Ignorant question about couplers

[diburning]

The old Athearn Blue Box cars had major coupler height issues (too low). Shimming the trucks was your only option.

The later Athearn Blue Box (and current RTR) 50' FMC Box cars have their couplers too high (they are at the correct height with the McHenrys, but if you convert to kadees they will be too high). All you need to do with those is take the coupler box out, flip it upside down, put in the kadee, and mount it back on the car.

MDC/Roundhouse cars always has their coupler height too low. Converting those cars to metal wheels is also a pain. If the car prototypically has 36" wheels, the car will be tooled for them, but will come with 33" plastic wheels. If you put in 36" wheels, and hte coupler height is then correct, the flanges will catch on the underside details on the car. An example of that would be the 52'6" (they call it a 50') modern gondola. With their 50' box cars, they are a little better. The car still needs to be shimmed after the 36" wheels are on so you won't have any problems there.

Kadee makes a coupler for anything and everything. If all else fails, glue a kadee coupler box onto the car

 

[tooter]

I use Kadee #5's and #148 on most of my rolling stock, including those that have truck mountings. The notable exception is for covered hoppers and tank cars for which I use #119 shelf couplers. Some of my stock has McHenry couplers with the metal springs. These get replaced with Kadee's as soon as they fail.

Even though I'm pretty new to all this...
I followed the advice of comments just like yours about Kadees, and have been so totally pleased with their uniformly fine quality, brilliantly simple design, and how well they operate with the magnetic between-the-rails uncouplers.

Now on any old kits I put together, I always put Kadees on them. Recently got an old Roundhouse engine with those funny couplers on it, and the Kadee #148's popped right in and operate flawlessly.

I even like the really cool old fashioned 1950's style printing on their envelopes. It feels like I'm participating in a time honored model railroading tradition.


Greg

 

[flyboy2610]

I even like the really cool old fashioned 1950's style printing on their envelopes. It feels like I'm participating in a time honored model railroading tradition.


Greg

You are!!

 

[eTraxx]

Even though I'm pretty new to all this...
... I even like the really cool old fashioned 1950's style printing on their envelopes.
Greg

Which .. since I was born 1950 .. either "really cool" .. or "old fashioned". Prob the second ...

 

[tooter]

The 50's were cool because I was born in the 40's...

 

[Lester Perry]

I use Kadee #5's and #148 on most of my rolling stock, including those that have truck mountings. The notable exception is for covered hoppers and tank cars for which I use #119 shelf couplers. Some of my stock has McHenry couplers with the metal springs. These get replaced with Kadee's as soon as they fail.

And they will.

Go with Kadee now and don't look back. Like others have said much of the stuff from 70 & 80s is not worth the effort depending on the manufacturer.

 

[diburning]

I change the couplers out to Kadees or Proto MAX before putting the car on the tracks. That way, I won't have any problems at the club where a car would derail and uncouple then crash into someone else's train!

Proto MAX is the Walthers version of the Kadee #5. They are almost identical except the Proto MAX allows for a bit more slack.

I find that the 119s look more realistic than the 118s, are easier to install, and a lot easier to uncouple.