Manual or remote switches

[wwcw.co]

Was wondering if anyone uses manual switches in their layouts or a mixture? Switches are so expensive and I need a total of 23 so was wondering if people use like manuals in the fron part of a layout maybe where a yard is etc?

 

[Lynnb]

I use all tortoise switch machines on my layout powered by ds64 stationary decoders but really if I didn't already have them I would use manual throws for turnouts that were easily reachable without knocking anything.

 

[D&J RailRoad]

Slide switches make good turnout controls. It not only moves the points of the track but it provides electrical switching for signals and power routing.

 

[rzw0wr]

I used manual switching for awhile.
I would use what I needed to get by.
Manual if you can reach them easily and remote where you can't.
What type of switches are you looking for?

 

[Iron Horseman]

Was wondering if anyone uses manual switches in their layouts or a mixture? Switches are so expensive and I need a total of 23 so was wondering if people use like manuals in the fron part of a layout maybe where a yard is etc?

I suppose that depends a lot on how you want to run the layout. If there is going to be a single person operating the yard and the ladder is easily reachable manual might be the way to go. If there is going to be an engineer switching the yard with a tower operator for the switches then remote is the way to go.

You might want to just build as manual and then as operations dictate switch to remotes.

 

[Epimetheus]

Regardless of what you decide, drill a 3/8 inch hole under the throwbar clear through the roadbed. That allows you to add under table switch machines if you decide to go with them in the future. The hole is unnoticeable, covered with the ties and the throwbar.

I choose to go with manual throws. In the past I have used under the table electric switch machines, slide switches, Caboose Hobbies manual throws, and under the table pushrods. Currently I am experimenting with over the table pushrods using thin piano wire through small brass tubing. They are almost invisible under the scenery.

Yes, I drilled a 3/8" hole under every throw bar in case I decide to use under table devices in the future.

Here is a source of inspiration:
http://www.housatonicrr.com/downloads/Do It Yourself Switch Machines.pdf

 

[trailrider]

With the exception of one place where I have used Tortise switch machines to raise and lower crossing gates, rather than turnout control, I have mounted all my actuators on top of the table. This is because the mean elevations of my 14' x 13'7" layout are 32" and 36" AFL (above floor level), (for operating seated and so small kids can see the trains more easily), and because my old bones don't get up so easily, the actuators are easier to maintain and adjust. Where I have used Atlas turnouts, the electric switch machines that attach to the turnout are controllable electrically from the control panel. Where I have used turnouts that do not have integral switch machines, such as Shinohara, I have used several machines, including the old Kemtron twin-coil machines, usually disguised as piles of dirt, ties or hidden by folliage or inside a building. In other places, where I have used Peco turnouts, which are in areas where I don't need to switch them or are close enough to reach, I have either depended on the internal springs attached to the throwbars, or in some instances have gone with Caboose Industries ground throws, having removed the little internal springs. It basically comes down to WEW (What Ever Works)!

 

[GardenMaster]

I use mainly all remote switches except for sidings that I have just for looks, then manual works fine. Depending on your track selection, some companies such as KATO for their HO track sell manual switches and if you want it to be a remote switch you can buy a piece for it that makes the turnout into a remote one. Just requires you to take out 2 screws and replace the sliding thingy with the power one. Very simple. That way you can upgrade it whenever you want to.