Help With Wireing Up Several Modules

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BNSF_Denali_Sub

BNSF_Denali_Sub

BNSF SD70MAC's
Hi guys

wondering if somebody can help me out here. Some of you may have read/heard about my plans for the M&ET modules that im going to be starting, yeah i know i keep saying im going to start them and then keep delaying :o but there coming soon i promise :D

How am i going to wire these things? I just counted on my plan and all together 34 modules in all :eek: :D lol (mind you this is modeling work for years to come).

I want to be able to run a few modules at a time. Take maybe a set of 4-5 modules from the storage racks and string them together so its one long line 30' long (each and every module is 60" long). Ive never wired anything before, so this is going to be my first go at it all. I have read and understand how to do feeders and the bus wire and such, im just concerned how im going to connect each module's wires?

I am going to be using a MRC Prodigy Wireless DCC System if this helps. Any and all advise, suggestions.... are welcome, and thanks in advance :D
 
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I'm using simple terminal strips for the bus wires on my modular layout, but my modules aren't designed to be moved unless I relocate to another house so they require you to get under the layout with a screw driver. An alternate solution is to use some sort of jack and plug so it can be easily "unplugged" when you want to move or store a module.
 


I'd stick with the Free-Mo standards as well. They are well proven and there's no point to remaking the wheel.
 
Trucklover said:
Hi guys

wondering if somebody can help me out here. Some of you may have read/heard about my plans for the M&ET modules that im going to be starting, yeah i know i keep saying im going to start them and then keep delaying :o but there coming soon i promise :D

How am i going to wire these things? I just counted on my plan and all together 34 modules in all :eek: :D lol (mind you this is modeling work for years to come).

I want to be able to run a few modules at a time. Take maybe a set of 4-5 modules from the storage racks and string them together so its one long line 30' long (each and every module is 60" long). Ive never wired anything before, so this is going to be my first go at it all. I have read and understand how to do feeders and the bus wire and such, im just concerned how im going to connect each module's wires?

I am going to be using a MRC Prodigy Wireless DCC System if this helps. Any and all advise, suggestions.... are welcome, and thanks in advance :D
Click to expand...

Hi Josh,

There are several ways to carry over power from module to module, i use bannana plugs or a similar type you only need two bus wires to each end for continuos running and accesories can be done the same way use different colors for each mode of power though to save mix ups and stick to a color code.

Another way i see often over here on layouts is D connectors though the pins are too fine for my bus wire size :D
 
hey thanks for all the replies guys :D

I had forgotten about the standards on the Free-Mo site, dont ask :mad: was a long day LOL


jbaakko said:
Free-mo requires Digitrax!!
Click to expand...

are you serious? :o

Okay well here is what i was going to do. i was going to do only 8 of the modules (the 8 mainline mods containing the BNSF double track mainline and the BNSF/M&ET Interchange yard) to full Free-Mo Standards. This means those 8 would be built to exact Free-Mo standards (benchwork construction, wireing.....) and the rest of the modules would be loosely based on the Free-Mo Standards

Now what difference is it going to make if i wire them all the same? I thought you just plug the DCC System in to your wiring work and bam your done? Is there separate ways to wire for Digitrax and MRC?

Im confused lol
 
After reading through the wiring standards for Free-Mo, it sounds like that i HAVE to use Digitrax and wire it with loconet. So its looking like i will not be doing these to Free-Mo standards after all.

I do not want to use Digitrax at all and im not willing to pay the huge price for the systems from Digitrax lol. Why do that when you can get a MRC Prodigy Wireless for half the price that does all that one of the top Digitrax Systems does (Super Chief) and more! lol

So back to my original question and forget about the Free-Mo standards. Those of you with modules, how are you wiring them? Mine will not be permanent and they will be moved around alot, so i need them to be connected as easily as possible lol
 


I hear Anderson's were iffy on quality... Only a rumor though.

Josh, as for Digitrax, just set it all up for BOTH... I'm sure it can be done, with a DPDT switch, to swap between them? You don;t need to buy a full Digitrax system, just the required components...
 
Trucklover said:
After reading through the wiring standards for Free-Mo, it sounds like that i HAVE to use Digitrax and wire it with loconet. So its looking like i will not be doing these to Free-Mo standards after all.

I do not want to use Digitrax at all and im not willing to pay the huge price for the systems from Digitrax lol. Why do that when you can get a MRC Prodigy Wireless for half the price that does all that one of the top Digitrax Systems does (Super Chief) and more! lol

So back to my original question and forget about the Free-Mo standards. Those of you with modules, how are you wiring them? Mine will not be permanent and they will be moved around alot, so i need them to be connected as easily as possible lol
Click to expand...

Maybe you could reconsider. Your talent and enthusiasm for this hobby will serve you well down the road on your new layout and would be a great asset to the Free-mo community now.

Space and time are hard assets to come by. A Free-mo module would allow you to model a portion of your steel mill now and give you the ability to join up with one of several California Free-mo groups for a larger set-up. The mobility of the module would allow you to take it with you to wherever the next few years lead you. Down the road when space presents itself you'll be able to build your module into your permanent layout.

Free-mo isn't for everyone but it is the right solution for some.

Just a thought.
 
Another option for connecting wires... I've used this type of connector from Radio Shack for accessories in my Jeep. They come with pin counts from 2 to 12.

You could use a larger connector to run bus lines for your tracks, and these multi-wire connectors to run all of the accessory wires and remote turnout wires. Plenty of options if you choose not to follow the free-mo standards.

Doug
 
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Josh,
Can't say anything about the quality on Power Poles, except from experience......... Our club has 40 NTrak modules (20 connectors per module----800 total) that have been setup/torn down dozens of times with zero problems except for one contact pulling out of the housing. It was pushed back in and has been fine ever since, so probably just a bad job of assembly. From an NTRAK standpoint they're a BIG improvement over the old Chinch-Jones plugs. Some of the other options mentioned should work for smaller gauge wire, but most are not suitable for 10 or 12 gauge bus wires.
 
Dougget said:
Another option for connecting wires... I've used this type of connector from Radio Shack for accessories in my Jeep. They come with pin counts from 2 to 12.

You could use a larger connector to run bus lines for your tracks, and these multi-wire connectors to run all of the accessory wires and remote turnout wires. Plenty of options if you choose not to follow the free-mo standards.

Doug
Click to expand...

THose Radio Shack connectors can be probelmatic. Especially if you have to take them apart several times. With my FCSME modules, I have used them in the past for powering switch machines on adjecent modules, and have had issues with pulling them apart and pins pulling out and staying connected to each other:mad:
I'll be building the new modules with Cinch style connectors. Contrarary to popular belief, they still are available from Mouser and other sources. And yes, they are tough! I've slammed them in the trailer door, stepped on them and otherwise abused them and in 10 years, have NOT broken one! Our club uses the 2 pin ones for each track bus, and 5 out of 6 pins for the "communication buss" for out NCE system. This setup, with properly spaced boosters, has allowed us to run a layout that has exceeded 5 scale miles of mainline run with as many as 15-20 active locos at one time! The rest of our modules follow NMRA spec, except for connecting tracks. We use 6 inch connectors, not the NMRA recommended 9.....it's just easier math!
 
MRLdave said:
N trak is now using Anderson power poles as the "standard" connector. Our club is using them and they seem to work great for both DC and DCC. You can get them in a variety of colors and sizes. I don't think they are any more costly than most of the other options out there, and the cost drops with quantity. Check them out.
http://www.andersonpower.com/products/singlepole-connectors.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, ill have to check them out and read more about them :D
 
jbaakko said:
I hear Anderson's were iffy on quality... Only a rumor though.

Josh, as for Digitrax, just set it all up for BOTH... I'm sure it can be done, with a DPDT switch, to swap between them? You don;t need to buy a full Digitrax system, just the required components...
Click to expand...

Wiring them for both could be a possibility, its something to think about lol
 
macjet said:
Maybe you could reconsider. Your talent and enthusiasm for this hobby will serve you well down the road on your new layout and would be a great asset to the Free-mo community now.

Space and time are hard assets to come by. A Free-mo module would allow you to model a portion of your steel mill now and give you the ability to join up with one of several California Free-mo groups for a larger set-up. The mobility of the module would allow you to take it with you to wherever the next few years lead you. Down the road when space presents itself you'll be able to build your module into your permanent layout.

Free-mo isn't for everyone but it is the right solution for some.

Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Well, im not giving up the Free-Mo idea totally, just basically thinking ill use my own way for wiring. im still using the Free-Mo standards as the base of these modules, and Josh gave me something to think about by setting it up for both me and running at shows and other free-mo guys. This could be a possibility, its just something i will have to think about lol

Right now for me, Modules are the way to go, something i can set up and then take apart and store them easily :D
 
Dougget said:
Another option for connecting wires... I've used this type of connector from Radio Shack for accessories in my Jeep. They come with pin counts from 2 to 12.

You could use a larger connector to run bus lines for your tracks, and these multi-wire connectors to run all of the accessory wires and remote turnout wires. Plenty of options if you choose not to follow the free-mo standards.
Click to expand...

kbkchooch said:
THose Radio Shack connectors can be probelmatic. Especially if you have to take them apart several times. With my FCSME modules, I have used them in the past for powering switch machines on adjecent modules, and have had issues with pulling them apart and pins pulling out and staying connected to each other:mad:
I'll be building the new modules with Cinch style connectors. Contrarary to popular belief, they still are available from Mouser and other sources. And yes, they are tough! I've slammed them in the trailer door, stepped on them and otherwise abused them and in 10 years, have NOT broken one! Our club uses the 2 pin ones for each track bus, and 5 out of 6 pins for the "communication buss" for out NCE system. This setup, with properly spaced boosters, has allowed us to run a layout that has exceeded 5 scale miles of mainline run with as many as 15-20 active locos at one time! The rest of our modules follow NMRA spec, except for connecting tracks. We use 6 inch connectors, not the NMRA recommended 9.....it's just easier math!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies Doug and Karl, i really appreciate them.

Karl, you are the second person to suggest the Cinch Style Connectors, another guy on the gauge suggested them as well. They look like they would work very well, and i figure i need about 30 pairs of them, thats about $150 which is not bad at all. I would by them about 10 at a time..... I need to look more into those Cinch Connectors, those really sound and look like they would work very well and effective. Im also going to look more into those Power Poles too :D

Thanks again for all your help guys :D
 


Trucklover said:
Well, im not giving up the Free-Mo idea totally, just basically thinking ill use my own way for wiring. im still using the Free-Mo standards as the base of these modules, and Josh gave me something to think about by setting it up for both me and running at shows and other free-mo guys. This could be a possibility, its just something i will have to think about lol

Right now for me, Modules are the way to go, something i can set up and then take apart and store them easily :D
Click to expand...

If you do decide to go with a Free-mo module or two remember that there is Free-mo and then there's everything else. A Free-mo module has to be compliant to a T. A pseudo Free-mo module will neither work nor be welcomed.
 
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