Jerome's Switcher Roster

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Karl, that would be a major build. You might find a frame suitable, but the body and cab would be all scratch built!!

Exactly why I'm thinking about going ahead with it (if I can find good plans or properly measured photos) and making molds of the sub assemblies as I go. Who knows, might be able to sell a few, make it worth messin with.:confused:
 


Paul,
I most definately am interested, that is if the center cab you describe looks like this.
MMID102.jpg

I need one of these to finish out my Maryland Midland roster!:D


Yep, that's the one.

I got these plans from a feloow who offers an N scale shell. So if you model in N scale, you could just buy one. Here's his webpage:

http://www.randgust.com/prod03.htm

Since I'm an HO modeller, I asked him for some plans. I could send you a PM with my email and send you the plans, Karl, or you could contact Randall directly.

What I was thinking was to get a firm to do up some etchings for the body and use a chassis of something, the GE 70 tonner being very close as I mentioned previously. Here's the mob I was thinking of getting to do the etchings:

http://www.steamandthings.com/

This method would end up costing me about $300-$400, so I put it off. I might get around to it one day. If you were to do your own model Karl, add me to the list of interested customers.:D

Other options for Whitcombs are the Hallmark 1980's DE19a and another importer did the side rod loco around 1979. Niether are common.
 
Karl, I'm trying to diversify my collection a bit. I've added MP15's, more ALCO's, and oddball switchers as I can find them. I even bought this little guy last week.

100_1940.jpg


It has an all metal body, runs pretty good, but I think there might be a piece missing under the cab. Maybe place an air tank on each side to cover up the drive gear??

Jerome, I have 2 of the little Gilbert Critters, one I got new in 1962-63 with my first train set as a kid, the other I got from ePay a couple years ago. That is all that was on mine, no air tanks, driver covers, etc. Also, niether one of mine have the extension on the rod for the driver. Looks like it might have been a cam for sound?

It was one of my favorite engines back then. With the heavy weight it would pull everything on my layout, even though it was only a 4 wheeler. It made a few trips to the floor, and I had to replace the axles a couple times in the 60's and early 70's.

Here's a pic of one of mine.
MVC-736F.jpg


Rotor
 
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Jerome, there was never any doubt in my mind you were not going to leave that critter alone! I knew it would become a project! :D

I'm not sure how tough that metal body will be to drill and machine. Not sure you'll drill it easily with a pin vice, although it is only "white" metal. I'm sure a slow Dremel and some good bits will work.

Rotor
 


Rotor, I want to detail this one up, but I'm not too sure how hard that metal is going to be to drill into.

Jerome,
It's not going to be any harder than drilling into a Bowser or Mantua boiler. Just take it slow, and use plenty of light oil on your bits. Then remember to wash the shell thoroughly (to remove the oils) before painting.
(I just know it's going to get an A&P paint scheme!)
 
I know, right?

The decoder I bought with it/for it cost almost as much as the locomotive itself. But it should do nicely. I will take a grinder to that lead axle to get rid of the pointy axle ends though.
 
You can buy pointless wheels from Jay Bee I believe. It will look better without that pizza cutter flange! (or if all else fails, people sell pilot trucks/wheels for steamers on eBay all the time)
 
Montana Rail Link #52. It came to me in a trade, she's an Athearn RTR but has been dummied. I added a speed recorder and painted the frame/wheels/trucks and Kadee #158's. She'll get weathering later down the road.

100_1997.jpg
 
I got this Athearn RTR SW1000 a while back, then I came across this SW7 calf. I figured they'd make a good set, so I started in on the frame tonight. It's painted, wheels/trucks/sideframes etc. I even found an extra set of roller bearing sideframes for the SW7. They will both be powered and mated together.

100_1998.jpg
 
Bah, no need. It will take me 5 minutes on the big grinder. The flanges aren't really that bad, its a small wheel and I took the pic with my phone. Why buy a replacement to avoid actually getting out of the armchair?
 


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