FP7's

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blues90

Member
Many years ago I had an Oct 1978 Railroad Model Craftsman magazine and the following issue all to do with kitbashing an FP7 using Athearn shells and a stretched Athearn frame. So I did a few , Mainly I wanted a Soo #501A which is what I built. The actual Athearn loco used it the artical was an older one with the all metal sideframes.

I have since gotten a few Atlas last run two FP7 un-dec shells . What I did is base everything off the athearn artical only made my own frame from brass square tubing and cut the fuel tank off a Dummy Athearn F7 and filled it to fit the brass frame and inside the Atlas shell and I used Kato trucks that were for a GP35 if I recall but they are the same style truck used on all EMD F units. And a can motor.

Athearn F units never looked right with the roof profile or the nose but at the time they looked fine to me.

What I did was go by the 1978 artical and mad ethe unit a scale 4' longer and made the frame 4' longer . At the time I trusted the bolster centers were right but an Athearn F7 is 29' 6" so this is where I came up 6" short.
By doing this today I decided to check the bolster ctc on the Atlas shell and brass frame loco I built and it is 33' 6" instead of 34' . I haven't checked the over all shell length now that I found an actual scale drawing . I also checked the 2 Atlas latest run FP7's I got a while back and they are also 33' 6" instead of 34' . The thing is the ladder steps do line up with the trucks meaning the front edge of the ladder steps line up with the rear of the truck hanger or truck spring pad what ever you call it just like the proto-type . I noticed years ago running Athearn F7's that if i did not trim off the rear trucks rear most brake arm that the rear truck would hit the ladder and not allow it to make the turns.

The idea behind the Atlas FP7 was that the Atlas powered loco was not around but the shells were. I was building PRR # 9833 which has the full side skirting and I even made a large water tank that sits just behind the front truck . It worked out well . I even changed the horrid Atlas FP7 number boards and fit details west boards in their place and trimmed off all the hand rails. Another detail is the PRR used passenger style pilots and I have two types one brass and the other cast white metal but neither seem to be the right conture. I can live with the bolster being 6" short since they do line up with the ladders yet the Kato trucks cast on brake cyl arms still hit the ladder at the rear truck . Also the ladders on the Atlas shell are a bit short and thick. I did get a stewart F3 shell and used an Athearn F7 frame and made it fit and filed off the bolster pins and drilled new holes to make the F7 bolster spacing the 30' because the trucks did not line up with the ladders proper that it shows I even thought this would allow the rear truck a full swing on a turn but it didn't . It's still the same brake cyl arm hitting the ladder and the stewart shell has what look like the proper length ladders and they are thin. It's not that the rear trucks don't pivot they my make a 22" curve don't know I don't have a layout. On the powered Atlas units have a different sideframe just enough so that they do clear fine.

I recall reading somewhere in railroad mag when the stewart F units came out and a fellow was building Penn Central units and his complaint was the body sat to high above the trucks so he trimmed the truck bolster area down . My units sit at the proper 14' 1/2" height.

I saw Athearn later one built FP7's and one other company that I can't recall and wondered if anyone had these and if they are right? All I can really do is take a bit off the brake cyl arm or rod because there is no way I'm going to go through all the work for 6 scale inches . On the Atlas shell I may be able the thin out the ladder steps a bit and this may help just enough. So far like I wrote before asking about bolster to bolster most HO loco's are short and more than 6". Also on the Atlas shell I don't much care for the way they cast the rear coupler box it sort of sticks out more than it should but this is the coupler mount and I did not want to re-build that entire area . I could have and made the brass frame with it's own coupler mount front and rear then I would have had an area to mount the passenger pilot on the front yet at the time I felt the mounts even though part of the shell were more than strong enough not anything like the Kato /Atlas RS3 and C424 and RS11's that flexed. I can always add a bellows to the rear door and that will fix the jutting rear coupler mount just fine . When I had the Stewart F units I do recall they coupled the scale distance from the B units which was nice, but you had to use a special Kaydee coupler in order to do that. Now as far as how the made the turns that close I cannot say.
 
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Intermountain has a nice looking and running FP7. Fellow club member has one. Another guy has the old Atlas. Intermountain is better. Don't know if they are still available, though Phil
 
Intermountain has a nice looking and running FP7. Fellow club member has one. Another guy has the old Atlas. Intermountain is better. Don't know if they are still available, though Phil

Well the Intermountain FP was available about 3-4 months ago. Only problem may be whether they have the paint scheme you want. In my case, I bought what I thought was an F7A/B, in Northern Pacific Raymond Loewy colors. I was curious to see if some of my old Athearn Blue Box shells in CB&Q would fit the Intermountain chasis. Well, it didn't! The IM shell was too long!:eek: Only then did I realize that the A-unit was an FP7. Well, OK, the NP did run FP7's, as did the Western Pacific (which was/is) available from IM. There's a bunch of different road names available, and some that can be "reserved". So far as the mechanisms are concerned, I like mine so far.
 
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Regarding HO FP7A's, Atlas has run this in HO on several occasions starting in the 1970's in their yellow box line, and again around 1990, they upgraded them and reran them again. Those were originally made by Roco for Atlas, and I"m not sure who did the upgraded version. The tooling went to Brazil I think, and another company has sold them under their name since.

During the last 5 or so years, Intermountain tooled up their FP7 followed by Athearn Genesis, which has offered a number of their own FP7's.

The only FP7A I have ever really been interested in is the Western Pacific FP7A, which I bought one a year ago, and apparently Genesis is re-running them again. I've seen photo's of the Intermountain WP FP7A, and while nice, it seems to be more generic, and not offer some of the WP details, such as the horn cluster, the lower side skirt mods or the simulated stainless steel side panels, perhaps even the wire grab irons above the windshield. IMO, the Genesis are a more fully finished, at least the WP versions.
 
I have two of the FP7 locos myself. One is an old 70's era Atlas model and the other an 80's era Con-Cor copy of the Atlas. They both run very well.
 
My Atlas FP7's are from the last run as far as I can tell . I had one long ago and it had this huge can motor about half the frame height as the ones I have now . These have the same motor as the Atlas S-2 which was the same motor used in the old Walthers SW-1 and H10/12 44 and the frame is almost as tall as the inside of the shell , they are heavy loco's and have two flywheels and run very well .

I was not looking to buy another just trying to check what others had. I do know these run well with the Bachman Spectrum loco's like the GP30 I had and the baby train master I still have. There is no way I can afford to buy anything these days.

The one I made using the brass frame I made and the can motor and Kato trucks was an attempt the have one that ran with the stewart loco's I no longer have and using an un-dec shell I was able to remove the cast on grabs and the awefull number boards that the Atlas FP7 shells have .
 
I apologize for being somewhat off-topic, but it always intrigues me when modelers talk about very specific locomotives they are recreating, and I feel the need to look it up. I found this really cool picture of the Soo 501A leading quite a consist!

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2749619

It seems like a hodge-podge of locomotives, but presumably works quite well together.


When I made my SOO 501A I had a few photo's old of a railroad Mag showing the top and full side and front , it came out well being they were spilced Athearn shell and a stretched frame . The one I made using the un-dec Atlas FP7 shell and brass frame is going to be PRR FP7 .
 
EMD FP-7 HO Scale locomotives

I used to have a pair of the Atlas FP-7A undecorated locomotives with dual headlights. They were on the to-do list to be converted to PRR FP-7 locomotives but they never got moved to the ready track . . . declared surplus when the Intermountain units were announced.
I placed orders for two FP7-A/F7-B/FP-7A sets in the Brunswick Green paint scheme. Despite all the efforts of the various folks in the modeling area, Intermountain made some mistakes on the PRR version. Unlike most FP-7A locomotives, the PRR version used a 36 inch dynamic brake fan, Intermountain, again, despite all the input from the modelers, used a 48 inch dynamic brake fan. The stainless steel grills on the model were the wrong version. There are no water fill hatches on the side of the body. On the top of the body, the hatch for the four cooling fans is too short and the gap between that hatch and the hatch for the steam generator has a too-wide gap between them . . . didn't notice this at first until comparing them to an F-7 unit. In that area, they should be the same. Also, the placement of the steam generator details on the hatch are wrong based on drawings and photos.
When they released the Tuscan version, they had corrected the dynamic brake fan error, corrected the stainless steel grill mistake but still no water fill hatch.
The first releases had the truck worm gear shafts shimmed too tight and they would buck going down the track. Word went out that this was a simple fix.
The three trios from Intermountain that I have are QSI sound equipped and all seem to run pretty good out of the box and seem to MU and run together pretty well.
Rumors of the Athearn Genesis FP-7A had been flowing for years. When they finally made the announcement, it was, for the PRR fans, the Tuscan version that came out first. I ordered and finally received a FP-7A/F-7B/FP-7A set with the Tsunami sound feature. I have run them on our club layout a bit but not enough to get a decent feel for their reliability. Details are pretty good and, for the short time I ran them, they seemed pretty good. For the PRR modelers, the detail level is much better than the Intermountain versions.
Eventually I was able to order two more three unit sets when the Brunswick Green version was released. Unfortunately, I have not had a chance to run the latest Athearn units for more than 15 minutes but they seem to do okay in a consist . . . again, straight out of the box, no CV changes.
Without a doubt, if you can afford it, the better choice is the Athearn Genesis version.

If you wish to look at a comparison of the roof of the Genesis FP-7 and Intermountain FP-7, I have posted a picture at
http://www.ac47-gunships.com/images/PRR_FP7A_top_two.jpg

Don
Lower Arizona
 
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The Atlas FP7 when it was introduced in the mid 1970s was quite a bit better looking than the ubiquitous Athearn, and it wasn't until the Stewarts came along in the mid-late 1980s that we had something better. But Stewart never did an FP7.

HO scale plastic FPs:
Atlas yellowbox - made by Roco circa 1975
Atlas yellowbox later runs Roco
ER Models redux of Atlas circa 1991
Intermountain FP7 circa 2008
Genesis FP7 circa 2009-present
Rapido Canadian FP9, on it's way

The Rapido should be very nice. I hope to have mine in a couple of weeks.

I passed on the Intermountain, as someone else mentioned word leaked out there would be a Genesis FP7 as much as 5 years in advance. The Genesis FP is actually a factory kitbash, involving precision cuts on two Highliner F shells and gluing them together. A few extra parts and new side panels... viola, FP7 with the Highliner nose and details.

I have the PRR tuscan set, which had some assembly issues and two of the three units had bad motors. I also have the WP (FP7, F7B, F3B) with Tsunamis - very nice. And I have an FP7/F7B set in SP black widow also with Tsunamis... which my wife won as the door price at Naperville 2011. I let her do all the luck-related stuff... the Athearn Genesis FP7s are really the best out there, my only complaints are with the motor and drive line, which I grudgingly deal with.

BTW, the Atlas FP7 sits at the correct height (rail to top of roof) in spite of the trucks being jacked up a bit, because the body is a tad shallow. Compare to Genesis end to end.

Andy
 


Does anyone know of anyone doing either a out of box/upgrade kit of the CAT rebuild of the FP7's the Ontario Northland ran in the early 2000's?


I've always wanted to get at least one done up since I can't help but really want to run a prototypical consist of a FP7 and a SD75. :)
 
Does anyone know what the bolster to bolster CTC is on the FP7 ? I still have one Atlas FP7 shell that I wanted to use to replace the stretched Athearn F7's I used in the 80's to make a FP7 SOO line . I know and have read the windshields on the Atlas model were not correct and I don't like the number boards yet the Athearn roof is to flat . I do have a few more Athearn F7's that I stretched the frame the extra 4 feet but when I measured the inside of the Atlas shell it's 1/16" narrower than the athearn shell most likely because the Atlas shell has thinker plastic sides so I need to figure out how to narrow the athearn frame to fit the Atlas shell. I guess the only way is to file the frame 1/16" narrower and re due the way I added 4 feet to the athearn frame . What I did was cut the frame and file the ends of the frame rails to fit in 1/8" x1/8" square brass tubing then epoxied them together so if I file 1/32" off each side of the frame it will cut through the square brass tubing on one side , it may still be strong enough or I will need to re due it if not.

Looking at the Atlas shell compared to a stewart F7 shell the windshields look the same but the athearn frame does fit perfectly inside the stewart shell I made an F7 using the stewart shell and slightly modified athearn F7 frame . I wish I had a stewart FB shell then I would use that and the stewart F7A shell and have a pretty good FP7 .

As far as I can find the FP7 bolster to bolster CTC is 34 feet yet even the two powered Atlas models I do have measure 33' 6" .

Anyone know what the bolster to bolster CTC is on a Athearn Genesis is? I know most HO models compromise a bit in actual spacing between bolsters so they can make the 18" curves .
 




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