Lenz System, HELP!!

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It looks like you got a Lenz system instead of the Digitrax? Let me know if I can help.

Ken.
 
Yes I got the Lenz system as my 4X8 is ready to run. No landscaping done yet though :)

I hooked up the Lenz and tried the locomotive I have that says "DCC Ready" on the box. Not sure if that meant it has the DCC board or it can accept the DCC board.

So I took off the top and had a look to see if the board can be replaced with the DCC board I was sent via the plug. Ick, no go on that one, it's all wired in there and the connections are all heat shrinked. It's a job for a pro not me. I will take it to the train store and have them make the switch. This engine is a metal CN train F-7A. I put it on the track to see if that DCC board would work and all I got was a loud buzzing sound from the engine.

My other engine is clearly not DCC compatible, the board is a simple solid thing in the centre of the engine. It's an engine that came with a set so it's a cheap one. Also made a loud buzzing sound on the track with the DCC.

So I'm back to the Atlas controller for now.

In the next few days I'll need to get two DCC equipped engines up and running. Then re-hook up the Lenz and start again.

The manuals that came with the Lenz are like phone books, I could launch the space shuttle. :eek:

Any ideas?

R,
 


Yup they sure do go into detail with the manuals. The buzzing sound is the DC motor trying to run on the DCC ac voltage, won't work very well however most DCC systems can run a dc loco on the 00 address. Don't run them for long as the motor can overheat.

What Lenz system did you get? Set 100 or 90? I have both and find them excellent for programming (set100) and running trains (set90) love the big throttle knob on the 90.

Ken.
 
I don't know which one I've got?

One manual says LH90 Engineer's Throttle, the other says LH100 Dispatcher's Throttle.

So are you saying that even changing the board won't get that DCC ready engine to run on the DCC system because it needs a different motor as well?

R,
 
You have both as well (maybe a set100 with a LH90 throttle)

Yes changing the board to a decoder will make it run ok, any loco without a decoder will buzz.

You can use two throttles at the same time by using a LA152 Xpressnet adaptor, it has the same socket on it for the throttle.

Of course you can set one train going with any throttle then switch to the other train with the same throttle and run it (the other will keep running) the beauty of DCC!!

Ken.
 
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Ok here's where I'm at right now.

I got a new engine that said it was DCC ready to receive a board with an 8 pin connector, good news I have two of those boards. So I bought the engine, great colour scheme too even if it is a passenger engine that will have to pull freight cars for now.

So after much cursing I managed to get the damn board into the engine and close it back up.

I re-installed the Lenz system onto my track and put the engine on the track. I followed the instructions to start a train, hit the throttle, and by some miracle the engine started to move!!

Only problem was that it was going backward so I hit the red stop button.

It hasn't worked since, and now the LED on the LZV100 is continuously flashing. No response from the engine.

Dang! It was working and now some thing has gone wrong?

So I know that it is the right decoder etc, the train did respond.

Ok I'm looking in the trouble shooting section one of the reasons it says the LED is flashing is because the "System is in service mode." The solution is says is to: Finish programming the decoders. When service mode is exited the system will resume normal operation.

Ok if that is the problem, How do I finish programming the decoders? What does that mean exactly? (Of course they don't write this for the first timer in mind, GRRRRRR!)

How do I exit service mode?

The other reasons it says the LED flashes are:

1) The signal is not present on the C/D control bus lines.

2) Over-current detected (e-line is active)

3) The input voltage is too low.

If the issue is 1, 2, or, 3, why did it work then quit after I hit the red button?

First person to solve this problem wins a new locomotive!! Seriously I have a spare one that is not DCC compatible if you want it, take it.

Thanks
R,
 
If you turn off your system then turn it back on, it should be in the normal run mode. If your loco is acting funny, tip it to one side so the wheels are off the track for a few seconds then set it back down.
 
Thinking about this a little more. When you installed the decoder board, are you absolutely sure you oriented it the right way. I'm not to sure about the Lenz system, but other decoders can be pluged in backward, but you would get a non-functioning loco.

Did you run the loco before installing the board? Did it function properly?
 
I tried the switching off and on trick a few times but the light kept flashing.

Now the light has finally stopped flashing, I think hitting the red stop button over and over again re-set it?

Any way it now shows "normal operation" as it stays lit.

Ok I unplugged the system and took the engine off the track so I could start over.

I have the engine moving, hooray!!

Ok one big problem the engine is moving around the track at a snails pace even on full throttle. You can control the speed, but the top speed is only 1/3 of what it would be using the regular DC controller from Atlas.

Any ideas on that one?

Thanks
R,

PS: Please don't tell that's the new top speed, I'll die from boredom!!
 
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If you know any of the basic programming, you can reset it all to factory specs by going to CV 08 and setting it to 08. That is default for everything about the decoder.
Can you take the decoder back out, reinstall the DC plug and see if the loco itself is operating correctly?
 
I ran the loco first on the regular DC it flew around the track perfectly. Now on DCC a snail could outrun this train at top speed :eek:

Any way I'm giving up for the night, day one with the Lenz, Richard: 0, Lenz 1.

Good golly this thing is as user friendly as a PC!! (I'm a Mac guy)

I can't get the darn lights to come on, I can't change the number of the engine, no speed no power!!

The manuals are as helpful as cholera, who wrote these darn things? I give them an F-

Dag nab it, this just isn't fun :mad:

R,
 
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It maybe that you have the speed steps between the throttle and loco miss-matched. I run mine on 28 so I don't have to push the speed button so many times.
See the section in the manual setting speed steps.

Finding the reasons for something not working in a hobby is part of the fun!!
Ken.
 
Sounding more like the decoder is in backward. Make sure you are plugging into pin socket 1, usually marked with a 1 or orange dot on the loco board.
 
NZRMac said:
It maybe that you have the speed steps between the throttle and loco miss-matched. I run mine on 28 so I don't have to push the speed button so many times.
See the section in the manual setting speed steps.

Finding the reasons for something not working in a hobby is part of the fun!!
Ken.
Click to expand...

I set the speed steps to 14, same thing, no speed. You and I have different ideas of fun, I want it to work.....now. :rolleyes:

Just for laughs I pulled out the board and put the plug in the other way and tested the engine, runs exactly the same. No speed.

I'm going to try the loco on a friends DCC tomorrow, then at least we can narrow down the speed issue to the board or the Lenz. And go from there.

There is a purple wire that hangs loose from the plug, no idea what it's for? A speaker for sound maybe?

NZRMac....How did you get your lights on the loco to work? How do you change the number of the engine from 3 to a different number?

This is the decoder they sent me and that I installed, is it possible this is the wrong decoder:

http://www.reynaulds.com/products/ESU/52611.aspx

Thanks
R,
 
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The decoder has to be in the right way to power the lights, it also depends on the lights, led's are low voltage 1.5v approx and some decoders supply 12v for light bulbs, so it matters what lights are in the loco.
Make sure the light function zero button is on theres an icon bottom left on the LCD.

You will have to read the section on changing the loco address, very simple once you've done it a few times.

Ken.
 
NZRMac said:
The decoder has to be in the right way to power the lights, it also depends on the lights, led's are low voltage 1.5v approx and some decoders supply 12v for light bulbs, so it matters what lights are in the loco.
Make sure the light function zero button is on theres an icon bottom left on the LCD.

You will have to read the section on changing the loco address, very simple once you've done it a few times.

Ken.
Click to expand...

Ok, Ok, you need a "programming track". Nice of them to put that up front as STEP 1 in the manual, that would have been the logical place for it, DUH! Instead they stick it on page 51!

So I made a programming track with a spare power connector track and some hook up wire, I programmed in the new engine number. This also fixed the speed issue now she's running full tilt. FINALLY!

Last issue, the lights. Ok don't tell me, it's only 12:15 am, I have lot's of time to solve this one before I pack it in.


Thanks
R,
 
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Me thinks you need to make a coffee and sit and read the manual through:D

The configuration variables (CV's) are what makes all the changes to the performance and functions of the loco.

CV 29 is one of the most important and should be carefully set. Please read the decoder manual too.

My manual (LH100 version 3) page 42 programming.

If your version is different, I'd have to look it up online http://lenz.com/manuals/index.htm

Ken.
 
Well I haven't solved the mystery of the lights, and now I really do need to knock off the night, now 2am.

I did get the other hand held unit up and running though. Now I need the bus for the two controllers and a board for the other engine installed. Then we should be running two trains.

Even though neither one will have a light :confused:

R,
 


DCC Ready???

Interesting thread! As you have seen DCC ready can mean just about anything from a "quick plug" inside to having to cut traces on a PC board while you hard wire in a decoder. The only thing you can count on is that the motor will be isolated, and that "DCC ready" also means "No decoder included!"


You have gotten some good advice so far. Read the manuals through. I have done one ESU decoder and found that I didn't care for their documentation. Try an NCE decoder. They're less expensive than ESU (at least here) and they come with a list of what cv's do what right in the package. You don't have to download a big manual that covers every decoder made. Digitrax makes good decoders as well, but their documentation can also be confusing to a newcomer. Sounds like you have most of your problems solved. Regarding the lights: most new locos have resistors or diodes on their factory light board to drop the voltage. If you hooked up decoder light function wires direct to the bulbs you may have blown them as they are usually 1.5 or 3.0 volts, and most decoders supply full track voltage to the function leads :eek: We've all done this, so don't feel bad!;)

Have patience. It will work out!
 
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