Flex track?

[Mopac Junkie]

that is

I'm pretty sure that he is talking about this end part of the railroad tie.

Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe this is the area.

that is correct

 

[timlange3]

I use code 100 flex track for my HO railroad. I use a razor saw held horizontal and cut the spikes and top of the tie off at the end of the flex track. That gives me enough of a gap to slide a rail joiner on. I solder my feed wires to the bottom center of joiners and put the feeders in every other rail joint.

 

[Jacob Z]

I use code 100 flex track for my HO railroad. I use a razor saw held horizontal and cut the spikes and top of the tie off at the end of the flex track. That gives me enough of a gap to slide a rail joiner on. I solder my feed wires to the bottom center of joiners and put the feeders in every other rail joint.

I've been soldering my feeder wires lengthwise to the joiner so there is a larger contact area, so the joiner won't go in even if I cut the spikes like that - at least I don't think so. Maybe I will try soldering the other way.

 

[santafewillie]

Can you elaborate a bit on what you mean about installing ties on each section? Doesn't each section already have enough ties? (Total novice here).

I only have experience with Atlas flex track but I assume other brands are similar. I remove a tie from each end of the two pieces of flex that are joined. Then I use an Exacto #17 chisel blade or a single edge razor blade to shave off the tie plates and spikes from the two ties. They then slide easily under the rail joiner. Once it is ballasted, it doesn't move. Usually the downward pressure from the thickness of the joiner keeps it in place anyway, but a spot of Super Glue could fasten any loose ones if needed. As I posted back in post #9, keep the sliding rail to the inside radius of curves, that works best for me. Most people can't see that the tie plates and spikes aren't there, especially if the surrounding area is well scenicked which draws their attention away from the join.

 

[Jacob Z]

I only have experience with Atlas flex track but I assume other brands are similar. I remove a tie from each end of the two pieces of flex that are joined. Then I use an Exacto #17 chisel blade or a single edge razor blade to shave off the tie plates and spikes from the two ties. They then slide easily under the rail joiner. Once it is ballasted, it doesn't move. Usually the downward pressure from the thickness of the joiner keeps it in place anyway, but a spot of Super Glue could fasten any loose ones if needed. As I posted back in post #9, keep the sliding rail to the inside radius of curves, that works best for me. Most people can't see that the tie plates and spikes aren't there, especially if the surrounding area is well scenicked which draws their attention away from the join.

Thanks. I'm doing N gauge, so somebody would have to have exceptional eyesight to notice the missing tie plates and spikes