MANTUA 2-8-2 MIKADO
- Thread starter Kusojiji
- Start date
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Nice work my man...
Like KriegslokBR52 stated, they are just friction bearings and they pick up the right rail only through the axles. The wheels are insulated on the left side. The wheels also do not touch the chassis and remain centered very well. Since this one has a tender, the tender provides the left rail power by passing it to the tender chassis and then a wire to the loco motor.
I've seen some 0-6-0 tank engines that have wipers on the wheels for the left rail connection.
I have an 0-6-0 tender loco that has the same bearings. I oil them with 10 wt nano-oil. I think you could use whatever since the body is so heavy, it'll make connection. On this one, I added weight inside the tender to get better connectivity to the rail. This one's tender was light as compared to the 0-6-0 tender.
Take one of those LEDs and sand off the tip so that the tip becomes flat. Polish it on your pants a
few strokes. Completly changes the focus of the light emitted. The original tip gives focused light, while flat spreads it out. I always use flat ones on our control panels, since it gives you constant brightness no matter what your perspective is.
You probably use fiber optic cable sometimes
for light tubes? Sometimes I use auto clearcoat to
unitize the tube and led. Also, a convex lens can be formed - with just a precisely applied drop of clear, then one more later... I don't use activator for the urethane we have, since it will air dry. Some urethanes may not dry without activator...
I have plenty of urethane, maybe I'll send you a testors bottle someday...
I have some flat tip leds and should have used that instead. Didn't think of it.
Oh, just thought of it, if you have time, can you take a shot of the mikado running gear, please? I need to see how the eccentric and the rest of it is supposed to be. Straight in to the eccentric shot is what I need so I know how far out of the center axis it should be. Thanks!
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KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
In beer?
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Tender is done. A coating of Tamiya flat clear TS-80, aged about 15 years to perfection. 
For the cab, the IPA soak worked great as it took most of the paint and decals off. Used the brake fluid to get the rest of it out of the cracks and crevices very easily. I should have used it on the tender to get between the cheek and gums, but ah, good enough.
Masked and getting the red roof and window frames done. Can't seem to get away from the lowest bidder, Friday crew...
For the cab, the IPA soak worked great as it took most of the paint and decals off. Used the brake fluid to get the rest of it out of the cracks and crevices very easily. I should have used it on the tender to get between the cheek and gums, but ah, good enough.
Masked and getting the red roof and window frames done. Can't seem to get away from the lowest bidder, Friday crew...
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Ok, finally got around to finishing this. I had to buy a new motor as the old Kato was drawing .7 amps. It also seemed to have a bent shaft and wasn't very quiet when I tested it during my 0-6-0 build. Got the new one installed and wired.
I ran it and realized that I had forgotten to put in the bridge rectifier for the firebox and had wired the tender LED in backwards (100% of the time so far...). So, all that fixed.
Also needed to dullcoat the body and cow catcher. Once all done, final assembly.
I also printed out a 15mm drawbar to get the tender in closer. The original was 20mm. The turn radius is ok with the rails that I have.
And on the road.
I ran it and realized that I had forgotten to put in the bridge rectifier for the firebox and had wired the tender LED in backwards (100% of the time so far...). So, all that fixed.
Also needed to dullcoat the body and cow catcher. Once all done, final assembly.
I also printed out a 15mm drawbar to get the tender in closer. The original was 20mm. The turn radius is ok with the rails that I have.
And on the road.
Last edited:
Michael B
nGuru Train Layouts & Components
As soon as saw the way the bearings were setup I thought what a simple way to get all the drivers to ride on the same plane. Do the axles just rub on the chassis like I am thinking? If so, is this common in HO?
Nice work my man...
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
Basically friction bearings. It depends when the model was made, if it has them or not. I've ran into Penn Line/Bowser models which either had them or not. If the model doesn't have them, the axles just ride inside cast frame. While it seems that there would be a lot of friction, you'd be surprised how free rolling the models are if you take care to have rods and valve gear properly set up.
TheXModelRailroader
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM FOUNDER
Love the end result! Great job!
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Thanks!
Like KriegslokBR52 stated, they are just friction bearings and they pick up the right rail only through the axles. The wheels are insulated on the left side. The wheels also do not touch the chassis and remain centered very well. Since this one has a tender, the tender provides the left rail power by passing it to the tender chassis and then a wire to the loco motor.
I've seen some 0-6-0 tank engines that have wipers on the wheels for the left rail connection.
I have an 0-6-0 tender loco that has the same bearings. I oil them with 10 wt nano-oil. I think you could use whatever since the body is so heavy, it'll make connection. On this one, I added weight inside the tender to get better connectivity to the rail. This one's tender was light as compared to the 0-6-0 tender.
Last edited:
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Thank you Boss!!!
westtexjohn
Well-Known Member
Very nicely done. I enjoy your loco "re-dos".
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Thanks! Something to do. I hope your motor job goes well.
This thing had an issue last night with the eccentrics coming loose. Started running poorly and then I noticed that the valve piston had popped out on one side. The thing was drawing almost .5 amps as well, so I spent most of the night trying to figure out how it is supposed to be. I ended up placing the eccentric pin going into the turn (vice trailing it), moving forward, at the radius of the inner axle hub. This provided some motion to the valve, but not much. It is still drawing a lot of amps, so I'm going to have to take it all apart and see what is going on, unfortunately. I hope the motor doesn't have to come out, one of the unfortunate things about gluing them in.
This thing had an issue last night with the eccentrics coming loose. Started running poorly and then I noticed that the valve piston had popped out on one side. The thing was drawing almost .5 amps as well, so I spent most of the night trying to figure out how it is supposed to be. I ended up placing the eccentric pin going into the turn (vice trailing it), moving forward, at the radius of the inner axle hub. This provided some motion to the valve, but not much. It is still drawing a lot of amps, so I'm going to have to take it all apart and see what is going on, unfortunately. I hope the motor doesn't have to come out, one of the unfortunate things about gluing them in.
Michael B
nGuru Train Layouts & Components
Since you are hard core like me...
Take one of those LEDs and sand off the tip so that the tip becomes flat. Polish it on your pants a
few strokes. Completly changes the focus of the light emitted. The original tip gives focused light, while flat spreads it out. I always use flat ones on our control panels, since it gives you constant brightness no matter what your perspective is.
You probably use fiber optic cable sometimes
for light tubes? Sometimes I use auto clearcoat to
unitize the tube and led. Also, a convex lens can be formed - with just a precisely applied drop of clear, then one more later... I don't use activator for the urethane we have, since it will air dry. Some urethanes may not dry without activator...
I have plenty of urethane, maybe I'll send you a testors bottle someday...
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Cool, thanks for the tips! I've been struggling with the lighter, melt the end of the fiber and hope it turns out round technique. I'll give the urethane a try.
I have some flat tip leds and should have used that instead. Didn't think of it.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Yeah, I had heard that the pacifics and mikados were interchangeable. Neat! I may have to go looking now. Was looking for an 0-6-0 tank, but am not too keen on the way it picks up power on the left side.
Oh, just thought of it, if you have time, can you take a shot of the mikado running gear, please? I need to see how the eccentric and the rest of it is supposed to be. Straight in to the eccentric shot is what I need so I know how far out of the center axis it should be. Thanks!
TheXModelRailroader
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM FOUNDER
Amazing looking! Great job!
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
With the rods down, generally you want the eccentric crank to lean about 13° forward from the vertical axis:
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