Dumb it down for me

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Ok. So i have been running my little layout now. Leaning about power(strange things happened but fixed for no apparent reason). Switches. How my yard does not work with my vision. But what I am really frustrated with right now is manual uncoupling. I have the tool from micro trains and figured it was just time and repetition needed to master it. But I just can't seem to get it. What am I missing? It seems to not only push on the coupler, but raises the car off the track. Hence at the least one car details, or at the extreme the whole train winds up on its side making me drink. What is wrong with me.
 

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Uncoupling requires a special "touch". There is no magic tool to make the operation of uncoupling perfect every time. You have try changing your technique a bit to try and find what works for you.
I have seen some folks use a pencil as an uncoupling tool and I've seen some folks use a sharpened, slender wood dowel.
Practice will improve your technique whatever tool you use..

John
 
In Europe, remote control uncoupling units mounted on the locomotives are becoming standard. Slowly. Using the dcc. Similar to post war Lionel version. Only using dcc instead of a stationary contact
 


There are at least three types.
- magnetic, with magnets on a tool that is inserted to straddle the coupler.
- inserted in the coupler; inter-dental devices are popular for this
- devices that separate the brake hoses, inserted below the coupler. I use a small screwdriver, others use, pencils, kebab, skewers, etc.

All of these require some practice with technique. I’d pick one, and get good at it.
 
I bought a small package of

GUM Proxabrush Go-Betweens - Tight - Interdental Brushes​

Works fine with any couplers. Lasts forever.
 
I used to just pick the car end up to uncouple, so I gave this a try just now.

Cut and flattened the end of a toothpick.
TOOTHPICK FLAT.jpeg

TOOTHPICK SHAPE.jpeg


Tried it first on micro-trains. Turned the toothpick a couple of turns clockwise and it grabbed the hooks and pulled them away from each other, uncoupling the cars.
TOOTHPICK MICRO.jpeg


Then I tried it on Kato couplers and surprisingly, it worked.
KATO TOOTHPICK.jpeg

KATO UNCOUPLED.jpeg


Then I made a skewer for added length, but since the skewer is thicker, it wouldn't fit between the cars. I tried it at an angle, but it wouldn't work.
 
There are at least three types.
- ...
- ...
- devices that separate the brake hoses, inserted below the coupler. I use a small screwdriver, others use, pencils, kebab, skewers, etc.

This is my method. Works about 75% of the time. The other 25% usually end up with me using the "Magical Hand of God" method for uncoupling. Sometimes, even in real work rail roading, the people have to get their hands dirty, you know?
 




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