Installing Soundtraxxx Tsunami TSU-1000

[Promagstyle]

Hello,

I need help for installing a Soundtraxxx Tsunami TSU-1000 on a Proto 2000 GP7 (picture shows: Erie Railroad), but the model that I actually have is a Canadian National GP7 in the Olive and Yellow Paint Scheme.

It currently has, what looks like a 8-PIN plug and play board. I think I have to remove the board and everything that goes with it.

This is the Soundtraxx - TSU-100 Chip below:

I haven't chose a speak yet, but looking from the Soundtraxxx website, they tell me that I have to order some type of baffle as well.

Any help appreciated!

 

[Espeefan]

Yes, I'd recommend you get rid of the factory board. I did this with all of my Proto diesels, even when installing regular non sound decoders.
For the best sound, a baffle is recommended. There are commercial ones out there or you can scratch one out of styrene. It depends on which speaker you choose. Narrow hood units like this one can be a challenge. You might have to remove some of the weight, and have the speaker fire upwards through a fan. It's always a little interesting on these units that were designed before sound was mainstream, because there is no "right " way.

 

[Promagstyle]

Speaker

Does anyone know where I can pick up this type of speaker, this was suggested on tsunami's website.

 

[Espeefan]

Some dimensions would help. They should be readily available from your LHS if you have a good one, or places like Tony's Train Exchange

http://www.tonystrains.com/

Google is your friend!

 

[Promagstyle]

Some dimensions would help. They should be readily available from your LHS if you have a good one, or places like Tony's Train Exchange

http://www.tonystrains.com/

Google is your friend!

Here is the excerpt from Soundtraxx for the dimensions

"This small 1 watt oval speaker is a tiny 0.56" wide, 1.00" long and just 0.19" deep (14mm x 25mm x 5.2mm). Frequency Response: 750 – 3.5k Hz. It is perfect for narrow hood diesels and anywhere else where space is at a premium!"

 

[Espeefan]

That's a pretty tiny one! it will fit in there for sure. The question for you is, where? This model has a one piece upper weight that screws to the frame, so you,ll probably be removing weight from somewhere. If it were me, I would probably remove some from the rear upper portion and allow the speaker to fire upward through the fans. Tony's should have a baffle available for that speaker. Each install of these is different and it's best to have the model in hand to strategise how you will do things. Good luck!

 

[ICG/SOU]

You didn't really pick an easy one to start with.

The 1" speaker is a good speaker, but you may find it rather quiet when you get it in there. It's just not a very big speaker.

One of the tricky parts of putting speakers in is you want to put the largest speaker you can fit in the shell. A larger diaphragm means more air can be moved by the speaker, and thus more sound. Without milling anything, you could possibly get away with creating a small enclosure in the roof of the cab, facing downward. Just make sure the diaphragm doesn't come into contact with anything in the cab, or you'll have unwanted vibration.

As for the wiring, I'd recommend removing the stock board and harness and hardwire everything to your decoder. I'd also recommend replacing the stock bulbs with LEDs and resistors (use 3v 3mm Golden Whites or Warm Whites and 680 Ohm 1/8 watt resistors (one each per LED), because I've found that some of the stock bulbs in the Proto 2000 series can draw a LOT of amperage (I'm talking 90mA per bulb!).

If I were to do it, I'd remove weight under rear fans of the long hood with a milling machine (or hacksaw, if you want) to fit a self-contained speaker like the Railmaster Hobbies DS1436-8. It's a little larger and ported (plus has it's own enclosure), so you can get a little more volume. It's the standard speaker I use in small spaces (except switchers). I am getting some of the small speakers (to tinker with) that Railflyer is offering, as they look nice and would fit in places the DS1436-8s may not without some mill work.

 

[diburning]

Yes, there's no place to put a speaker in the older protos since they fill every space with the weight. I don't know whether the TSU-1000 will fit where the old board was. To be safe, I would use a TSU-AT1000 or the TSU-GN1000 which are a board types and are a lot thinner. The GN is slightly thicker, but has board-mounted capacitors; while the AT has a separate capacitor that you will need to find a space to hide.

 

[Promagstyle]

Hmm..... I will definitely try those suggestions out first and speak to my local Railroad Model Hobby shop before I proceed, because I don't intend to short out anything yet.

I haven't ran this engine yet on a Straight DC layout, because I have just replaced all the broken gears and have oiled them using molly lube.

Keep your suggestions coming, thanks.

 

[ICG/SOU]

Another option, if you have access to a milling machine, you can just mill an enclosure out of the rear weight, underneath where the rear light is milled for now. Basically, the rear weight becomes your enclosure, and you seal the edges with silicone aquarium sealant (Devcon works well).

 

[diburning]

Test the loco out on DC first! If it runs poor on DC, it won't run any better on DCC. The most common misconception is that DCC can fix running problems.

 

[smlull163]

Personal Experience with Proto 2000 GP38-2

Promagstyle, I agree with others in this thread. You've picked a beauty to start off with! It's tough.

My experience (your mileage may vary):

A Proto 2000 GP38-2, the weight in it looks like the GP7. Fills every available spot. wiring with mine was an known/reported issue. I changed the decoder, plus both trucks from Proto 2000 to Atlas and changed a number of other items. It currently is my best running pulling loco on the layout. I went Digitrax DH165LO as the decoder. After watching some youtube video's. Try this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzpR4G0ZC7Q&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XZdpJLl3AA
I've emailed Tommie on Youtube and he is very responsive and full of knowledge.

I did follow his idea on the Digitrax, soundbug, Tony's Trains mini oval with enclosure into a low nose GP38-2. I decided NOT to cut the weight at all. That was a mistake. I tried to hide the speaker in the cab, it fits, but just barely. There is no room at all near the radiator fans.

I took the easy way out. I put together a dummy GP35, put the sound bug, a 1.1" QSi speaker and a TF4 transponder to run lights and this "dummy" is the sound for my GP38-2.

I still have 2 more proto 2000 GP38-2's to work on, so each time I learn something.

If you have questions (I'll try to find pictures) please let me know.

Scott

 

[diburning]

If you want to keep the P2K bulbs, test them with a battery first. P2K uses 1.5 volt bulbs and 12 volt bulbs. If the bulb lights up, then it's a 1.5 volt bulb and it can be hooked into one of the board-replacement type Tsunamis. If the bulb barely lights, it's a 12 volt bulb and you'll probably want to replace it since it generates A LOT of heat. P2K typically used the 1.5Vs in the headlights, and 12Vs in the numberboard lights although if the factory screwed up, they may have used the wrong bulbs.

 

[TexasMidlandrRR]

Another option, if you have access to a milling machine, you can just mill an enclosure out of the rear weight, underneath where the rear light is milled for now. Basically, the rear weight becomes your enclosure, and you seal the edges with silicone aquarium sealant (Devcon works well).

Thanks for these tips, I'm doing the sane proto 2000 engine and has been a job, I've milled, with dermel, bigger place for purple packaged Tsunami, and made a spot for the Cap. I was going to mount that speaker in the cab and it will go there, but I will have to make a sound box for it in the back I could just mill a spot uder a fan, I'll check into that.