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How do you test your trackwork to make sure it's getting the best power (volts/amps/watts/ohms...??) possible....? What kind of tool do you use, and what readings should I be looking for...? I fear my trackwork is a little suspect when I get a very dim headlight on my engine, and the engines don't go very fast even with the throttle all the way up.
I have about 175 feet of track, 3 continuous circular lines that switch into each other at several locations, on a 12x15x12x15 bench with a duckunder. I use 12 gauge wire for my main bus, with 20 gauge feeders, about 10 of them, spaced about 5 feet apart, with more to be added.
It is one of the more fancy and expensive models out there. If you're looking for a cheap tool, go to radio shack and get a cheap analog voltmeter and test different sections of your track.
To solve the low voltage problem, add feeders to the sections of track where the voltage drops. If those sections already have feeders, then it may be a different problem altogether...
I'm guessing your track is nickel-silver and it and the loco wheels are clean.
Does this happen with more than the one loco, and if so what type.
Do you get diferent speeds at diferent places? sounds like you havd enough feeders.
You sure have lots of track, what power system are you using? So many variables to consider.
As Rico noted, sounds like you have enough feeders - Answers to his Q's will certainly help in "debugging".
As to your original Q - The "RRampmeter" from Tonys Trains is the *best* IMHO - For example, I can watch the current draw increase (by a few mA) as a loco goes uphill and reduce when coming down.
Cheers,
Ian
EDIT - I didn't check DI's link - It's the same piece of kit! - Sorry for the duplication!.... One other comment - Many "cheapo" meters don't do well with DCC - It's high frequency AC, and meters that measure that properly are few and far between.
Oops! You beat me Ian . Oh well, the more the better.
Sounds like you have plenty of feeders.
I would suspect low voltage from your command module if this is a problem in all areas. I hate to make corrections, but you need a digital meter to accurately measure a DCC signal, not an analog. You must be able to read true RMS voltage and a cheap analog will not do this. Don't be alarmed...many cheapy digitals can do this. Just look on the box or booklet before buying. Set meter on AC and voltage range of up to 20 volts(or equiv).
Besides a hand held meter, I use one similar to the one on Litchfield Station, but from Tony's Train Exchange http://tonystrains.com/products/pop-meters.htm. Mine is panel mounted (RRampmeter II) conveniently giving me voltage and current readings at a glance.
If I could only get one of the two suggested, i would go with a hand held digital multimeter.
Sorry, I left out the most important detail. I am running DCC, with a Digitrax DCS50 and do not have any kind of circuit breaker installed. My Digitrax is wired straight to my bus wires.....
Where can I purchase a basic circuit breaker for my setup......?
Do you mean DB150? If so, it has built in protection and you do not need a breaker on the output side. Only the power supply output (to the command center) needs a breaker if not already built in.
Sorry, I left out the most important detail. I am running DCC, with a Digitrax DCS50 and do not have any kind of circuit breaker installed. My Digitrax is wired straight to my bus wires.....
Where can I purchase a basic circuit breaker for my setup......?
With respect, that's a totally different question!
The DCS50 (Zephyr) does a pretty good job of protecting itself in case of overload/short - Test it with the "nickel trick" and it'll shut down - No circuit breakers needed.
Having said that, I put a 3A fuse on the input line to the track - It's never blown, but also my trusty RRampmeter has never shown more than ~2.5A draw either.
To answer Rico's question, I have about 95% nickle-silver track and 5% brass track that I've cleaned up really well. If I get the RRampmeter, what reading should I be looking for...? I'm new at all this......
Jay, I have a $15 digital multi-meter from a box store. Needs a small battery for the greyscale LCD display. When I power up my rails and find dead spots, it is almost always an unsoldered joiner nearby. Occasionally dirty rails needing a scrub with a bit of wood or 600 grit paper, maybe only an alcohol wipe....but if those don't get me running, I whip out the meter and turn the dial to volts AC, in the 20 volt range. With the load of any one other DCC/sound engine on any part of my rail system making steamer noises, moving or not, I either get a reading of about 14-15 volts or I get a very low number or zero. If I can get someone to place their finger over any next joiner, either rail, either side of the dead engine, I'll see the meter jump to full voltage if the one being pressed is the culprit. The temporary fix is to squeeze the joiner or crimp it, or best to get out the soldering stuff and warm up the iron.
If the light is dim and speed limited everywhere on the track, it almost has to be the power source. "Not enough feeds" will result in variable speed with distance from feeds, not uniformly slow speeds.
A standard meter will work perfectly. There is no need for anything special. Even an analog meter will work, like a Simpson 260 or similar. The problem is you need to measure the track and the power source with a load on the track or power source to really be sure things are working properly.
I have a 10 ohm 25 watt resistor I clip across the rails when I check for problems. This draws around 1.5 amperes, and will show high resistance turnout power through (I've had that problem), bad rail joiners (I've had that problem), or any other problem. It will also tell you IF the track REALLY needs more feeds. Then you don't have to guess, and you can put the feeds where needed.
A resistor load with a meter across it will tell you everything you need to know with no guessing. If you don't draw significant current from the rail in a test, you are kidding yourself about the value of the test even if you have a $500 lab meter.
. Oh well, the more the better.
