Double (Scissors) Cross Over question?

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The OP said on the second page, "I finally got it sorted out. I had a bad wiring mistake. You are absolutely correct and it works fine now."

Nuff said.
 
Selector said:
The OP said on the second page, "I finally got it sorted out. I had a bad wiring mistake. You are absolutely correct and it works fine now."

Nuff said.
Click to expand...

I am the Original Poster (OP) and I did not say what you've quoted: "I finally got it sorted out. I had a bad wiring mistake. You are absolutely correct and it works fine now. Thanks for for all the replies". This was stated by Gbeeman and I don't know what it is in reference too?

In actuality, I am no farther along in fixing this problem than I was on the 11th when I started this thread.
 
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NP2626 said:
I am the Original Poster (OP) and I did not say what you've quoted: "I finally got it sorted out. I had a bad wiring mistake. You are absolutely correct and it works fine now. Thanks for for all the replies". This was stated by Gbeeman and I don't know what it is in reference too?

In actuality, I am no farther along in fixing this problem than I was on the 11th when I started this thread.
Click to expand...
Nuff said.

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Here's a scissors crossover I built for the club I'm in. It uses #8 turnouts and code 83 rail. We use live frogs, so electrically it's quite complex, with a relay to set the polarity. Sorry, that probably doesn't help your situation.

But in an attempt to say something helpful: you've got to diagnose this problem. I hope you have a voltmeter. Set up a crossover route, put one probe on the south rail outside the crossing and then run the other probe along the south rail through the crossing, and watch for a voltage where what should be the south rail is actually at the polarity of the north rail. If you don't find anything, do it again with the first probe on the north rail, and check for south's voltage on the north rail. You can do this with a light bulb if you haven't got a voltmeter, but a meter wouldn't cost much at the big-box hardware store.
 

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This morning I did exactly what you suggested John P! I followed each route checking with the ohm meter setting on my Multi-meter. I found that I need to have both crossover routes set to cross over and then my double crossover will work just fine. If I have just one of the crossovers set to crossover, then it will not work.
 
NP2626 said:
I am the Original Poster (OP) and I did not say what you've quoted: "I finally got it sorted out. I had a bad wiring mistake. You are absolutely correct and it works fine now. Thanks for for all the replies". This was stated by Gbeeman and I don't know what it is in reference too?

In actuality, I am no farther along in fixing this problem than I was on the 11th when I started this thread.
Click to expand...

I am sorry for my misattribution. I got mixed up...probably not following along closely enough.
 


NP2626 said:
My Double Crossover was installed on my layout back in the pre DCC days. I determined yesterday that it has power routing. When the routes are set to the parallel tracks, the crossover routes are electrically dead. When the route is set to one; or, both crossover routes those routes are powered and the parallel routes are electrically dead. I am using Caboose Industries ground throws to operate the turnouts in the double crossovers.
Click to expand...

I have a couple of double crossovers and the points route the power. Mine are also pre DCC. I apply power at each end of the four tracks and when the turnouts are thrown (using Caboose Industry throws) I have power through the entire travel route.
 
After 15; or, so years of little use, I forgot that both crossover routes had to be set to the crossover routes in order for my Double Crossover to function properly. Same goes for the parallel routes. With my staging addition to my layout I will be using the crossover option more often. I also have a layout Log Book, where I have written down an explanation of how this bit of track work operates, to help me remember this important point. Now, if I can only remember that I have written this information down, if I forget about how it works! Thank you, to all who helped me out! That is what is great about this FORUM!!
 
John P said:
Here's a scissors crossover I built for the club I'm in. It uses #8 turnouts and code 83 rail. We use live frogs, so electrically it's quite complex, with a relay to set the polarity. Sorry, that probably doesn't help your situation.

But in an attempt to say something helpful: you've got to diagnose this problem. I hope you have a voltmeter. Set up a crossover route, put one probe on the south rail outside the crossing and then run the other probe along the south rail through the crossing, and watch for a voltage where what should be the south rail is actually at the polarity of the north rail. If you don't find anything, do it again with the first probe on the north rail, and check for south's voltage on the north rail. You can do this with a light bulb if you haven't got a voltmeter, but a meter wouldn't cost much at the big-box hardware store.
Click to expand...


John P. In fact I have three ways to check continuity! I have worked with Multi-Meters since in the US ARMY back in the early 1970s, so when I got out, it wasn't long before I had one for home use. I also have a tail light bulb mounted in a socket with two leads with Alligator clips on the ends. My third item is a 9 volt battery mounted to a small chunk of wood, with a piezo buzzer wired in series with leads that buzzes when ever continuity is found. Although you suggested using my volt meter, a continuity check provided me with the same information needed to determine what needed to happen to get my Double Crossover to work.

John P, I find your #8 Double Crossover to be beautifully executed! Great Job!
 
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