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Took this thing out of hiding and tried to get it moving. No chance of that. Took it apart to see what was going on and everything had gunked up. Don't have any shots of the disassembly, but will show the reassembly.
Anyway, took the diode board out, lights, 8 pin connector and got the thing split. The trucks were coated with a thick gummy mess, so they were completely disassembled and soaked in IPA, followed by scrubbing with a toothbrush.
All axles were split so they'll need to be replaced. Chassis and frame were also cleaned.
Cleaned the commutator and sprayed the bearings with WD40 contact cleaner.
Will be replacing the diode board with a Kato light board. Some surgery will be required.
I don't have anymore Kato motors, otherwise this would get one. Might order one later... more to follow.
I tested it and it starts turning at low voltage and pulls about twice the amount that the Kato motor does. But, the Kato motor will not fit anyway.
I need to find a good linkage system as the stock sliding shaft one is off balanced enough to cause a wah wah sound. I tried an NWSL dogbone set, but that one was much louder and it took me 3 tries to get the dogbone length good enough.
If you're using dcc, just get one of the NCE or Digitrax decoders that are designed to replace the factory light board. They'll plug right into the 8-pin harness. As easy as it gets.
I've used Soundtrax "postage-stamp-sized" decoders on these as well.
I don't mess around with replacing the individual gears. The Athearn 40" wheelset (6 pairs in a package) work fine. Again, quick and easy.
I have a few of the Kato lightboards and just a slight filing got it to fit. I have the digitrax stamp sized decoder for it. I also have a few of the Athearn gears left over and got those replaced. Update to be posted today. But thanks about the info on the decoders. If all fails...
All of the axles were split so I had to replace them. I have a stash of these that I bought in 2008 when I started working on my Proto 2000 E8s.
I have a 14.5mm wheel gauge so putting these together was easier. Getting the wheels onto the gears is a real pain, though. Very tight. No wonder they split over time.
Once the trucks were reassembled, put them back into the frame. Found that the frame is notched for the truck riser to fit. Didn't pay enough attention when disassembling... Oh yeah, was a good time to scrub the wheels clean.
Next step was to figure out the universal joint. I don't really like the telescoping system that they use, so I gave the NWSL dogbone set a try. It took a few tries to get the correct length since they come cut to fit. Once that end is on, it don't come off, which is good normally. Of course it comes with the CA don't eat these warning.
I ended up going back to the telescoping system as these made a racket. May be too tight in some angles or something. Will look for something else.
After filing the ends, I got the Kato lightboard to fit. Had to adjust the LED length on the front end and then insulate the chassis and board.
Once this was all sorted, started reassembly. Placed the chassis onto the frame and routed the wires. Two main screws under the fuel tank and two screws under the couplers.
Added the insulation and attached the wires.
Did the playdough test to check for decoder clearance. there is 5mm clearance and the digitrax only needs 3mm.
Voila! Will run on DC for a while and make sure all is well.
I still have to add the side visors that are still in the box. Next up will be my Proto 2000 SP Blackwidow SD7.
Well, it sounds like cr@p. I believe it is the universal joint system. Looking for a replacement. Shafts are 2.4mm. Will look at Athearn or if I need to replace the flywheels for the ones with the hex insert...
As long as it didn't take too much force to get the axles into the gears, there isn't much chance of the replacements cracking. The cracking on the P2000 was due to the bad plastic the Chinese used for theirs. Nice job and good pictures!
All of mine are terrible. Did you have to do anything to get them to quiet down? Also, the worm side ball was cracked on both sides. I found some spares that I had removed from other models, Athearn, I think. My GP30 is now back on the shelf needing a solution for this.
I have repaired and revived many a Proto 2000 GP series loco over the years. The Athearn gears (Part No. 60024) need a little plastic drilling out from the holes to make them fit on the existring Proto axles. There is also the expensive drop in complete wheelset replacement available from Walthers but for a few minutes work, the Athearn gears (if you can find them) are a cheaper option every time.
I've done several probably a dozen or more of these You do know that the NWSL 491-6 set is two single drive kits one 2.0 mm and one 2.5 mm don't mix them up or you will have problems
I settled on the NWSL 492-6 it is only 2.0 mm so I drill out one end for the motor and a different size for the worm gear
If I remember the motor I used a #32 bit and the worm gear a #43
I never had any noise or binding with either the NWSL or the original slide ones (Athearn)
Also I never had to drill out the Athearn gears for the axles they were just a tight fit I've used so many of those 60024 gears lost count none split after replacement
Hi guys, thanks for the info. I have the axles fixed, no issues there. The problem that I am currently working on is the noise, which I thought was from the universal, slide joint. I cleaned up all the flashing and tried to make them as smooth as possible, but the noise remains. Now I am thinking that it may be the gears in the trucks. I have cleaned them out with IPA and a toothbrush. I don't see any dried grease left over in the teeth and in the shaft/hole of the gear. They do roll down an incline a bit (not as easily as my Kato stuff), but I don't know what else it could be. I put some oil on the u-joint ball area and it kinda muffled the noise down a bit, but it is still there. I oiled the gears in the trucks and use labelle grease on the worm.
Yep, I did find out about the different sizes that come with the NWSL kit. Luckily I caught it on the part description before adding more force to get it on . I tried to drill it out, but it ended up off center and crooked. The NWSL kit also has a ton of flash on it and has to be cleaned out.
Is there a replacement truck available? Or can I get the side details (don't know what to call the push on part that looks like the axle housing and brakes). The ones that I have are warped. One side rubs on the wheels and causes binding so I cannot push it on all the way.
Awesome! thanks! I checked the Athearn site and will order the trucks. I will also see if they have dogbones that will fit. I'll probably end up using the NWSL cups on the motor side. I only see plastic worm gears on the site. I wonder if the P2K worms can be used.
The NWSL stuff I bought probably 7 years ago. The dogbones won't even fit into the cups. Both have a lot of flash that needs to be cleaned up.
I bought most of mine probably 10 years ago no flash on any of them still have a few of the 492-6 ones and don't see any flash
I don't understand why the dog-bones won't fit in the cups they should I know they are kind of tight then they snap into place and are fine
The brass worm gears you have will fit those new trucks no problem at all the white plastic ones are the new and improved ones (maybe)
I don't have any of those I ordered a few of the worm gears at one time it showed the white plastic ones but I received the brass ones
I'm sure you will get it figured out the new worm gears have the newer style dog bone connection it will not match any thing you have
just use the original drive shaft parts or use all NWSL parts don't try and mix them could cause problems
THanks! I'll use the original worm gear since it will fit and give that a try. I hope it works. I am placing the new trucks on order, finalizing the payment part as the website won't accept my phone number.
If the noise persists, then I'll revisit the dogbones.
. I tried to drill it out, but it ended up off center and crooked. The NWSL kit also has a ton of flash on it and has to be cleaned out.