layout entrance bridges

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matthewb507

New Member
Hello guys i was just wondering if anybody on here has ever used a walthers motorized bascule bridge on there layout for there entrance doorway. Id like to use this idea concept for my railroad to avoid liftouts and duckunders. I have seen it done before but thats been quite a few years ago, so i am just wondering if anybody has done this and if so do you have pics of it to get an idea.

thanks

matthew

modeling modern canadian pacific railway, dm&e ,ic&e
 
I haven't used the bridge, but learned a thing or two about the space needed aisle ways if you're going to use lift outs, lift gates, or drawbridges.

Most suitable bridge kits (truss, etc. that don't need so many piers for support) in HO are 150' scale minium, which is about 18". That is the absolute tightest I'd build an aisle way if you're just going in and out of the room. You can usually just turn sideways and go through fine. When it becomes an issue is if your carrying something in your hands too, and 18" is way too tight. My main entrance to the room is 24", which is still too narrow for my taste. I'd rather have 30" for comfort and when I have stuff in my hands. I didn't larger than 24" because I would have had to rebuild an entire section of bench work, which would have been extremely difficult.

Personally, the only way I'd think about something narrower than 18" would mean that the bench work and track would have to be above my shoulder level, which would mean the track would be at almost 70" off the floor.

Now, what you can to, is you can build a lightweight lift out with a conventional bridge and its approaches or abutments on the lift out too. The simplest I've come up with is using 1/2" or 3/4" plywood with a vertical runner or two for strength (looking like a deck girder bridge) as the lift out, and the bridge above. The lift out then could be modeled to look like a stream bed. If you run your feeder wires to both ends of the fixed track at the bench work, then using just regular track joiners would span the gaps and provide enough power to the lift out section when it is in place.
 
I would caution against using a fragile styrene bridge as a gateway for humans. If you or one of your guests/operators isn't hyper-vigilant while going thru there, you could easily damage the bridge just by bumping into it.:eek:
 


I'll fall completely off the shelf and smash into a loud and empathic, "Don't do it!!!" As with everything that can possibly go wrong in our sooooo finnicky hobby, every time you encroach on established or anecdotal minimums, whether for curves, transitions into curves in any plane, clearances, and aisle widths built for humans with elbows, you write a blank check for Herr Murphy.

You would be far better to build a substantial 3/4" plywood hinged section that swings up and over vertical by about 15 degrees, or one that swings down and can tie up on hooks nearly parallel with the bench now above it, or an actual lift-out section.

This is the one link in your system that will get a lot of wear and tear, and a styrene bridge just won't do. You want something nearer to 28-30", wieghing about 4 - 6 pounds, and hinged with good brass hinges. Considering all it takes to construct a nice Bascule bridge kit, paint and weather it, and then set it in place so that everything lines up all 680 times you move it into position, I would be crushed if I lost it to a moment of inattention, either on my part or the part of a highly embarrassed guest...or spouse. Come to think of it, the bridge would be pretty crushed as well.
 
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Just remember, if you do a lift gate (swings up from the bottom), the track can only be flat (no bridge or structures on it) while in the down position, or you'll hit it with your legs and arms when you go by.

Lift outs do require a place to put them, so unless you've got a good place for them, I'd do it on the upper levels. Swing gates are nice if you have somewhere for the gate to swing to.
 
FunValleyLine said:
This may help I posted it and I can give you more info/measures if needed.


http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5665
Click to expand...

I love it, I would say you are possibly a genius. I needed a lift out also. first used a piece of wood, not so hot. My layout is in a building behind my house with no climate control. Expansion/contraction was major problem. So I tried a piece of Plexiglas with bridge sides. It looked great but it was as bad as wood if not worse. Then I had a friend make me a sheet metal one. It works great. I have had it for about 10 years now and other than seasonal adjustments for expansion of about 1/8 inch which I think is the layout more than the bridge. I have only made a few adjustments.

100_0096.png

Here you see it in the up position. I think it is 24 inches long.

100_0095.png


100_0092.png


100_0093.png

These last four pics show the hinged end. notice the pivot point is set back from the actual joint. I offset it as much as I could, this allows the track to move up before the actual swing starts letting the rails clear each other.

100_0094.png

This is the other end where I made a cradle for it to rest in. I have a screw in each corner to adjust the height.
 
The only problem I had was the expansion and contraction. I made a fix for this by firmly attaching the track on the hinge side and the bridges. On the open side I added rerailers with the rails removed. I then firmly attached the flex track so it couldnt move and the expansion and shrink on layout side was absorbed away from the fold up. I then cut rails the proper length for the rerailers and they are loose so I can slide them and take up the slack so to speak in two places at the bridge approach thus limiting the gap. This has worked well so far. I will update the pictures and show more soon.

As for the bridges....I dropped the fold up as to have bridges of three types and it all works well actually. Lift outs are fine but this is all attached and protects one side when folded up. Lift outs have to be set somewhere and that is a problem. This way the fold up protects the bridges and scenery on that side.

Good luck and thanks for the kind remarks.
 
Mathew,
I have been using a walthers bascule bridge exactly as you described for 12 years now without a mishap. One thing I did was NOT glue it down just in case some clutz did bump it.
It will get slightly mis-aligned sometimes by maybe the width of a rail just by it's own motion, an easy fix...I have it adjusted to go all the way to the stops so it's almost vertical.
http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/Capndick/ Look around I think there are some shots that show it.

That said, the other scenarios posted are very valid ones, mine is a one man op and I am careful to advise any vistors to not hit it.

Les, your idea is great, very well thought out and the only way to go if you get any vistor traffic, well done.

Dick
 


hey everybody thanks for all your replies lots of different opinons on what to do les i like your idea there you got going on, that is similiar to what i wanted to do with the bascule bridge and have it motorized with a flip of a light switch. Dick i did see one of your pics of the bridge i see a 1/4 of the bridge with the lighthouse and harbor scene next to the edge of the layout, im sure it looks quite impressive in person to look at it and all of a sudden it stars to lift up. thats what i had in mind to do so i dunno ill still look around the web and see if i can come across something. thanks guys

matthew

modeling modern canadian pacific dm&e ic&e
 
Here's one bridge idea developed by Bob Chaparro:
http://tinyurl.com/ybj84qm
Hopefully the 5 pix of his swinging bridge show up. You may have to scroll down to see the index. They are posted on the Model Railroads Of Southern California Yahoo Group site.
 
Matt,
I thought there was a better pic of it on there.
It's fun to have someone enter through the bridge, hit the switch and "lock them in", the lights on my signals change from red to green once it's down.

The grandkids love it.

Dick
 
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