How do you fill in the grooves for traction tires if you don't want them any more?

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Colorado Midland Modeler

Colorado Midland Modeler

Proudly modeling the CM, MT & SL in HO Scale
As per the thread title, I'd like to know how you can fill in the grooves because I don't want the traction tires on the below engine any more, so it will ride more level without them. I don't want to derail the pilot truck or front drivers because it's riding nose high. The tires that were on it were causing a wobble and impeding electrical pick up, and I believe, putting too much strain on the motor and gears with a train behind it. I know it's possible to do this, as I have a heavily modified Mantua that has clear evidence of the tire grooves being filled in. (It was that way when I got it) I'd rather slip the drivers or doublehead now and then than destroy the motor or gears.
Bachmann Midland Terminal 64 (My model) (3).jpg
Bachmann Midland Terminal 64 (My model) (2).jpg

Here's the Mantua's drivers. If you look closely at the upward facing forward and rear sets, you can see the fill I was referring to. It works electrically, but I have no idea what this person used on it.
Mantua CM 27 drivers (My model) (1).jpg

It's not possible to replace the rear drivers, so if anyone has suggestions, I would be most appreciative. Thanks!
 


santafewillie said:
Solder. Carefully! File when done to smooth out the surface. If you don't care about electrical pickup, use Black RTV silicone gasket maker (like Permatex), available at Walmart.
Click to expand...
I've thought about trying solder, but I'm not sure if I could do it without melting the plastic parts like the front hub cover. I should mention that this is a somewhat older Bachmann, one of the first versions with a can motor. Surprisingly it does not seem to have a cracked gear. As for the second suggestion, I'd prefer it if I could keep it as all wheel pickup. But, if I can't find anything else that may be the best option.
Kusojiji said:
Are the wheel sets readily available? I usually replace them if I can with the non-grooved ones.
Click to expand...
I've thought about changing wheels as well, but I don't know if it's possible to safely remove the crankpins and side rods without ruining it. According to one thing I looked up, it says that it would be very difficult. Thank you both for your suggestions, I will keep them in mind.
 
Other than replacing the driver with one that does NOT have the traction tire groove, there is no "good" way to remedy your issue unless you have access to a small lathe. You can machine off the lip on the wheel/tire, find a piece of tubing to fit tight over the tire OD, use lock-tight to secure it to the wheel, then turn the tubing down to the correct OD to match the other drivers. I've left out a few steps but you get the picture here I hope.

Even if you cleaned the traction tire groove extremely well, then applied some JB Weld in the groove, you will still need to chuck up the axle with the wheel, in a drill press or milling machine, run at low speed and use some fine sandpaper to achieve a round wheel/tire. And after all of that, how long will that "fix" last?
Low temp solder may work as a filler but how long will the solder last? Solder is softer than the original wheel/tires and may wear down in a short time.

John
 
Another option is to improve the tender pickups. The Athearn Consolidation uses axle end pickups instead of axle wipers so each truck picks up from both rails on both axles. I bought two sets from Horizon Hobbies. If you can wait, I can check fitment when I get back home.
 
westtexjohn said:
Other than replacing the driver with one that does NOT have the traction tire groove, there is no "good" way to remedy your issue unless you have access to a small lathe. You can machine off the lip on the wheel/tire, find a piece of tubing to fit tight over the tire OD, use lock-tight to secure it to the wheel, then turn the tubing down to the correct OD to match the other drivers. I've left out a few steps but you get the picture here I hope.

Even if you cleaned the traction tire groove extremely well, then applied some JB Weld in the groove, you will still need to chuck up the axle with the wheel, in a drill press or milling machine, run at low speed and use some fine sandpaper to achieve a round wheel/tire. And after all of that, how long will that "fix" last?
Low temp solder may work as a filler but how long will the solder last? Solder is softer than the original wheel/tires and may wear down in a short time.

John
Click to expand...

I've worked with JB-Weld a lot on different projects. Most unrelated to railroading.

I think if done correctly, the JB-Weld could last indefinitely. Particularly the 24 hour set formula. Not the 5 minute formula.

A little scuffing in the groove with Emery cloth 360°, and carefully filling the groove and leveling it with a sharp edge before setting up, could produce acceptable results long-term with minor sanding after curing.

I've machined this stuff, repaired engine block freeze plugs, cracks in water pump housings and timing chain covers. It is a very durable material.
 
RhB Michael said:
I've worked with JB-Weld a lot on different projects. Most unrelated to railroading.

I think if done correctly, the JB-Weld could last indefinitely. Particularly the 24 hour set formula. Not the 5 minute formula.

A little scuffing in the groove with Emery cloth 360°, and carefully filling the groove and leveling it with a sharp edge before setting up, could produce acceptable results long-term with minor sanding after curing.

I've machined this stuff, repaired engine block freeze plugs, cracks in water pump housings and timing chain covers. It is a very durable material.
Click to expand...
If I were to try to fix the traction tire issue, I think I would use the 24 hour to cure, JB Weld method. Getting the JB Weld to adhere to the wheel is key here for a successful outcome.
While the machine/lathe work may be best way to go, it is just out of reach for most folks including me.

John
 


Colorado Midland Modeler said:
As per the thread title, I'd like to know how you can fill in the grooves because I don't want the traction tires on the below engine any more, so it will ride more level without them. I don't want to derail the pilot truck or front drivers because it's riding nose high. The tires that were on it were causing a wobble and impeding electrical pick up, and I believe, putting too much strain on the motor and gears with a train behind it. I know it's possible to do this, as I have a heavily modified Mantua that has clear evidence of the tire grooves being filled in. (It was that way when I got it) I'd rather slip the drivers or doublehead now and then than destroy the motor or gears.View attachment 273979View attachment 273980
Here's the Mantua's drivers. If you look closely at the upward facing forward and rear sets, you can see the fill I was referring to. It works electrically, but I have no idea what this person used on it.View attachment 273981
It's not possible to replace the rear drivers, so if anyone has suggestions, I would be most appreciative. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Why can't you replace the rear drivers? If you could remove the cover plate, all you would need to do is unscrew the hexhead bolts from the connecting rods. Not sure if that is a Mantua, but if so, I think the 53-inch driver should work. just be sure the insulation on the one driver is on the same (should be the left with the locomotive upright and facing forward) side as the others.
 
Sorry I haven't responded sooner, been cleaning up some junk in my house's yard.😁 I did some digging on the web and think I may have found a solution. I read that you could put bands of metal on the wheels to fill in the grooves, so I cut some thin strips of brass sheet and spliced them in. It needs a few adjustments, but seems to be working well. I do appreciate all of your suggestions however, they will most likely come in handy on some future project. Thank you all!
 
Another possibility for ultra-cheap replacement of traction tires...............

I recently fixed a guy's HO scale 4-axle diesel loco for him. He reported that it had recently started making a r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r sound while running down the tracks on his layout. Cracked gear(s), per chance?

Closer inspection and troubleshooting revealed that there was one wheel on each truck that required a traction tire. Both traction tires were missing, and the noise it was making was not cracked gears, but rather the result of the wheel flanges now riding low enough to strike the molded-in spike heads on the ties.

What to do? I don't have much in the way of HO scale trains or spare parts. But after a quick brain-storming session, I came up with an idea. I went to my supply of heat-shrink tubing, and grabbed a piece of tubing slightly smaller in diameter than the loco's wheels. I carefully sliced off a couple of short lengths of the tubing, only about 1/16" long or so, just enough to fill the groove in the wheel. Like a little rubber band, in a way. Then taking a small, 90 degree awl, I worked one piece of tubing over each wheel. Since the heat-shrink tubing was smaller in diameter than the wheels, they had to stretch to fit over rim and slip into the grooves. Thus, no heat was necessary to shrink the tubing.

After reassembling everything and test running the loco, it ran just fine with no more noise. I haven't heard back from the guy, so I don't really know how long this fix will last. Hopefully quite awhile. I think he said he doesn't run that loco all that often to start with, so yeah, maybe it will last a long time. Hope so, anyway. 👍
 
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