HO engine

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michaeljoe

Well-Known Member
While looking at different train stuff on Facebook, (marketplace) I ran across this train locomotive.

The description said that the engine was rubber band powered. I'm sure everyone here knows about this type of motor (maybe not) but it's the first time I've ever heard of this.

I'm wondering how reliable is this type of power?
Thanks.
 

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Great novelty engine and I have several but they don’t pull much and are more like slot cars on rails. My very first train set back mid 60’s had the hustler version and it ran well as long as the bands were ok. If you have one and need bands for it one of the sizes of bands for braces will work
Ok thanks, but I don't have any.
From the info. I learned here I don't. think I'll buy any like that.

But another question, would that engine body work on a regular locomotive chassis?
 
Ok thanks, but I don't have any.
From the info. I learned here I don't. think I'll buy any like that.

But another question, would that engine body work on a regular locomotive chassis?
Yes, the shell will fit later Athearn F units.
Just be aware by the time you buy this, and a second one for the running gear, you could most likely found a better version for the same price, if not less, accounting for shipping with the purchase prices.
 
I had a couple of those back in the fifties. With new rubber bands, they ran slowly very jerky, give them a little more throttle and you were traveling at Warp Factor 2 (that's 8 times the speed of light for those that didn't watch the original Star Trek). The little hustler-type loco I ran could take a 12 inch radius easily; but not at Warp Speed. The would launch into the air and going flying off my 4x8 layout
 


Athearn used rubber-band drives to significantly reduce the prices of its F7, GP7, Hustler, and RDC locomotives. The rubber-bands eliminated the universals, worm gear, idler gears, and gear boxes, and the accompanying noise. The rubber-bands were like twisted pulley belts from the extended electric motor shaft to pulley drums on the drive axles. All the bands need to be twisted in the same direction.
The poor ratio of the motor shaft to drum diameters means that they are faster than geared locomotives, hence the fame of the high speed of the 300 mph 4-wheeled Hustler. The rubber-bands lasted well enough, but the rubber did age with time as rubber-bands tend to do - become brittle with exposure to the oxygen in the air. I find them easy to change, but many hate the simple job.
The extra tension load of the rubber-bands does mean the axle bearings need good lubrication to prevent wearing, but do not get any lube on the extended motor shaft or axle drums. Getting rid of the extra friction also reduces the band stretching due to load changes which cause the infamous speed surging.
The old age of these Athearn units from around the 1960s means that the wheel and flange profile is pre-NMRA RP-25 Recommended Practice; slightly larger and sharp flanges.
Years ago ( before DCC ) my friend found that his rubber-banded Athearn GP7 locomotive made an excellent head-end helper or rear-end pusher. The heavier road locomotive and train completely eliminated all rubber-band surging. Its relative light weight prevented it from over-pushing.
 
I was on the Engineer Bill TV show in 1957 on KHJ TV in SoCal. I remember my dad making a 4x8 plywood layout table (which I thought was huge). I had a paper route at the time and I spent my entire pay on trains (still do that in 2024). I remember buying an Athearn "Hi-F Drive" Hustler for about $9.00 back then...don't know the exact date; but it was in the fifties
 
I have a number of Athearn Hi-F F7's and I'm a fan of them. I use an A-B consist of them to pull a very loosely interpreted version of the Santa Fe Super Chief. Yes, they do require a lot of voltage to start, and don't do slow speed well. But, for pulling a reasonable length passenger train at a good clip they do it smoothly, quietly, and effortlessly. I like to run passenger trains at an exciting speed. The Hi-F drive is capable of slinging the cars off the track in corners.

The maintenance on them is not too bad. I disassemble the motors and clean/polish the armatures and properly set armature end play with shim washers. I have experimented with good success the addition of small neodymium magnets on either side of the open frame motors to boost their efficiency and power by quite a bit. This also improves their low speed operation. If you are on DC and use a pulse type power supply then acceptable, but not prototypical slow speed can be had.

I use small silicone tubing for the shaft connections, and polish the friction areas where the driveshafts go thru the stanchions. I lube the motor bushings, stanchions, wheel bearing bushings, and clean up the screw-connection electrical contacts. These are 'all wheel pickup', and 'all wheel drive' locos. Not bad, for fifties technology. As mentioned, the 'rubber bands' can be as simple as a certain size Goodys 'hair band' from Walmart. You have to disassemble the trucks to change bands, but its not a bad job. They last a reasonable amount of time before needing changed.

Even though these were designed by Athearn to bring costs down to affordable levels back in the 50's, I find they are built well. Dead simple, and everything (motors, frame, trucks) are nicely cast metal and good materials that stand up to time. I've rehabbed 5-6 of them and they all run well after a good going-over. Parts units are cheap to come by as many folks hate them. I rather enjoy rehabbing them and running them!
 




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