flat not matte clear

[n&w coal]

What do you use for a FLAT as in no reflection clear for your airbrush? Bought some flat clear from micro mark and it's a dull shiny.Tamiya dull kote works but is pricey.

 

[steelwheels]

Hello
Tamiya flat XF-86, fyi if you think the paint is too "pricey" you're in the wrong hobby.

Pep

 

[Marlin39]

Testors Dull Coat...and yes, if you think "the paint" is too "pricey" you're in the wrong hobby.

 

[Mixed Freight]

"Flat" and/or "Matte" should be the exact same sheen. But I've been running into the same problem with rattle can spray paints. Poor quality control at the factories? Heck, even a can of "Flat" Black paint I bought recently had much more of a "Satin" finish when dry.
And yeah, even they are getting kinda' pricey, compared to what we used to pay for them.
I guess we're ALL in the wrong hobby.

 

[TLOC]

FLAT or MATTE. To me they are interchangeable words.

I mainly use Tamiya xf-86 flat clear

I also use VMS Matt clear

Both are IMOO excellent products
Enjoy

 

[n&w coal]

"Flat" and/or "Matte" should be the exact same sheen. But I've been running into the same problem with rattle can spray paints. Poor quality control at the factories? Heck, even a can of "Flat" Black paint I bought recently had much more of a "Satin" finish when dry.
And yeah, even they are getting kinda' pricey, compared to what we used to pay for them.
I guess we're ALL in the wrong hobby.

For flat black I've been using Rustoleum flat black primer. No sheen whatsoever.

 

[Len Turner]

Used the last of my 5 year old can of Testors Dullcote last week. Since then, I'd read that Rustoleum was going to discontinue it or change the formula. I was a little leery, but I held my breath and ordered 4 cans from Hobbylinc. I am happy to report that it dries absolutely FLAT. Not matte, like Rustoleum clear matte, but dead flat. New labels too.

 

[Marlin39]

Used the last of my 5 year old can of Testors Dullcote last week. Since then, I'd read that Rustoleum was going to discontinue it or change the formula. I was a little leery, but I held my breath and ordered 4 cans from Hobbylinc. I am happy to report that it dries absolutely FLAT. Not matte, like Rustoleum clear matte, but dead flat. New labels too.View attachment 216418

My Dullcote results have been the same all these years. I tried the Tamiya flat clear, but it just wasn't the same as Testors.

 

[CambriaArea51]

What do you use for a FLAT as in no reflection clear for your airbrush? Bought some flat clear from micro mark and it's a dull shiny.Tamiya dull kote works but is pricey.

I use it and have no problem. Are you diluting it because you're supposed to use it straight out of the bottle.

 

[n&w coal]

I tried that but it was way too thick. Tried anywhere from 10-40 psi. This stuff is kind of gooey. Same with their house brand ready to spray paint . But Vallejo colors shoot straight real nice. And yes I used their thinner.

 

[CambriaArea51]

I use Vallejo paint also and don't thin that either.

 

[n&w coal]

I don't thin the vallejo just the micro mark. I'm going to try Alclad alc314 klearkote and see how that does. Be my luck the micro was setting on a shelf for 30 years before I ordered it.

 

[AirbrushNo5]

I use Tamiya XF-86…mainly for convenience airbrushed and thinned with X-20A
but the Testors Dull Coat (bottle or spray can is a good product)

 

[diesel]

Is there any situation where it matters a lot whether it's water or mineral spirit based?

 

[AirbrushNo5]

Depends what your underlying paint is composed of…
If the flat layer has interactive solvents or goes on too heavy you may get unwanted results…

 

[C&OMtnMan]

My Dullcote results have been the same all these years. I tried the Tamiya flat clear, but it just wasn't the same as Testors.

No doubt it is easy to get “comfortable” with Testors. I've used it from rattle cans in a 43-degree garage to in brutal sunlight on 95-degree-plus days and had zero problems. Same with it from a bottle thinned for airbrushing.

I would be using it right now, except my second bottle hardened up this summer after 3.5 years. Probably due to the room it was stored in had the air conditioner off over much of the summer.

That threw me over to using some Tamiya XF-86 I have on-hand, and thus far I find it as reliable and flat as Testors dullcote.

I do find that the Tamiya, being alcohol-based, doesn’t suffer clogging or tip drying as much as Dullcote, which is a lacquer.

But on balance, when I run out of the XF-86, I can see myself going back to bottled Dullcote, but really for cost considerations. It takes roughly five bottles of XF-86 to equal the volume of one bottle of Dullcote.

But then again, it’s not that cut-and-dried - if I stock up on Testors, shelf life might bite me and eat up savings.

Also, lacquers can more readily attack prior coats of paint, because lacquer thinners are stronger solvents. But I haven’t had problems with that myself (well, yet).

Now I’ve made myself curious - I still have my dried-up bottle of Dullcote - I’m going to see if I can revive it by pouring in some lacquer thinner.

 

[C&OMtnMan]

I use Vallejo paint also and don't thin that either.

I know you’ve mentioned you use the paints straight up in other threads. Man, you must have mad skillz and confidence I lack; I can never see myself doing that.

Maybe my something other than my cheap Ghalleri airbrush might have finer flow control and dispersion, but using paint “straight up” would put too much on with my limited skillset.

 

[NVSrr1500]

I am finding that it depends on the surface material. How the paint reacts and adheres as to how Matt a clear flat will be. The same Matt. On a plastic painted surface comes out different from a card board or metal

 

[flyboy2610]

I know you’ve mentioned you use the paints straight up in other threads. Man, you must have mad skillz and confidence I lack; I can never see myself doing that.

Maybe my something other than my cheap Ghalleri airbrush might have finer flow control and dispersion, but using paint “straight up” would put too much on with my limited skillset.

I own 2 Gaahleri airbrushes and find that they do a phenomenal job of atomizing the paint! Both of mine have their 8 micro channel air nozzle design.
For Vallejo paints: Buy a 200ml bottle of flow improver, a 60ml bottle of thinner, and 2 17ml bottles of retarder (do not skip the retarder). Mix it all together in a 20 oz. plastic pop bottle (empty preferably) and thin your paint 50/50 with the resulting mixture. Tip dry? Pray tell, what is this 'tip dry' of which you speak?
200ml bottles of flow improver can be hard to find. I order mine from Burbank's House of Hobbies. https://houseofhobbies.com/
Good prices, fast service, and they pack things very well. 100% satisfied all the way!
The ingredients I listed will give you the proper ratio of liquids. This mixture works really well!

 

[CambriaArea51]

I know you’ve mentioned you use the paints straight up in other threads. Man, you must have mad skillz and confidence I lack; I can never see myself doing that.

Maybe my something other than my cheap Ghalleri airbrush might have finer flow control and dispersion, but using paint “straight up” would put too much on with my limited skillset.

I have a Paasche H airbrush with a #1 tip with about 25-30lbs. of air.