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I am fixing to start adding some lighting to my layout. Since I have nothing yet (some stuff on order) I am only going to use LED 12v stuff - no bulbs.
My layout runs DCC for the track but I currently use the accessory taps off an older DC controller to run my turnouts.
Would you suggest getting a fixed 12vdc power supply just for lighting?
I know about the Woodland Scenic's JustPlug lighting control stuff. I only learned about it the other day and kind of leaning against going that route.
It'll be at least a week before any stuff shows up so I have plenty of time to formulate a plan but I would like to have a plan in the works while I wait.
Should I shop around for a fixed 12v power supply just for this application?
I can easily build my own panel with rheostats for light dim control if I decide (no problem doing that).
Any thoughts?
I'm on open slate on this one.
Thanks for any advice.
E.
I am fixing to start adding some lighting to my layout. Since I have nothing yet (some stuff on order) I am only going to use LED 12v stuff - no bulbs.
My layout runs DCC for the track but I currently use the accessory taps off an older DC controller to run my turnouts.
Would you suggest getting a fixed 12vdc power supply just for lighting?
I know about the Woodland Scenic's JustPlug lighting control stuff. I only learned about it the other day and kind of leaning against going that route.
It'll be at least a week before any stuff shows up so I have plenty of time to formulate a plan but I would like to have a plan in the works while I wait.
Should I shop around for a fixed 12v power supply just for this application?
I can easily build my own panel with rheostats for light dim control if I decide (no problem doing that).
Any thoughts?
I'm on open slate on this one.
Thanks for any advice.
E.
I like to use separate variable power supplies for accessories and lighting because it gives me the flexibility to adjust voltages. You can pick them up used on eBay for next to nothing if you are patient.
I can't speak for everyone else, but I have been busier than a 1 armed wall paper hanger today. I just got to sit down a few minutes ago.
I currently use the accessory taps off an older DC controller to run my turnouts.
Would you suggest getting a fixed 12vdc power supply just for lighting?
Are the turnouts twin-coil or stall motor type? If twin-coils I recommend a second supply because otherwise the lights "dim" every time a turnout is activated.
I know about the Woodland Scenic's JustPlug lighting control stuff. I only learned about it the other day and kind of leaning against going that route.
Ummm, generally no. It might work, it might not. LEDs are not light bulbs. They do not dim the same way that a light bulb does. Old rheostats raise and lower voltage. To change the brightness of an LED one needs to raise and lower the amperage. A rheostat might also raise and lower the current enough to vary the illumination from the LEDs, but it depends on the entire circuit.
Most LED's operate at a much lower voltage (1.5v DC), so regardless of the power supply source, you will need some sort of resistors in series with one leg of the LED. One thing I've found useful as a separate source are the little plug-ins that can put out 9v or 12v or even 24v, depending on the version. These are usually current limited to no more than 0.500 ma, sometimes less. I usually save them from old multiple-line telephones that I've quit using. They probably do NOT have enough capacity for twin-coil switch machines, but for lights they are great!
The turnouts are going to stay with their own power supply regardless.
The yard light/lamp post lights and the LED strips I ordered are all 12vdc ready to go. So they are advertised anyway.
Guess I will poke around for a cheap 12v power supply. Like Louis said about variable, that might be ok. I could back it down if they are too bright.
E.
A lot depends on how much you want to be able to dim your lights. As a rule, LEDs don't dim as well as incandescent bulbs. As you dim , at some point you will hit a point where the LED will just go out. And if you want each light to be dimmable, you will need a lot of dimmers and a lot of extra wiring. As most seem to be suggesting, I use the wall-warts I save from discarded electronics. I have a number of them that put out 1 amp at 12 volts, but I try to group my lights by the brightness and then use various voltage/amperage wall-warts. Also avoid mixing regular bulbs and LEDs. I had a Bachmann water tower with a blinking light (not LED) and every time the bulb flashed on, all the LEDs on that circuit would dim. My 1 amp wall-warts will run 20-25 LEDs with no problem.
I am more than happy to use the power packs you dropped off last year Dave. I have toyed with the idea of using LED's instead of incandescent bulbs, but the old fashion bulbs won out.
By dropping the voltage to the bulbs to around 7 to 9 volts, the brightness is good and some of the bulbs that were installed almost 20 years ago are still working.
I have an NTRAK module that I lit with Christmas tree LEDs and a powerpack. The lights are wired to the speed control and you can dim them.....the trick was finding a resistor so that if someone cranks the speed to max that it doesn't blow the LEDs. You can dim them to maybe 50% and then they simply go out. Glad you could use the Power Packs......... I still think incandescent lights give a "better" light, but the life span on the LEDs makes them nice as well..
