ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
I forgot about putting this photo up. Might be a good coversation starter. This is actually a sign on the Finger lakes Railway near Auburn, NY. According to one of the employees of the FGLK, it appeared in Trains Magazine not long ago. Does make you stop and think, doesn't it?
I've been a couple weeks with nothing to show, but I've been working on this. I had to give up the idea of sliding staging due to trackage rights (and a big pole), but this will work as a fiddle.
Anyway, the track took way longer than I ever expected and I had to add a bunch of benchwork (not to mention clearing a spot in the basement.) I also added lighting.
Amen to that! I have learned that lesson the hard way on a few occasions. I have several cars that need to be redone. But then again we learn from our mistakes.
John Your railroad is coming along,Chip looks like you did quite a bit of work looks good , Ray it does make you think . Tom always enjoy your rolling stock !!!
John Take a look at This picture It was taken at weekend by Don Burgess in West Yorkshire / East Lancashire, the road layout is similar to what your doing
Tom, I will go along with the others, very good weathering...just the right amount. So many over do it to where the cars look like a heap of rust. This may be good for modern where some cars are 40 years old, but not good for transition if the cars are only 5 to 10 years old and only need the dirt and grime with little rust (and no graffetti ). IMHO
Tom, nice job indeed. I've about given up on paint for weathering just for the reasons you mention. With chalk, I can go darker and it lightens up when I hit it with Dulcote. Not so with paint and it's painful to redo an entire car because of one slip of the airbrush.
Josh, you've gotta love those $12 Walmart headlights on that critter.
Chip, that's a lot of work on those handlaid turnouts. Should serve you well when your yard is completed.
Steve, that looks like a stone viaduct. Any idea how old it is?
John Take a look at This picture It was taken at weekend by Don Burgess in West Yorkshire / East Lancashire, the road layout is similar to what your doing
The blue Chessie car is a great example of not seeing the colors when it is wet. When I airbrushed the Charcoal Gray and later Raw Umber along the bottom of the car I could not tell how it looked until it dried. I learned to do one or two passes and wait for the paint to dry. It is better to build up several light applications then to remove one heavy.
On another forum someone asked for the roofs of a couple the cars so Ifigure I would post them here also.
Here are the roofs of the Accurail Lehigh Valley 50’ Exterior Post Boxcar and the Atlas Trainman Ashley Drew & Northern 50’-6” Boxcars.
I weathered the roofs by applying a wash of Folk Art Charcoal Gray. Next was a wash of Folk Art Burnt Sienna. Then I quickly went over them with a light airbrushing of the following colors in order:
• Folk Art Charcoal Gray
• Folk Art Raw Umber
• Folk Art Licorice
Lastly I sealed them with Dullcoat.