Jerome's Switcher Roster

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Brad, funny you should ask that. Yesterday she got a new coat of Southern Pacific Dark Lark gray paint. I missed a few areas under it so I have to do some touch up on it. Here's how it looks right now.

Nice, looks great. I was wondering if you were going to spray the entire shell after adding the details or not? Did you soak the shell to strip the old road name and numbers off first or just spray over them? I noticed in the picture that you still have the red on the nose, so did you skip the dip and strip?
 
Jerome, you posted in the for sale section a Rio Grande engine, what type of putty did you use to fill the horn hole on that model? I think it was a green color. That might come in handy, i've used layers of CA to fill holes, and that was time consuming and a mess.

I didn't want to hijack that thread so I'll post it here!

Thanks, Jason

Dont worry about ever hijacking any of my threads to ask a question, its a community forum, ask away ;)

Jerome- I found one, same road number actually, for $20 plus shipping, so ill have to pass on your unit. I might have to send them out someday to get whatever you did to yours to make them look that good! :D
 
Jerome, you posted in the for sale section a Rio Grande engine, what type of putty did you use to fill the horn hole on that model? I think it was a green color. That might come in handy, i've used layers of CA to fill holes, and that was time consuming and a mess.

I didn't want to hijack that thread so I'll post it here!

Thanks, Jason

Jason, that is Squadron Products green putty. They also make white putty. Both are fast drying, but I prefer the white putty. If you put on the green too thick to fill something, it has a tendency to melt the surrounding plastic also. The white is a more finer putty and easier to sand in my opinion. Look in the model area of your local hobby shop for it. Comes in a tube about half the size of a toothpaste tube.
 


Nice, looks great. I was wondering if you were going to spray the entire shell after adding the details or not? Did you soak the shell to strip the old road name and numbers off first or just spray over them? I noticed in the picture that you still have the red on the nose, so did you skip the dip and strip?

Brad, I did a little light sanding over the road # and name with a Mr. Eraser to knock down the edges, then just painted over it. I'll need to mask off the ends and repaint them SP scarlet red next.
 
Jason, that is Squadron Products green putty. They also make white putty. Both are fast drying, but I prefer the white putty. If you put on the green too thick to fill something, it has a tendency to melt the surrounding plastic also. The white is a more finer putty and easier to sand in my opinion. Look in the model area of your local hobby shop for it. Comes in a tube about half the size of a toothpaste tube.

Alright, thanks Jerome, I'll give it a try!
 
just got this one the other day from evil-bay still needs to be weathered.
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Jason, that is Squadron Products green putty. They also make white putty. Both are fast drying, but I prefer the white putty. If you put on the green too thick to fill something, it has a tendency to melt the surrounding plastic also. The white is a more finer putty and easier to sand in my opinion. Look in the model area of your local hobby shop for it. Comes in a tube about half the size of a toothpaste tube.

One word of caution. Squadron White and Green will both shrink as they dry. I've found that when its used to fill holes (such as horn holes in cab roofs) that it takes a week or better before the shrinkage is complete. Use your nose. If you can smell a laquer type smell, it ain't dry all the way. :eek:
I've found that using JB Weld (a 2 part epoxy available at auto supply stores) as a filler that not only is it stronger that squadron putty, but I only have to wait about an hour before I can sand or paint it.
 
Jerome,

I just wanted to say again how much I enjoy following your postings. The detail and how quickly(relative term) you do the builds in inspiring. Great work, thread and presentaion.

Johnny
 


One word of caution. Squadron White and Green will both shrink as they dry. I've found that when its used to fill holes (such as horn holes in cab roofs) that it takes a week or better before the shrinkage is complete. Use your nose. If you can smell a laquer type smell, it ain't dry all the way. :eek:
I've found that using JB Weld (a 2 part epoxy available at auto supply stores) as a filler that not only is it stronger that squadron putty, but I only have to wait about an hour before I can sand or paint it.

Thanks for the heads up. I've used the JB weld before, but isn't it tough to sand? In the instances I've used JB I haven't had to worry about any expansion/shrinkage issues, is this a problem?
thanks
 
i'de like to know how easily jb weld could be sanded. Only downside I see is you have to mix enough to do what your working on or risk not having enough or way to much. Whereas the putty you can keep squeezing till you have what you need.
 
Only downside I see is you have to mix enough to do what your working on or risk not having enough or way to much. Whereas the putty you can keep squeezing till you have what you need.

Problem with putty. Squeeze what you need, reseal. Squeeze what you need, reseal. Squeeze what you need, reseal. Squeeze what you need, reseal. Squeeze,,,,,,,,,,,,,,this stuff is hard as a rock!!!! THROW AWAY 1/2 tube or more each and every time.
:eek::eek::eek:

No economy there at all!:eek:

With mixing JB Weld, you soon will learn what you need. If you do need more, wait 20 minutes and mix more!!
 
OK, and now back to our regularly scheduled show........................

A&P has acquired 3 more CF7's, they're headed for decals hopefully this week sometime.

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And also 3 more new SW1500R's headed for the decal shop................

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Jerome, I finally got a couple of undecorated Athearn SW1500's and I was wondering if you have ever installed after market Canon and Co.'s etched metal steps on your SW1500's? The undercoated RTR's come with a ton of detail parts but the steps are pretty basic on these models.

http://shop.cannonandco.net/product.sc?productId=155&categoryId=16

Brad, you can go 2 ways on this one. If you want the entire walkways and steps done, use the Cannon kit you had listed. If you only want to do the steps, use this A-Line kit.

http://www.1stplacehobbies.com/cgi-bin/p_116-29255_n.asp

I did Carl's CP SW1500 before Cannon released that new walkway kit so I just did the steps on his RTR unit.

101_0423.jpg


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What Rail Road are you going to do them in???
 


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