Green Mountain Railroad Layout Build

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Made some more progress on the build the last couple weeks. It’s been a mixture of fun and frustration.

Being the goof that I am, I did not consider the corners of the L-girder modules and the fact that the plywood would not have any support towards the edge. To make matters worse, I also did not consider where I would mount the upright supports for the backdrop in those same areas. The last obstacle I had to overcome is that I originally considered a one foot tall backdrop. Found out this wouldn’t work as I planned to have 3” of foam as a base plus hills/mountains. The backdrop would simply disappear behind the landscape. All of these obstacles have led to many days of simply staring at the layout benchwork contemplating what to do.

After some trial and error, I have managed to find some solutions.

IMG_8844.jpeg


IMG_8845.jpeg


As you can see, I’ve extended the length of the upright supports. Originally, I was going to have a support every 12” but I combined the 14” pieces using some 1” x 1.5” blocks on each side to fasten two uprights together and spaced the uprights approximately every 3 ft, except for the corners.

The image below shows the corner that took me the longest to figure out. The biggest issue was that the upright supports needed support from multiple sides and it was tricky to keep everything straight and level.
IMG_8846.jpeg


The other corner below was significantly easier as I was able to use some extra cross members that I used for practice drilling to support the uprights.
IMG_8847.jpeg


After all the struggles and delays, everything is good except for one last problem area. I’ve mentioned in a previous post but the area at the end of the first module when you walk into the layout room is slightly lower than the rest of the module. This is due to some warped boards that I overlooked during construction.

IMG_8849.jpeg


You can see in the photo above that the end of the module sinks down a little resulting in the upright support leaning away from the wall. I am unsure of how to correct this issue so if you have any ideas, please let me know.

Despite all the setbacks, I’m still making progress, learning a lot, and most importantly having fun! Can’t wait to get the plywood and foam down so I can start laying track:)
 
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GuilfordRailman said:
View attachment 211407

You can see in the photo above that the end of the module sinks down a little resulting in the upright support leaning away from the wall. I am unsure of how to correct this issue so if you have any ideas, please let me know.
Click to expand...

Thought:
Get one of those anti-sag cable kits for doors. As you stand looking at the section, with the wall behind it, attach one end of the cable to the bottom of the right rear leg, and then the other end to the top of the left front. Tightening the cable should, in theory, pull the section back into square.
 
GuilfordRailman said:
Made some more progress on the build the last couple weeks. It’s been a mixture of fun and frustration.

Being the goof that I am, I did not consider the corners of the L-girder modules and the fact that the plywood would not have any support towards the edge. To make matters worse, I also did not consider where I would mount the upright supports for the backdrop in those same areas. The last obstacle I had to overcome is that I originally considered a one foot tall backdrop. Found out this wouldn’t work as I planned to have 3” of foam as a base plus hills/mountains. The backdrop would simply disappear behind the landscape. All of these obstacles have led to many days of simply staring at the layout benchwork contemplating what to do.

After some trial and error, I have managed to find some solutions.

View attachment 211403

View attachment 211404

As you can see, I’ve extended the length of the upright supports. Originally, I was going to have a support every 12” but I combined the 14” pieces using some 1” x 1.5” blocks on each side to fasten two uprights together and spaced the uprights approximately every 3 ft, except for the corners.

The image below shows the corner that took me the longest to figure out. The biggest issue was that the upright supports needed support from multiple sides and it was tricky to keep everything straight and level.
View attachment 211405

The other corner below was significantly easier as I was able to use some extra cross members that I used for practice drilling to support the uprights.
View attachment 211406

After all the struggles and delays, everything is good except for one last problem area. I’ve mentioned in a previous post but the area at the end of the first module when you walk into the layout room is slightly lower than the rest of the module. This is due to some warped boards that I overlooked during construction.

View attachment 211407

You can see in the photo above that the end of the module sinks down a little resulting in the upright support leaning away from the wall. I am unsure of how to correct this issue so if you have any ideas, please let me know.

Despite all the setbacks, I’m still making progress, learning a lot, and most importantly having fun! Can’t wait to get the plywood and foam down so I can start laying track:)
Click to expand...
Since part of your first module is lower than the rest of the module, leave the warped boards in place and screw new
boards to the sides of the warped boards so the tops of the new boards is level with the top of the layout. Very little,
if no ripping out of existing boards should be required and minimal new lumber should be required.

The vertical upright appears to be able to be remounted vertical with minimal effort.

Where do you find lumber with so few knots?
 
KB02 said:
Thought:
Get one of those anti-sag cable kits for doors. As you stand looking at the section, with the wall behind it, attach one end of the cable to the bottom of the right rear leg, and then the other end to the top of the left front. Tightening the cable should, in theory, pull the section back into square.
Click to expand...
That’s an interesting idea! I’ll have to look into it more. Thanks!
 
troyphoto said:
When I first saw the pics of the current layout in progress, up in the photo gallery at the top of the pages, I thought "Are they putting their layout in their sauna? Won't the trains bake? Or are they going for realism in a Desert layout?" :p
Click to expand...
Well if the previous owner was in the middle of building a sauna then yes, the layout is going in the sauna 😂
 
shortwrench said:
Since part of your first module is lower than the rest of the module, leave the warped boards in place and screw new
boards to the sides of the warped boards so the tops of the new boards is level with the top of the layout. Very little,
if no ripping out of existing boards should be required and minimal new lumber should be required.

The vertical upright appears to be able to be remounted vertical with minimal effort.

Where do you find lumber with so few knots?
Click to expand...
I didn’t think about that but it’s a good idea! I’ll have to take a closer look and see what, if any boards need to be removed/replaced.

I bought all the lumber (except the 2 x 2s) from R.K. Miles Building Supply. Most of the boards were premium boards which cost a bit more but it was worth it.

They didn’t have enough premium boards the day I went so I settled on a few cheaper ones. I think the warped board is not a premium board lol.
 
Spent a few more hours working on the layout today. In addition to adjusting a few of the uprights to a better position, I started cutting the base layer of foam board. My plan is to use the foam pieces as templates for the plywood that I can trace onto the boards before cutting.

IMG_8851.jpeg


I’m still working on a solution for the warped board but while cutting the foam, I noticed that the angle of the problem area could be captured better with the foam board as a reference. Decided to take a picture to (hopefully) demonstrate the problem more accurately.

IMG_8852.jpeg


While the entire warped 1 x 4 referenced in an earlier post is an issue, it seems that the very last foot or two in length of that board and module is the problem area. The foam board provides a good reference to demonstrate how the 1 x 3 cross member below should be positioned.

I’ve received some good suggestions so far on possible ways to address the issue so I’ll keep experimenting with them:)
 


GuilfordRailman said:
Spent a few more hours working on the layout today. In addition to adjusting a few of the uprights to a better position, I started cutting the base layer of foam board. My plan is to use the foam pieces as templates for the plywood that I can trace onto the boards before cutting.

View attachment 211566

I’m still working on a solution for the warped board but while cutting the foam, I noticed that the angle of the problem area could be captured better with the foam board as a reference. Decided to take a picture to (hopefully) demonstrate the problem more accurately.

View attachment 211567

While the entire warped 1 x 4 referenced in an earlier post is an issue, it seems that the very last foot or two in length of that board and module is the problem area. The foam board provides a good reference to demonstrate how the 1 x 3 cross member below should be positioned.

I’ve received some good suggestions so far on possible ways to address the issue so I’ll keep experimenting with them:)
Click to expand...
I am having a hard time seeing the warped boards and what effect they have on your surface.

One observation I can make is your construction looks super sturdy.

If I need a template, I usually use newspaper, I have been known to layout my track plan on large pieces taped together the correct size and use a felt marker to draw out curves and building footprints.
 
logandsawman said:
I am having a hard time seeing the warped boards and what effect they have on your surface.

One observation I can make is your construction looks super sturdy.

If I need a template, I usually use newspaper, I have been known to layout my track plan on large pieces taped together the correct size and use a felt marker to draw out curves and building footprints.
Click to expand...
Thanks! It’s definitely sturdy, just has this one problem area. Here’s a photo I posted earlier in the thread of the board causing the problem.

IMG_8816.jpeg


The 1 x 4 curves down as it approaches the direction of the camera. This results in the end of the module, specifically the side with the warped board being approximately 1/4” to 1/2” lower than the rest of the module. In the photo below you can see the effect this has on the position of the cross members. The foam board is level while the board beneath is not.

IMG_8852.jpeg


I have one idea I am going to try to hopefully correct this issue.
 
GuilfordRailman said:
Thanks! It’s definitely sturdy, just has this one problem area. Here’s a photo I posted earlier in the thread of the board causing the problem.

View attachment 211779

The 1 x 4 curves down as it approaches the direction of the camera. This results in the end of the module, specifically the side with the warped board being approximately 1/4” to 1/2” lower than the rest of the module. In the photo below you can see the effect this has on the position of the cross members. The foam board is level while the board beneath is not.

View attachment 211780

I have one idea I am going to try to hopefully correct this issue.
Click to expand...
I would use my circular saw and cut a wedge shaped piece from a 1" thick board to fill in the space.

Although, since I use plywood and not foam, just a small block at the outside would suffice.
 
logandsawman said:
I would use my circular saw and cut a wedge shaped piece from a 1" thick board to fill in the space.

Although, since I use plywood and not foam, just a small block at the outside would suffice.
Click to expand...
The foam will be placed on top of the plywood base. I had a similar idea of using a wedge. I have to take a closer look but I think that could definitely work!
 
I’ve been powering through the layout build the last few days. Not only did I complete the foam templates for cutting the plywood, but I’ve also cut all the plywood and have begun prep for the backdrop and fascia.

IMG_8863.jpeg


IMG_8864.jpeg


IMG_8865.jpeg


I did manage to (mostly) resolve the issue with the warped board. Since I had to add a section of plywood onto the end of the module due to it being 9 ft long, I needed a way to mount the plywood onto the cross member where the two pieces meet. I decided to use the split plywood sections to my advantage and try to manipulate the angle of the end of the module and warped board. Here are some pictures of what I came up with:

IMG_8858.jpeg


IMG_8861.jpeg


IMG_8860.jpeg


IMG_8862.jpeg


You can’t see it in the last picture but the backdrop upright on the corner is now closer to the wall and not at an angle away from the wall like it was before. When the smaller section of plywood was screwed into place, it forced the underlying structure to rotate slightly and straighten. The end of the module is now fixed but there is still a slight hump towards the center of the module. I’m hoping that gravity will take care of this over time lol.

I purchased the tempered hardboard and some hardware for my lift gate yesterday which are the next steps for the build.

I’ve done some research on bending hardboard but I’m looking to see if anyone has any feedback on their preferred method for doing this. I’ve read that windex can work when sprayed onto the board prior to manipulating the board into a curve. Any thoughts on this technique or any others?
 


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