Gateway Subdivision

[diesel]

You don't need a computer to use DCC. Just a command station. You can program the decoders with the command station, in most systems on the market. Certainly you can with mine, NCE.

In fact, you can program with a computer but it requires a command station also. But that's just a convenience (if you like computers).

 

[Snowman]

When it came to track ends on the swing up, I used Gap Masters to secure them .
View attachment 255226
View attachment 255227

I used them on layout one and was very satisfied with them. The one thing you want to do is make sure that any rail overhang that you have, is on the swing up/lift up section, and not on the end of track attacked to the bench work.
The hinge end.....
View attachment 255228

Track laying at the Helix junction. Switch comes off the mainline entering the helix down to staging.
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Laying switches and flex track in the yard.
View attachment 255230

Flex track around the end of the peninsula. In this pic and the one above, you can see I'm using sweep sticks. Again, this is going back to track reliability. I used these only on the mainline as ALL other tracks will be reduced speed and did not use them. I will have dark territory--- running Track Warrants. I super elevated all mainline curves, as you can see the styrene strips on the outer edge of the curve below. I used 0.020, 0.030, and 0.040 styrene strips.
On all my curves, I installed spirals. In real world railroading, you have tangent track, spiral track and the full body of the curve. Tangent is straight track, a spiral has a changing radius, and the full body of a curve has a constant radius. Let's say a train is heading down a piece of tangent track at 60 mph, its coming up on a 20degree curve, without the spiral, the train goes from tangent to the full body of the curve immediately. That's not good, so a spiral (changing radius) is put in between the tangent track and the full body of the curve.
View attachment 255231
Also in the upper right corner of the above pic, you can see the creek scene, or more better, the pond scene. I had a couple of iterations of that before I opted for a creek scene.
On the sweep sticks, I bought a set for each radius of curve I have, and I would be willing to let them go, for free, if somebody(s) could use them.
I would keep the 24" radius sticks because I have modified them, but the others I would let go if you pick up shipping.........
On another note, about laying track, not so much for curves, but on tangents and turnouts,(not curved), use your eyeballs and site down the track to see how it lines up. You may be surprised on how many kinks there are that you won't (or can't) see just from standing above it and looking down.
None of my track has adhesive underneath it. I figured when I glue the ballast down, that would be sufficient along with the spikes to hold it.

Have to chuckle at your understated example: Entering a 20 degree curve from a (presumably flat) tangent at 60mph. That's only a shade...just a shade...
...no...it's a mere 50 mph...above the A.R.E.A. speed recommendation for a flat/non-elevated twenty degree curve, and still a good 30 mph too high still if you first presume a 5" elevation (which would normally take 500').

Thus your point is well taken, even if you undersold it. Thumbs up!!

 

[2Tracks]

Have to chuckle at your understated example: Entering a 20 degree curve from a (presumably flat) tangent at 60mph. That's only a shade...just a shade...
...no...it's a mere 50 mph...above the A.R.E.A. speed recommendation for a flat/non-elevated twenty degree curve, and still a good 30 mph too high still if you first presume a 5" elevation (which would normally take 500').

Thus your point is well taken, even if you undersold it. Thumbs up!!

Fair enough.... I figured I'd be in trouble
I was wishing I still had my track profile from my days on the RR so I could look at the radiuses of the curves.......

 

[2Tracks]

Yes l,m running DCC. I have no clue how to change programming. I run locomotives the way they come out of the box. Some day I want to learn but I don't see a computer in my future.

I use the computer to do the initial programing of the locomotives when I get them.

 

[bnsf971]

To err is human, to really foul up you need a confuser...

 

[2Tracks]

Greetings fellow modelers.....
With the track down, but before electrical work is started, the switch machines need built and installed. All but one are the Fast Tracks Bullfrog machines. The one loner is a BluePoint machine. I had originally bought it to compare with the Bullfrog. While the "throw" on the Bluepoint is nice and short and precise, (and you can adjust the tension on the vertical throw rod) soldering to the tabs is a bit finicky because they are so close together, but the biggest factor against buying all Blue points, as I recall when I bought it in 2016, or so, was the $15.00 price tag.
I bought the Bullfrogs in bulk, a laser cut wood kit. 10 minutes or so and you have one put together.

They have a microswitch so you can change polarity of the frog when operated. Right now, I'm running exclusively 4 axle power, so I wanted the frogs powered.
The control rods to operate the switch machines are also Fast Tracks. I like how their system functions. Not all applications are a straight line for the control rod to operate between the facia & switch machine. They have the flexibility to do that.
You can get two different kits, an 18 inch or 36 inch length of control rod.

I wanted to try and minimize how much of the control rod/knob stuck out in the isle, so I got these "T" cups from togglecup.com.
There is a two hole version, I just needed the one & three hole style.

With some Bullfrogs built, it's time to get them installed. Here is a typical installation. Note the end of the styrene tube in the hole, helping keep the tension rod from snagging on plywood, foam or cork roadbed. When I built the bullfrogs, I left the tension rod full length to help facilitate placement in the center hole of the switch throw rod. The mounting holes in the base of the bullfrog are slotted for adjustment.
I got all the switch machines mounted before I hooked up any of the control rods to facia.

With the switch machines mounted, the facia needs to be installed so the locations can be marked and drilled for the "T" cups.
I used 1/8 inch Masonite, (or hard board I think is another name,) for the facia. I got smooth on one side, rough on the other, I installed it smooth side out. I used a jig saw to cut shallow scallops on the top edge, I didn't care for a straight edge.

At the joints of the facia, I used styrene H column as a fill, mounted with # 10 dome head wood screws & finish washers. I did not use any glue on the facia mounting, as I didn't think it necessary.

 

[RhB Michael]

Yes l,m running DCC. I have no clue how to change programming. I run locomotives the way they come out of the box. Some day I want to learn but I don't see a computer in my future.

A computer is not required to program DCC decoders. In fact, if you want to use a computer, you will usually need another box to interface your command station with the computer.

DCC programming is as easy as knowing which CV controls what you want to change, and then entering a value different from what is already programmed. This can be done right on your hand-held controller. A CV list of commonly changed CVs is usually (but not always) included with a new DCC equipped locomotive.

Say I want to change the volume on one of my ESU decoder equipped locomotives. I know that CV is 63 is for global volume of all sounds. I enter 63 in a program mode, check to see what it is already set to, say 85. Well, 85 isn't loud enough when I have another locomotive running so I change it to 90 and see if it's lound enough. If not, increase the value until you are happy with the volume. Simple as that.

Another simple example is CV 3 which controls your starting speed. If you like to see a slow, realistic start to your trains like I do, play around with this CV. Same for stopping nice and slow. CV 4 controls the stopping speed. Instead of the train jerking to a halt like a 70s Tycho train set, you can make them take as long as you like. Long freight trains stopping very slowly, or short commuter trains stopping a bit faster.

Your hand-held controller will explain how to reach the program mode so you can program your CVs to your liking.

Other CVs can control individual sounds, motor voltage, startup voltage, speed curves, etc. There are hundreds of CVs within ESU programming and there is really nothing you can't program with them. Fans, pantograph movement, ditch light flashing, MARS lighting, etc. I won't even go into sound programming or registers.

 

[Last Hooray]

Thanks RhB Michael ,
You just answered my question at what CV changes startup speed. I have several locomotives with ESU boards that start out slow and gradually pickup speed. And several locomotives with LokSound that starts at the notch right now that I will try to change for my first adventure in programming.

 

[2Tracks]

I will admit to a bit of laziness, I made a test track that I can set up in the living room to program/test locomotives with the lap top & sprog, instead of going across the driveway to the layout room.

24 inch radius, ever joint soldered.......

 

[2Tracks]

Facia installation.......
Here is the front edge of the bench work ready for the facia....
I screwed/glued a 1x3 pine strip on the front and back edge of all pieces of plywood bench work to help control warpage, the same reason I used plywood instead of particle board. All plywood and other wood pieces are painted to help control warpage. The bottom of the logging level and bottom of the mainline (middle) level, (above staging,) is painted white to help with lighting.
You can see the brackets for staging bench work under the main level. I made the staging sections first, but didn't install them until I had the wiring done for the main level.

So, once the bullfrog machines are installed, the facia can be marked and drilled for the T cups. A 1 1/2 inch hole saw does the job here......
The cups are black plastic with black mounting hardware.

I've got almost all the cups installed, most of what's left are the three hole cups for the mainline.

 

[2Tracks]

The left picture below is the control knob that comes with the control rods. Well, that wasn't going to work with the T cups.....
I went to the hardware box store and in their row of bins with small fittings, found these two.

I chose the plastic one over the wood for durability purposes. I think it is a bushing of some type. I used the screw for the knob assembly and with 2 part resin, mounted them in the bushing, painted them black and a white rim.

 

[2Tracks]

The three-hole cups are for the Mainline switches, so I had a way to know their alignment. I picked up these LEDs from Evan Designs along with the bushings to install them in the cups. The leds are built so polarity is not an issue.

Switch lined for the main or "normal" position

Switch lined for the turnout or "pass"

 

[Last Hooray]

Well done my friend, well done.

 

[2Tracks]

Here is a typical LED hook up. The stiffening board on the front of the bench work is barely an inch thick, so I needed to install these plywood brackets to help hold the hardware in place.

One wire from each LED is twisted together and soldered to the frog's green power wire. (green arrow)
Of course, depending on the indication needed, in this case here, the other leg of the yellow LED is soldered to the red power wire, (red arrow)
and the other green LED leg is soldered to the black power wire, (black arrow)
You can see that I used a black feeder wire attached to the black buss wire, and the red feeder wire is attached to the white buss wire.
All soldered connections were coated with liquid tape.

My control panel is pretty simple, a terminal strip for each leg of the buss line. Shown are two different circuit breakers from layout one. The other circuit breakers are on the layout near the blocks they are protecting. The small blue/green wires go up to the program track on the near end of the peninsula. Power for the command station is an outlet solely dedicated to the cs, on a switch at the entrance to the train room.
There is also a surge protector on the outlet that protects from surges as well as decreases in power.

 

[2Tracks]

Hello modelers..... Ive been away from the forum for a while, but that does not mean I have not been model railroading.
With the wiring complete, I ran trains for a couple of years (because I could for the first time,) and then I started working on landscaping.
I picked the route of getting the buildings put together for the various places on the layout, and then start the landscaping around them, vs picking a 6-7-8 ft or whatever section and totally completing the landscaping for that section.
The creek/bridge scene I'm working on now, is the first one I started on, and am still working on it. I've been trying to push thru on it as the two bridges and my goal is to get it completed, so I can get the bridges installed, and finish the track wiring. My issue is, I don't know what I'm doing.....
Here are some progression pictures.......
While working on the creek scene, it just kind of flowed into working on the tunnels and the helix at the same time.

It used to be solid across the back, I didn't like that so I cut in a canyon so the creek will flow from the front to the back.
Were the pink foam is exposed on the bottom is where the water is going to sit/flow.

Sealing the bottom, forming rocks.....

I didn't like the foam rock progression, so I poured a couple of batches of hydrocal rocks. All of the white hydrocal rocks are of the same mold, just put in deferent positions.

It felt pretty good to get this far.......just some weathering to complete the rocks........

There is a mirror in the far corner......the small boulders are loose, I'm still choosing locations. The willow tree is a WS, it came in a package of three, I took one and added to the other two. The black behind the pier is a plate girder bridge. On layout one, I needed three, plate girder bridges to span the doorway. I didn't need them for the doorway on layout two, so I used two of them to span the creek for the logging RR, and the third one is a "wreck" in the creek bed from a long-ago flood....... I took this pic the other day.....

 

[2Tracks]

Greetings......
As part of the creek scene is the helix. So, I thought I'd show how it's came along.......

Here is the main level bench work coming up to the helix......

Then I modified the bench work for two bridges......

The track is operational now. To help control dust on the track, I installed a burlap curtain around it. All the burlap sections installed, I hung on a rack and used (cheap) hair spray, sprayed both sides of the burlap. I choose burlap because it ended up being the cheapest for the quantity that I needed. Yes, you can see through it (somewhat,) so dust could maybe sort of pass through?? That's why the hair spray, it will help hold the fibers & dust particles already on the fabric, and I think it also helps seal the fabric to a certain degree.......

Starting to resemble a big basket now.......
Burlap comes in different colors, I tried to get something close to my bench work color........
Sides done, installing the top......
Track entering helix is logging line, going up to the top. Freight mainline running next to it.......

The "Basket" pretty much done. The gap on top is where the logging track comes out, will have a wooden retaining wall.....

I cut the top in half and made T supports for each half to set on......

When it finally came down to scenicking the creek, I needed some backdrop support. So I decided to cover the helix in Masonite. I believe this is the 3/16 thick stuff. Even at 3/16 I had to saw kerf the back for it to bend. On the left end, a piece of 1x1 aluminum angle is attached to the wall with heavy duty wall anchors. The Masonite has three flat head machine screws holding the corner, and a couple of wood screws at the bottom you can't see. I left the burlap up as there was no need to remove it,

Second piece installed. Square hole on right side is entrance to staging.....

All painted up! I wanted a tunnel on the mainline and this is about the only spot for one.....

This is my starting concept to install a mountain/bluff/out cropping. I can cover up the screws that hold the Masonite to the helix, and for the most part, cover the seam between the two pieces of Masonite.

 

[migalyto]

Great job hiding the helix and making it blend into scenery!

 

[2Tracks]

Thank you Mike!

Here are some pics of the tunnel's progression......

I cut some arches from 1" foam........

And a 2" inch piece on top of the arches.....

I reinforced the foam legs with wood and installed Neodymium magnets in the wood. The 2" foam has a rabbit joint cut in it so the Masonite panel sets flush when installed. I glued car weights to the back of the Masonite panel.......(no pic)

The Masonite panel installed..........

The covering on the access panel is a self-adhesive paper with a cut stone pattern on it, that came from Greece no less........
I installed a WS tunnel liner on each portal corner that your going to see when you walk up to it.....

Just looking at details here......Wood retaining wall is installed on upper track. Backdrop painted. Tunnel portals installed. And as a note, I lay a drop cloth down to cover the tracks when I need space to work on something. I find that saves a lot on the track getting dinged up & dirty....

 

[2Tracks]

Across the doorway on the upper logging level is the spring house.
The cut stone walls are made from --Baby Building Blocks--from Uncle Ben's Consortium. I don't even know if they are around anymore, I got these for layout #1 back in 2017-18. The stand pipe is a Brass Lambert model , I used a narrow, Walthers stand pipe base, and added an extension to the spout mounting pipe. I have two of these Accurail cars each a different #.

The cars are modeled with two-piece doors, but unfortunately, nothing opens.......
These cars actually ran on the SP, they had two tanks inside, filling up at a spring by MT Shasta.

 

[2Tracks]

An update on the spring house, I've done this since those last pictures.......
I added more boulders "coming out of the ground".
The cut off foam on the left side, I did that just for the ease of handling. I didn't figure the joint any big deal to cover up.

I filled in the slope with hydrocal, and I don't care for it very much. I don't care for the narrow level spot along the front of the building.
I'm going to extend the wall on down the ledge & fill it in level in front of the building.....
An out house will be at the far-right end of the foam......