layout height

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p14shooter

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So, as I am just on the learning curve, I was just going to continue to use my extra piece of 2x4 plywood (which is 3/4 in thick) supported on 2 TV tables to play around with. But that makes learning hard if I also want to learn about proper wiring along the way. I know height is relevant only to the individual, but when I do eventually build my permanent track, I think I intend to run it from a sitting position. My dining room table is 30" high so I presume that is what I am going to build it to but if anyone else runs their layout from a sitting position, and has some pitfalls to avoid. Not sure if I am building just a 2x4 for now, or 3x6, or all out and 4x8. I know I would need to be able to walk around a 4x8. I may even put in on wheels so I can move it about. This is N scale, not that it matters too much.
 
A lot of the height is going to be "what is your preferance". I agree it is nice to be able to work on some of the layout on a chair.
My bench work is 41.5" tall. then I added 2" foam for a height of 43.5". I mocked up several heights to see what was going to work
best in my situation. In the mountain area, the track is raised 8" off the top, so I'm viewing trains at 49.5" which is about chest height
for me. I settled on that for a desirable height.

It lets me use a taller adjustable drafting chair to comfortably work, or watch trains. It also allows me to roll around underneath on a
seat with rollers for doing underneath wiring and such.

You will have to play with different heights to find the balance, Do you want to view trains at a higher level or do you want to look down on them with standing?
 


Also, figure out what is the farthest you want to be able to reach easily when rerailing trains or doing scenery. The higher it is, the worse the reach can be.
 
Good to see you are thinking this through. If you plan to sit while operating then is it true that you may not need walk around capability? If so you want a table top layout that is one sided for easy access. I get it. If you want something that can give a few different scenes then you will need access from a few sides or have space for a rolling chair. Space is always an issue, but in this case you may be surprised how much is needed. A lower track level could be good, but try to keep it at eye level while in said chair.
If you are doing a walk around with active switching then between elbow and shoulder height is best. This makes the smaller scales seem larger and the view more prototypical. If you are an older person a stool would be handy and the eye level for such position would be ideal.
 
Mine is also up high starting at 48" on the lower level, rising to a bit over 56" at the upper track level. This was for several reasons.

The first is that I found this to be a good height on my last layout so I used it again. Secondly, it produces less lumber waste out of 8' 1x4s, and third, like Migalyto, I can easy wire and troubleshoot from below and have plenty of storage space under the layout.

I operate from a tall drafting chair that is about 18" above eye level on the layout. The third level track is slightly below eye level when seated.
 
p14shooter said:
So, as I am just on the learning curve, I was just going to continue to use my extra piece of 2x4 plywood (which is 3/4 in thick) supported on 2 TV tables to play around with. But that makes learning hard if I also want to learn about proper wiring along the way. I know height is relevant only to the individual, but when I do eventually build my permanent track, I think I intend to run it from a sitting position. My dining room table is 30" high so I presume that is what I am going to build it to but if anyone else runs their layout from a sitting position, and has some pitfalls to avoid. Not sure if I am building just a 2x4 for now, or 3x6, or all out and 4x8. I know I would need to be able to walk around a 4x8. I may even put in on wheels so I can move it about. This is N scale, not that it matters too much.
Click to expand...
For a standing table; I’d stand up, measure how far it is from the floor to around the middle of your chest. It’s a nice medium where there’s room to get underneath comfortably to do wiring. it’d be tall enough to where you can view your trains realistically, short enough to where you can reach over ( maybe with a step stool) to reach scenery or re-rail cars.

For sitting: find the average height of chairs you prefer, and go from there. Dining room table height should be sufficient. You can get underneath to do wiring, although it’d be a bit of a hassle. You can also view trains from a realistic angle (sitting) and be able to reach everything (standing)

Hope this helps.
 
When I sit down to run and watch trains I like to see them, then disappear behind scenery, tall bushes, small trees etc..

When I stand I am able to reach all the trackwork to clean, derailments etc. Make sure you can reach all areas comfortably.
 
p14shooter said:
who knows what I want at this point. Part of the learning I guess.
Click to expand...
If you are thinking about operating your layout in a seated position, still think about your viewing angle. Do you want the track at some what eye level? Or do you want it chest high (while seated) ? Or do you want it at elbow height like when you're sitting at the dining room table.

Also, are you going to be seated in a desk chair? a dining room chair? or a drafting table chair (which is higher than a normal chair),
'
Reason why I ask this is because my shadow box layout is just below chest high on me (I'm 5'4" tall) so that puts is at about 45-47" and then when I'm seated in a drafting chair 24-26" floor to seat, my eye level is about 44-46" (depending on how high I put the chair. So, whether I'm standing or sitting, I'm basically the same viewing angle. Not hard at all to "be at track level" as your train goes by.

See picture of the drafting chair. I have two, this one is in spare room but the same chair is in my shop where my layout is for now.

image0 (37).jpeg


Food for thought. Here is a picture of my shadow box layout (if you haven't seen it)

KG & B Railway shadow box layout.jpeg
 
Don't forget, if your table is big enough that it is next to impossible to lean up against a wall and install/work on wiring, then you need to have it tall enough to be able to comfortably work on the wiring while sitting and/or sliding around on the floor underneath of it.

Panel Backside.jpg
 


When Id planned my current layout, I wanted to be able to run it seated. Also, I wanted it low enough in case neighbor kids wanted to see it. So I made the lower portion at 31" from the floor. I also wanted a grade and a section that would fit over a small cabinet I happened to have, which made the section on the other side of the room about 36" high. The layout is a folded dogbone with a peninsula in the middle at the lower height. The grade up the one side comes out to about 3.14% Just came out that way with curves at either end.

One hint: Do a lot of thinking and planning before you start cutting lumber. It will save a lot of aggrivation.
 
My layout is pretty close to be roughly exactly 39 1/2" tall.
Why that height? One of those combination of an interaction of factors kind of things. But you know what? It works for me. I have back issues, and this I at a great height that I don't have to bend over it to work on it. Tall enough that I can sit on the floor underneath it if I plan to work down there (wiring, etc.), but also low enough that my 8 year old can see and work with me and run his own trains.
A more exact dimension would probably have been better, yes, but, like I said, it works. :)
 
p14shooter said:
So, as I am just on the learning curve, I was just going to continue to use my extra piece of 2x4 plywood (which is 3/4 in thick) supported on 2 TV tables to play around with. But that makes learning hard if I also want to learn about proper wiring along the way. I know height is relevant only to the individual, but when I do eventually build my permanent track, I think I intend to run it from a sitting position. My dining room table is 30" high so I presume that is what I am going to build it to but if anyone else runs their layout from a sitting position, and has some pitfalls to avoid. Not sure if I am building just a 2x4 for now, or 3x6, or all out and 4x8. I know I would need to be able to walk around a 4x8. I may even put in on wheels so I can move it about. This is N scale, not that it matters too much.
Click to expand...
Mine is 24” high. I have roller stools to move around. Wiring is easy with a creeper.
 
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