Sounds like the same/similar stuff (mine is XPS 300 @ 50cm?) but yes i will glue it before carving it. I just wish that when i was making up my mind i had done the screws insteadI work in construction. I got the three inch foam and long screws for nothing but I did also glue the foam. I've already removed a couple of screws so I could carve the foam.
Its actually XPS fluff so while yes it IS a nightmare and gets everywhere!!, it is not nearly as bad as the EPS polystyrene stuff, as it is heavier and less likely to stick to everything statically like EPS does. It actually has a very foliagey texture to it, so will save some and see if it works to make it dark green and yellow somehow.
With foam a hot wire cutter is essential (edit: for precision needs, otherwise not so much), no need to buy one, i just made my own out of an old laptop charger a couple of nuts and bolts, a spring, some croc clips and some nichrome wire that you can buy pretty much anywhere for cheap (this is the best type of wire as it is stronger when hot), guitar strings work kinda but are more expensive and not as strong when hot.
You just exceeded my ability to play with electrons at home and not burn something down in the process.With foam a hot wire cutter is essential, no need to buy one, i just made my own out of an old laptop charger a couple of nuts and bolts and some nichrome wire that you can buy pretty much anywhere for cheap (this is the best type of wire as it is stronger when hot), guitar strings work kinda but are more expensive and not as strong when hot.
A home made one is better than a bought one for 4 reasons:
1) It is MUCH cheaper, always good.
2) You can design it and readapt it easily to match your exact required jigging.
3) You can design in your own rheostat by simply putting a crocodile clip on the wire, the shorter the distance the hotter it gets so can eliminate all that nasty smoke and have a slower but smoke free melt.
4) Its cool and you made it yourself
I will post some pics of how i made mine if you are interested for future trials. Litterally took me < 30 minutes.
Hmm interesting hack that. I use 3 methods so far, the main one is a "stanley knife" that is a branding like "a hoover" not sure what it's name is in the trade, but it has a magazine of 60mm retractable blades (I think you can see it in one of my pics). Nice thing about this, i can score once then twice then the blade just glides itself each time i use a "click" of the blade to make it longer. But you can only cut up to 50mm thich.
Haha yeah there is that, but very little chance of starting a fire as long as you keep a clean clear area and of course remember to switch it off when not in use (soldering iron rules and just good old common sense).You just exceeded my ability to play with electrons at home and not burn something down in the process.
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For the most part i agree, especially for carving sceneery, it seems a blade does it well, I just cannot get the high precision with a knife though, no matter how i try. I prefer the wire for cutting my roadbed sub-surface (which i then put down cork on), i have done it in sections with a (around +-2%) gradient and it is perfecty level across the bed (except where i want to slightly super incline "cant"? the curves whch i can feed through the cutter going "round the bend" so to speak).
Thanks
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It should do, i will let you know
It is pretty impervious but i sand it and i think an acrylic wash should take hold without an issue.
... and the wheels were filthy LOL
it sounds like it is derailed but it isn't
