ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
I've acquired an overland SD60 mechanism (which i still have to figure out how to paint) that i plan to outfit with a Kaslo Products SD60F shell. Has anyone else tried this combination, or have any tips? From what i understand, the way that you mount the shell to the mechanism is pretty vague (they leave it up to you). I wish i could get my hands on one, just to look, but unfortunately the only hobby shop in the area that carries them is about an hour away. Any thoughts?
Many kits are held to the frames by the coupler boxes. The Kaslo shells may be able to be attached the same way. If not, you can always use the same attaching method as if it were a brass unit. I think they use 00-90 machine screws to hold the brass shells to the brass frames.
I am in the processs of making myself a SD60F. I orginally was going to do the same as you are. Use a Overland chassis with a Kaslo Shell... but after i got the chassis I realized that I didn't really like the power pick up.
I am now gonna use a Proto SD60 chassis. Gonna have to do some trimming on corners of chassis and the metal weight also.
Lenghtwise its almost a perfect fit, I need to shave a little off the inside of each pilot of the shell. Also on the inside where the couple boxs fit, Kaslo molded a block that you attach your coupler boxers to. I ground them away just last friday nite at work so I can attact the coupler boxes to the proto 2000 chassis instead.
still in process yet I will let you know more when I get farther along.
Sorry it took me long to get back as I took a break from working on my
SD60F for awhile. As you can see in the picture i had the top of the steel wieght milled down. I was trying to grind down front of weight to but after getting frustrated I just decided to cut the front off completely. I think will be easier to hook up lights this way too.
You can also see that where there used to be a half round slot is now a 3/16 (.187) groove. My plan is to epoxy 3/16 thick flat styreneonto sides of shell. gonna drill out and basicly attach middle of shell same way proto did.
Kaslo had it so you attached the coupler boxes to the shell itself. I plan on using the proto chassis. You can see how I ground away the backside of the pilots so that chassis would fit. The shell will sit on the very ends of the chassis, you can see in front where I had to mill down chassis to provide more clearance.