchored to joists. This allowed me to have a nice wide entrance into the helix. The rod will be mostly hidden by scenery.
View attachment 211229
Upper level, main level and lower track to staging.
That looks great. Nice work!
 




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