HO Trolley Shelf Layout Planning

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belloli

New Member
Hi All.

Hoping to get back into the hobby after archiving my stock and accessories from when I was a kid, way too many years ago. No room in the house for a full layout, so thinking about an HO shelf layout for a trolley line in an urban Main Street. Looking for resources and sites to review to start me back down this road again. Thinking ‘40s-ish for period. (If it ever expands should fit the transitional era and could allow my steam and diesel equipment to see a new day.)

Generally thinking 20-24” deep with a double track line along a city street. Maybe find a way to do a dogbone at the end to keep it as a full circuit? Not sure that that will work, but more of a possibility with a trolley than other rolling stock.

What guidance do you have and what do I need to be thinking about now as I start planning? Other thoughts? TIA!
 
Curve radius would be at the top of my list for a dogbone plan. 24" isn't much to work with and 20" is even worse. Two axle trollies should be OK on a 12" radius, but I don't know about 10". A turntable at each end would fix this, but you would be forever turning trollies instead of enjoying the scenery.

Welcome aboard.
 
Thanks. Been considering making the benchwork a dogbone as well, or at least at one end. Figuring either way, trolleys are reversible and can set up an automatic reverse option along the way, too. At least in my head! Helpful insight.
 


Like most things minimum radius depends on many factors. Already touched on is whether your are running two axle trolleys, or two truck. And some will mater on the manufacture of the equipment or even the level of accuracy. Bachman has two different level of PCC trolleys, one that really sits too high, but can go around tighter curves than the more prototypically accurate one. Also will depend if you run single cars or a trailer, the two cars could bind on each other where a single car could negotiate tighter curves.

As for resources I would go to the East Penn Traction club pages at: https://www.eastpenn.org/ And the NMRA's recommended practices at: https://www.nmra.org/index-nmra-standards-and-recommended-practices (RP-5.x is about traction) One thing they talk about that is prototype cars would be designed to negotiate 35' radius for cities. Which is slightly smaller than 5 inches in HO: 35 * 12 / 87.1
 
24" is plenty wide for single-truck or even double-truck trolleys. This is a 24"x36" piece of MDF with a few pieces of Atlas flextrack (and a couple straight snap-tracks) with 7" radius curves. Not only does it run single-truck trolleys, I also ran my double-truck streetcars on it, which worked just fine (a Bachmann Brill, which you can find at train shows for under $20), but I also ran 50' Suydam double-truck interurbans on it with no problem at all (not connected into a train, of course, but you don't have to!) I also tested my Bachmann 44 tonner, which ran just fine on these curves.

The lower right corner is a little tricky (I measured it out and it's actually a 6" curve not 7") but I can fix that with a few minutes and a razor saw. My plan is to turn this into a 2'x3' mini display streetcar layout, with a block of houses in the middle--a very common streetcar "pizza" layout plan from the old days of trolley modeling. If you wanted a bit more safety, you could build something like this and scoot the tracks back an inch or so from the edge, and expand the curves to 8-9" radius, but I like to live a little dangerously.

20251015_164833.jpg


Also, this is just an experiment I whipped up in an evening to spur my plans for a mini layout--my main layout is an around-the-room interurban shelf layout, which has mostly been point-to-point but I recently completed a project to make an entire lap around the room (disrupted by a plan to flip the entire layout so I don't have to duck to enter it.) It's a lot more generous in terms of space constraints, since I'm running multi-car trains and pulling railroad-standard (for the 1940s) freight cars--12" minimum radius, 15" on the mainline, running both passengers and freight. And streetcars.

20250905_203136.jpg


As far as your plan (shelf layout with dog-bone ends) I'd recommend strongly considering making the middle of the "dog bone" even narrower, and just model one street with two-way streetcar traffic; you can push the tracks toward the front of the shelf and model full buildings, or model them as background flats, which would be a pretty satisfactory approach. My own layout is mostly 12" deep, but I do have a couple of stub peninsulas, one 3' deep and 2' wide for an industrial spur, and one 2' deep and 4' wide for a city scene--and it's where I have the most trouble reaching in to clean and maintain track, despite the farthest track being only 21" from the layout edge, because of the overhead messenger wire (I don't model live overhead) and the tall buildings in the foreground! However, it's manageable, and my new plan will let me access it from both sides; all the rest of the sections I have planned will be 12" wide or accessible from both sides! And if you're planning this as a table rather than a shelf, you could model both sides of a single block with single or double track streetcars in 24-30" quite comfortably.

You could also integrate a streetcar scene into a future model railroad (I'm a big advocate of growing sectional shelf layouts from a single module)--you could have a streetcar loop that runs to the front steps of a railroad passenger train station, then build the passenger railroad from the station to its destination when you have enough room!

20251029_211249.jpg



Sadly, trolleyville.com has gone dormant, but you can find a lot of incredibly useful information on the archive.org copy of Trolleyville on streetcar modeling.

 
24" is plenty wide for single-truck or even double-truck trolleys. This is a 24"x36" piece of MDF with a few pieces of Atlas flextrack (and a couple straight snap-tracks) with 7" radius curves. Not only does it run single-truck trolleys, I also ran my double-truck streetcars on it, which worked just fine (a Bachmann Brill, which you can find at train shows for under $20), but I also ran 50' Suydam double-truck interurbans on it with no problem at all (not connected into a train, of course, but you don't have to!) I also tested my Bachmann 44 tonner, which ran just fine on these curves.

The lower right corner is a little tricky (I measured it out and it's actually a 6" curve not 7") but I can fix that with a few minutes and a razor saw. My plan is to turn this into a 2'x3' mini display streetcar layout, with a block of houses in the middle--a very common streetcar "pizza" layout plan from the old days of trolley modeling. If you wanted a bit more safety, you could build something like this and scoot the tracks back an inch or so from the edge, and expand the curves to 8-9" radius, but I like to live a little dangerously.

View attachment 248572

Also, this is just an experiment I whipped up in an evening to spur my plans for a mini layout--my main layout is an around-the-room interurban shelf layout, which has mostly been point-to-point but I recently completed a project to make an entire lap around the room (disrupted by a plan to flip the entire layout so I don't have to duck to enter it.) It's a lot more generous in terms of space constraints, since I'm running multi-car trains and pulling railroad-standard (for the 1940s) freight cars--12" minimum radius, 15" on the mainline, running both passengers and freight. And streetcars.

View attachment 248573

As far as your plan (shelf layout with dog-bone ends) I'd recommend strongly considering making the middle of the "dog bone" even narrower, and just model one street with two-way streetcar traffic; you can push the tracks toward the front of the shelf and model full buildings, or model them as background flats, which would be a pretty satisfactory approach. My own layout is mostly 12" deep, but I do have a couple of stub peninsulas, one 3' deep and 2' wide for an industrial spur, and one 2' deep and 4' wide for a city scene--and it's where I have the most trouble reaching in to clean and maintain track, despite the farthest track being only 21" from the layout edge, because of the overhead messenger wire (I don't model live overhead) and the tall buildings in the foreground! However, it's manageable, and my new plan will let me access it from both sides; all the rest of the sections I have planned will be 12" wide or accessible from both sides! And if you're planning this as a table rather than a shelf, you could model both sides of a single block with single or double track streetcars in 24-30" quite comfortably.

You could also integrate a streetcar scene into a future model railroad (I'm a big advocate of growing sectional shelf layouts from a single module)--you could have a streetcar loop that runs to the front steps of a railroad passenger train station, then build the passenger railroad from the station to its destination when you have enough room!

View attachment 248574


Sadly, trolleyville.com has gone dormant, but you can find a lot of incredibly useful information on the archive.org copy of Trolleyville on streetcar modeling.

Rereading this again, William. Amazing information. Many, many thanks. One clarification: you make your own curves with flex track instead of using an off the shelf radius curve. Correct? Again, really helpful!
 
Rereading this again, William. Amazing information. Many, many thanks. One clarification: you make your own curves with flex track instead of using an off the shelf radius curve. Correct? Again, really helpful!
Yes, that's just Atlas Code 100 flex track. About 20 years ago I made a set of radius tools out of poster board with a compass and ruler--just a set of semicircles in 6", 7", 8", 9" and 10" radius, to measure out curves on subroadbed. I bent the flextrack by hand to line up the track nail holes with the curve by eye, drilled a small pilot hole in the roadbed with a pin vise, and shoved in track nails. The straight sections on the demo layout are 9" Atlas Code 100 Snap-Track.
 
Yes, that's just Atlas Code 100 flex track. About 20 years ago I made a set of radius tools out of poster board with a compass and ruler--just a set of semicircles in 6", 7", 8", 9" and 10" radius, to measure out curves on subroadbed. I bent the flextrack by hand to line up the track nail holes with the curve by eye, drilled a small pilot hole in the roadbed with a pin vise, and shoved in track nails. The straight sections on the demo layout are 9" Atlas Code 100 Snap-Track.
Great. Really helpful. Thanks William!
 




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