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Well? I've really done it this time. I think I screwed up my double crossover for the last time. I can't get the engines to go over it without derailing. Anyway, I've been looking to replace it. I've noticed that some of the listings on eBay say DCC friendly, or not. What's the difference? I guess I never really was concerned about that when I bought my present one. Right now I'm running analogue but future plans are for DCC. Obviously cheaper is better. That being said is "DCC friendly" just a matter of jumper contacts from one section to the other? Or is it more complicated than that? Really anxious to get some help one this. There's one that's still pretty cheap but the sale ends in 2 days.
Well? I've really done it this time. I think I screwed up my double crossover for the last time. I can't get the engines to go over it without derailing. Anyway, I've been looking to replace it. I've noticed that some of the listings on eBay say DCC friendly, or not. What's the difference? I guess I never really was concerned about that when I bought my present one. Right now I'm running analogue but future plans are for DCC. Obviously cheaper is better. That being said is "DCC friendly" just a matter of jumper contacts from one section to the other? Or is it more complicated than that? Really anxious to get some help one this. There's one that's still pretty cheap but the sale ends in 2 days.
It is complicated in that the term "DCC friendly" has to official meaning. It means whatever the person who wrote it wants it to mean. I would generally interpret it to mean that the turnout has insulated frogs such that no special wiring is needed to drop it in and go.
Personally I like hot frogs even though it requires some extra track gaps and wiring. DC, DCC, AC, or whatever.
I've noticed that some of the listings on eBay say DCC friendly, or not
I just looked up double-crossover on eBay. If you are looking at the Shinohara ones then, yes they will probably require some extra work to get to work well with DCC. Shinohara is the brand that started all this no-DCC friendly blather.
I just looked up double-crossover on eBay. If you are looking at the Shinohara ones then, yes they will probably require some extra work to get to work well with DCC. Shinohara is the brand that started all this no-DCC friendly blather.
I *think* the older Shinohara had issues with DCC. I have one on my layout with zero problems and have run several DCC engines.
I really prefer Peco Electro Frog turnouts for DCC operation. Have tried Shinohara, Walthers, etc, and Peco Electro frog does the job!
I have a Walthers' Code 83 #6 double crossover on my new layout. In fact, it sits on a lift-out bridge that allows me access to the layout in the loft above my garage. I have all four rail ends fed with 22 gauge feeders that end up wrapped around 1/2" wood screws. Those screws sit on steel L-brackets of the size used inside cabinets. The L-brackets are fed by feeders from the bus on the rest of the layout. When I lift upt the bridge, it is a clean break, no wires to undo.
As it is wired, all four ends feds on each end of the double cross-over, I have no issues. However, the points rails do have to be properly snugged up against their stock rails. Any slight deviation of the kind that could invite the very odd picking episode will almost certainly result in some stalling due to intermittent contact. When I am sure the points are sitting flush against the stock rails, none of my many locos tested so far has stalled.
Well? I've really done it this time. I think I screwed up my double crossover for the last time. I can't get the engines to go over it without derailing. Anyway, I've been looking to replace it. I've noticed that some of the listings on eBay say DCC friendly, or not. What's the difference? I guess I never really was concerned about that when I bought my present one. Right now I'm running analogue but future plans are for DCC. Obviously cheaper is better. That being said is "DCC friendly" just a matter of jumper contacts from one section to the other? Or is it more complicated than that? Really anxious to get some help one this. There's one that's still pretty cheap but the sale ends in 2 days.
While cheaper is better works for a bit of things, when it comes to something as complex as a double crossover, I think honestly you would be a
lot better off spending the money on a top of the line piece. Less of a chance of bad manufacturing, better set up for DCC, etc.
Just my opinion of course.
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