MANTUA 0-6-0

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Well, the paint didn't make a difference, especially since I didn't remember the voltage I was using before. So, a new baseline is needed. But, after adding more paint, it still vibrates like crazy. I believe the vibration is causing the gears to chatter. Maybe molydisulfide grease on the gears might work haha
 
Patrick said:
I have one of those in a GN livery I bought new in the early 90's. I let it sit in the box too long and have had to rework it. I currently have it using a kadee #5 on the front and found a lifted? On for the rear. Still doesn't run the best, but interested in seeing what you do with it.
Click to expand...
Oh, I would love to see a picture of it. I like the GN colors.
 


Kusojiji said:
Well, the paint didn't make a difference, especially since I didn't remember the voltage I was using before. So, a new baseline is needed. But, after adding more paint, it still vibrates like crazy. I believe the vibration is causing the gears to chatter. Maybe molydisulfide grease on the gears might work haha
Click to expand...
Kusojiji: How did you determine where the paint needed to go? With those frame motors, you could remove the armature and put the it between 2 very level razor blades and try to somewhat spin it slightly in place. That should allow the heavy part to spin to the bottom. Might be worth it to try a couple of times and mark the top of armature with a laundry marker or something; then add paint. Think of auto tire static balance. If paint is not enough, then you can really go out there - chuck it into a lathe and check the roundness. If not round take a tiny tiny bit off until it is completely round. Of course, there may be other issues causing the heavy part. Not sure if it is really worth it or not, YMMV.

L8r
 
ctclibby said:
Kusojiji: How did you determine where the paint needed to go? With those frame motors, you could remove the armature and put the it between 2 very level razor blades and try to somewhat spin it slightly in place. That should allow the heavy part to spin to the bottom. Might be worth it to try a couple of times and mark the top of armature with a laundry marker or something; then add paint. Think of auto tire static balance. If paint is not enough, then you can really go out there - chuck it into a lathe and check the roundness. If not round take a tiny tiny bit off until it is completely round. Of course, there may be other issues causing the heavy part. Not sure if it is really worth it or not, YMMV.

L8r
Click to expand...
I took the part that was rubbing as the high spot and figured since this was spinning, it would create extra momentum or whatever the term is for spinning stuff. The razorblade method sounds interesting and may give it a try. I have a few toys, but a lathe isn't one of them, yet...

Man, you are full of good ideas! Thanks!
 
Playing with razor blades today. The 1-2-3 blocks are perfect for this armature. Used a vice to squeeze 3 of them together with the blades sticking out. Made sure they were level.
FWD RAZOR LEVEL.jpg

AFT RAZOR LEVEL.jpg


And yes, I did feel the razor tugging at my finger several times. Made sure not to go across.


ARMATURE ON RAZOR.jpg


So, my first paint job wasn't close. I added paint to the part that was on top. After several coats, I decided to start grinding the heavy spot. Broke out my file and started grinding away. After several minutes and getting a flat spot on the armature, it still wouldn't balance. It was slowing down in getting to the heavy spot, though. I gave up after a while and put everything back together.

Took measurements again. I realized that the previous test is no good as I was resting the motor on its side. That was pushing on the brush that protrudes out farther than the magnet. This time I had it standing up on my table, which acted as the resonator.

Room baseline:
ROOM BASELINE (2).jpg


Open frame:
OPEN FRAME NOISE (2).jpg

OPEN FRAME VOLTAGE.jpg


At slow speed, this sounded like a motor boat. No hope. Has to go.

Is there such a thing as having too much magnetism? The magnet on this thing is very strong. It causes the armature to cog strongly.
 
Kusojiji said:
Playing with razor blades today. The 1-2-3 blocks are perfect for this armature. Used a vice to squeeze 3 of them together with the blades sticking out. Made sure they were level.
View attachment 233240
View attachment 233241

And yes, I did feel the razor tugging at my finger several times. Made sure not to go across.


View attachment 233242

So, my first paint job wasn't close. I added paint to the part that was on top. After several coats, I decided to start grinding the heavy spot. Broke out my file and started grinding away. After several minutes and getting a flat spot on the armature, it still wouldn't balance. It was slowing down in getting to the heavy spot, though. I gave up after a while and put everything back together.

Took measurements again. I realized that the previous test is no good as I was resting the motor on its side. That was pushing on the brush that protrudes out farther than the magnet. This time I had it standing up on my table, which acted as the resonator.

Room baseline:
View attachment 233245

Open frame:
View attachment 233246
View attachment 233247

At slow speed, this sounded like a motor boat. No hope. Has to go.

Is there such a thing as having too much magnetism? The magnet on this thing is very strong. It causes the armature to cog strongly.
Click to expand...
Kusojiji: Got to thinking .. gawd again? Anyway it might not be the armature assembly at all, but a bent shaft. Not quite sure how to check that, maybe between 123 blocks and roll it? Even with a .01" bend you should see one of the ends shift a bit off the block. Not sure if it is worth the time or not...

Me thinks that all motors of that type 'cog' somewhat. Kinda like a stepper motor but less.

L8r
 


ctclibby said:
Kusojiji: Got to thinking .. gawd again? Anyway it might not be the armature assembly at all, but a bent shaft. Not quite sure how to check that, maybe between 123 blocks and roll it? Even with a .01" bend you should see one of the ends shift a bit off the block. Not sure if it is worth the time or not...

Me thinks that all motors of that type 'cog' somewhat. Kinda like a stepper motor but less.

L8r
Click to expand...
Haha yeah. Will try anything. I was thinking the same thing about the shaft, but I don't see any wobble when it is spinning. It just cogs really badly.
 
I to use an offset coupler on the tender to line up with railcar couplers. Yes, I have a couple of the guage blocks Kadee puts out. Took three coupler to be above the arm IIRC. Used a standard on the front as it's basically for show only.
 
Yeah, the rear is a bit high, but not enough to be a problem, I think. If it is, I will make a shim. The screw I bought is long enough.
 
Finally got around to drilling the body for the lights. The boiler took a while as I started two holes from the top and from the inside. Had to aim carefully so that they met. Used a big bit on the inside to increase my chances. Had to stop many times to ensure I was on path and to clear out the galled bit.
HEADLIGHT.jpg

WIRE RUN.jpg

HOLE.jpg


Tail lamp was easier, but I didn't know that it had foil inside for the reflector. It doesn't now. Silver sharpie worked.
TAIL LIGHTT.jpg


Remotor kit ordered from NWSL. I checked and that motor has a 1.5mm shaft. I found a 1.5 to 2.4mm adapter so have that coming as well. I will try using the original gears first so that I don't have to pull the wheels off. If it doesn't work, then the gear change will happen.
 


Thanks!

Started working on the motor mount. Starting with the base while waiting. Will make one for a 1020 coreless and for the NWSL.
0-6-0 MOUNT BASE.jpg

I am finding that this thing is like Little Bill's house in Unforgiven, not one square board in the entire thing. It'll take a lot of tweaking to lock this thing in so that it doesn't move.

motor mount base.jpg
 
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