Help with proto 2000 gp-30

[meanjean]

So I buy this thing brand new last year. Right out of the box the axle gears are cracked. Told it was common and an easy fix. After paying for more for the gears to be shipped from Walthers I place them in the loco and it doesnt run right. It runs like its not getting electricity. The wheels are not making good contact or something. I checked the gauge to make sure its right. All Looks good. SO I then start checking the wiring. The little circuit boards wires are held on with tiny black clips. Double checked a few. STILL wont run right. Then I say forget the directional lights I just want this thing to run and remove the circuit board and little chip on the top. Hooked the wires up like an Athearn loco. It wont run smooth. Its not the track, cleaned it. The wheels are clean. It has maybe 10 seconds total run time. Is this thing worth sending to Walthers now that I have removed all the circuit boards? What are they going to charge me to fix this loco? My first Proto 2000 loco and probably my last. It looks greats sitting but runs like crap.
What should I do? I dont want to sink more money into this thing if I dont have to.

 

[jbaakko]

You changed all the gears correct? Did you check to make sure the wipers were still in contact with the wheels afterwords?

 

[UP2CSX]

Also, check all the gears for tiny burrs. Use a fine needle file and smoth out any you find. The P2K line has been getting worse and worse about checking gears on final assembly and even a tiny burr can make them run like crap.

 

[kbkchooch]

Check the new gearsets

Check the new gearsets and make sure the small square bearing on each side is not pinched between the plastic gear and the wheel, effectivley applying the brakes.
If it ran ok(but noisey) before swapping axles the ran worse after, then it has to be something in the lower end. Also make sure the lower covers are on right, and not binding on the axles.
Don't give up on the P2K locos. I've got a bunch, and the ONLY problem I have ever had has been axle gear related. I've even switched quite a few to Athearn gears. The diameter and teeth are the same, but the axle sleeves are thicker and more robust.

 

[el3637]

Contrary to popular rumor, there is a lot more wrong with Proto GP30s than the axle gears. The good news is you can fix it. Once you have replaced the axle gears, you're finding the loco will barely move, right? This is because the worms are gummed up with that worthless lubricant from the factory. It's a real mess. The motor bearings may be too. The GP30 - especially those made in the first run in 1999 - is the absolute worst of the bunch in terms of this gunking problem.

First take the whole thing apart. Gearboxes, everything. Clean and scrub that peanut butter goo off the gears and inside gearboxes. It is very tenacious... it will take multiple passes with dish detergent and a toothbrush to get it off. Then once you have everything clean and dry, inspection time. The three idler gears in each truck will probably be fine. Your axle gears are new, should be ok. The worm probably has a black plastic thrust bearing on each end. It is probably swollen and gumming up the works. You will need to pull the bearing block off, pull the U-joint off and remove these things and finish cleaning up the worm shaft. There may even be some corrosion on the worm shaft, or just tan or greenish residue from the lube. Get everything clean. Find some bronze thrust washers to replace the gooey ones, and shim it until the worm sets in the gearbox with just a tiny bit of fore-aft play *with* the worm cover snapped on.

Check the motor - if it rotates freely - I mean, it should spin just a bit and not feel binding at all - it's probably ok.

Put everything back together and if you're going to DCC, hard wire the truck pickups from the frame side directly to the decoder rather than jumping it to the giant weight. Throw the factory board away in either case - it has a lighting circuit that sucks a lot of juice from the motor.

I know it's a lot of work for a "new" locomotive, but the alternative is a new GP30 from Walthers for 2x, 3x what you paid. Walthers current production seems fine - I have several of them and they are good runners. Hard to say what 8, 9 years will do to them though. My 1999 GP30s ran ok when new, but were slow due to the light board. After sitting 8 years, they are almost all un-runnable without the tuneup I just described. But it is worth doing and can save you a bunch of $$.

Andy

 

[meanjean]

Thanks for all the help. I had done the tune up and cleaned the crap out of the gears. Still not luck. When it runs, it goes fast and there is no indication of binding. It acts like an electrical problem. A short in a wire some place or the motor. I checked the wipers and they look good. The little blocks on the axles dont sit in the side framers centered. The axle seems loose and shifts left to right. What ever the problem is its definetly a electical problem. I spoke with Walthers and they said I can return it and they will look at it. If not a warranty item the minimum fee is $50 plus the $10 for return shipping. Not to mention the $10 I paid to get it there. Now we are well over what I paid. I will take it to a local hobby shop. He said he will look at it and if its over $20 he would let me know.

Just frusterating for a "new" loco.

 

[meanjean]

Good News. The local hobby shop fixed the problem in less then 10 min. The gound wire for the motor goes to a screw ontop of the weighted part for lack of a better term. Well the weighted part was not grouned to the frame very well causing intermittent operation. Pulled it off, cleaned the paint off the frame and now there is positive contact between the 2. Needless to say, problem solved engine runs great.

 

[UP2CSX]

Faulty quality control takes its evil toll. Glad it didn't turn out to be a major problem.