ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
Without lifting them off the track that is? I am building a small switching layout. I've to the track laid, but no scenery or structures. Nonetheless, tonight I did an imaginary operating session.
Then I realzied that I don't know how to uncouple the cars? I tried a piece of styrene rod to try to detach them, but couldn't get them uncoupled while on the track.
So, what's the mystery? And is there anyway to do it "automatically" so to speak?
Your on the right track,all you need at this stage is a good coupler pick.
it needs to be able to slip in between the knuckles of the coupled cars forcing them apart.
A sharp piece of wood about 6" long used in cooking........a screwer ??
I thought the curved pins at the bottom of the couplers had something to do with it? If not, what are they supposed to represent? The air hose between the cars?
My Dad uses a Rix uncouplar tool, ithas a couple of magnets mounted each side of an arch and opens the knuckles without touching anything allowing you to then pull away from the car(s) intended to be left in place.
Many guys just use a thin wire or pick tool and even a round toothpick will work to force the knuckles open. I have used a small flathead pocket screwdriver but they can be a bit rough on your equipment.
Yes those are uncoupling pins. Kadee makes magnets that fit down in between the rails. When the cars are stopped over the magnet so there is slack between them, the pins are pulled to the opposite sides of the magnet. This opens the knuckles and uncouples the cars. They also make an electromagnet that can be activated avoiding accidental uncouplings.
There is a company that makes an upside down "U" shape device that has two magnets, one in each end of each of the "U"s. When placed between the cars near the couplers the magnets supposedly pull the couplers open. I have one. They don't work well.
Yet another company makes an uncoupling tool that has a zig-zag shaped wire on the end. Put the wire between the couplers and twist. The first time I used one it worked like a dream. I thougth "WOW, this is great!". I have never been able to get one to work like that again....???
I use the Kadee 'manual uncoupling tool' (#241). Though more expensive than a bamboo skewer, the different (like $1) isn't going to break the bank. I find it works very well. It also doubles as a spring pic to replace springs on the couplers. Best to buy 2 or 3 as they are like pens, they hide when you need them.
Under the track permanent magnets are a good choice for hard to reach places, as Motely points out. The advantage of under the track magnets is that they are much easier to install than between the track types. Though between the track magnets look easier, they must be carefully aligned parrallel to the track and at the right height, to a high level of precision. There is a gauge for fixing between the track mangnets and I recomened using it if you choose to go this way.
Both types of permanent magnets have the problem of causing accidental uncouplings due to back and forth movement of cars in a train. This can be very annoying. The solution is to have more friction on 1 in 3 cars. One method is to use part of a kadee coupler spring on one axle point (ie: between axle and truck side frame). Another is the fabricate a brass strip which pushes down on one axle. The added friction keeps the string of cars taunt and this avoids accidential incoupling.
The cost of having a few cars with increasing friction is that long trains become harder to pull. So, many people like under the track electro magnet uncouplers. This allows them to avoid accidential uncouplings while retaining low friction rolling stock to make up long trains.
The cost of electro magnetics is a higher purchase price and an extra system to maintain. Typically the more expensive and fussy electro magnetics are used on mainlines where an automatic uncopuler is needed (eg: where banking engines are cut out or passenger trains change engines).
Ok, after all that, I'd suggest using the kadee uncoupling tool as it works better than skewers, and under the track magnets as Motely suggests. Some people cut the trip pin off their kadees and use skewers exclusively. Just to be controversial, I can't see why they don't just use sargents couplers if they are going to do that. (ducks for cover)
I'll second almost everything PaulB mentioned. That last sentence is just too controversial to agree with ;D Besides, modifying them makes them incompatible with other modelers' fleets. Why isolate yourself?
I agree with what Paul said, except for the Sargent's, that is. I think of them as the MTH of couplers. That is to say, its a proprietary system, its totally incompatible with the majority of what everyone else is using, and.....well you get the gist.
I just started trying the magnets from Kadee. I tried the "non-delayed" ones. That is good for simply uncoupling, and that is it. If you just want to drop a car off, that will work. I wanted the ability to uncouple and then push back the car(s). So I changed out to the "delayed" magnets. Man are they great. Place the car over the magnet, Then reverse the loco and pull away from the cars, uncoupled. Then you can simply change the loco direction and push back the cars away from the magnet. Once the cars are away from the magnet, the couplers return to the normal position, then you can re-couple. Works slick. I have three magnets at the beginning of my spurs.
Be careful to make sure you have the magnet centered between the rails. That is critical. Oh, and make sure the magnet is raised 1/64th above the rails. Kadee makes a template for gluing the magnet in the center, but one can eyeball it pretty close. Detailed instructions come with the magnets. Go for the "delayed, not the "non-delayed". You won't regret it.
I am using Easy-Track. The magnets fit nicely between the rails, and do not require any tie removal. Just glue and go!
