Dioramas
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Oh, but I'm eager. This diorama is certainly an exercise in modelling and hopefully will be able to apply what I learn from this to my next layout.
I'm now trying to figure how to make some beach wrack. I've tried some polyester fibres, but can't seem to get the paint to adhere to them. Will probably have to use oil based. I'm tempted to get some dog hairs.
Thanks Mike.
The darker areas with the grey and reddish colour will eventually have a wet look to it, but gotta do some research and experimenting on the side to get the look I want. I'm going to make it look like this hopefully. I have to find out if I can add colour to Future Wax.
Thanks. I'm still waiting on the fishplates. When they come I will apply them and get on with painting the rails.
In the meantime, still experimenting with all sorts of materials in order to come up with some beach wrack and seaweed.
Thanks Ron. I'm so eager to get on with the diorama. Help from forum members and experimenting is indeed bringing it to life. This is a great learning experience for me and look forward to applying it to my next layout. Man! I sure miss my old layout and can't wait to start on another.
Well, I got brave and used the Floquil pen and I love it! Nice and thin. It took me only 40 seconds to do two feet of track. It does need another coat though because some primer is showing through especially near the the bottom edge of the rail. Now I'm wondering how long should I wait before the next coat.
I used Loctite Super Glue.
Let me know, if you can, how those 150% spikes work and how you put them in.
Now that's something I was thinking about, but don't know how to go about it.
Tomorrow I will apply the second coat then later I can get on with the ballasting.
Thanks for the info!
I was thinking of staggering the fishplates, but only saw them un-staggered in some photos I used as a reference. Oh well, will do it on the next diorama.
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railfan
junk collector
You seem to not be in a hurry Zoe. You are a detail guy....carefully planning your next move....very particular.....in a good way....time is on your side. Breathe in...........................breathe out. Repeat. Serene on the hilltop.......as the ages slowly pass by. 
Mike
Mike
You seem to not be in a hurry Zoe. You are a detail guy....carefully planning your next move....very particular.....in a good way....time is on your side. Breathe in...........................breathe out. Repeat. Serene on the hilltop.......as the ages slowly pass by.
Mike
Oh, but I'm eager. This diorama is certainly an exercise in modelling and hopefully will be able to apply what I learn from this to my next layout.
I'm now trying to figure how to make some beach wrack. I've tried some polyester fibres, but can't seem to get the paint to adhere to them. Will probably have to use oil based. I'm tempted to get some dog hairs.
Thanks Mike.
The darker areas with the grey and reddish colour will eventually have a wet look to it, but gotta do some research and experimenting on the side to get the look I want. I'm going to make it look like this hopefully. I have to find out if I can add colour to Future Wax.
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Aerial view.
I noticed while out on the weekend that riprap can be made up of different rock types - brownish, yellowish, etc so I dry brushed and washed some stones with different colours. That annoying bluish tinge in the rocks is from the natural light in the sky. The don't look bluish indoors or in direct sunlight.
I noticed while out on the weekend that riprap can be made up of different rock types - brownish, yellowish, etc so I dry brushed and washed some stones with different colours. That annoying bluish tinge in the rocks is from the natural light in the sky. The don't look bluish indoors or in direct sunlight.
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Thanks. I'm still waiting on the fishplates. When they come I will apply them and get on with painting the rails.
In the meantime, still experimenting with all sorts of materials in order to come up with some beach wrack and seaweed.
Thanks Ron. I'm so eager to get on with the diorama. Help from forum members and experimenting is indeed bringing it to life. This is a great learning experience for me and look forward to applying it to my next layout. Man! I sure miss my old layout and can't wait to start on another.
I finally got the fishplates and put them on today. I find them much nicer and fit better than the Details West ones I had.
I will start painting the rails soon, but have to figure out how to do so without loosing the detail on the fish plates. I don't have an airbrush so I might think of doing thinned layers. I have some Floquil markers, but I'm a bit nervous about them.
I will start painting the rails soon, but have to figure out how to do so without loosing the detail on the fish plates. I don't have an airbrush so I might think of doing thinned layers. I have some Floquil markers, but I'm a bit nervous about them.
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Well, I got brave and used the Floquil pen and I love it! Nice and thin. It took me only 40 seconds to do two feet of track. It does need another coat though because some primer is showing through especially near the the bottom edge of the rail. Now I'm wondering how long should I wait before the next coat.
Looking good.
Yea, there's nothing like just going for it and then having it turn out.
I'd wait 24 hours or at least over night before recoating.
If the paint isn't completely set the second coat could loosen and pull of the first coat.
Now I'm going to have to get a bunch of those fish plates for the track on my layout.
I'm already planning to use Proto87 Store's 150% scale spikes. I tried the 100% scale spikes are almost too small to see and make a difference. The 150% looked good.
How did you attach the plates to the rail? CA glue?
Yea, there's nothing like just going for it and then having it turn out.
I'd wait 24 hours or at least over night before recoating.
If the paint isn't completely set the second coat could loosen and pull of the first coat.
Now I'm going to have to get a bunch of those fish plates for the track on my layout.
I'm already planning to use Proto87 Store's 150% scale spikes. I tried the 100% scale spikes are almost too small to see and make a difference. The 150% looked good.
How did you attach the plates to the rail? CA glue?
I used Loctite Super Glue.
Let me know, if you can, how those 150% spikes work and how you put them in.
Now that's something I was thinking about, but don't know how to go about it.
Tomorrow I will apply the second coat then later I can get on with the ballasting.
A very thin saw to cut rail joints. I use a jeweler's saw to cut the frog gaps in my hand-laid turn-outs. The blade is 0.010 inch thick.
I would have staggered where the fish plates are on the rails instead of having them directly across from each other.
I did buy sample packs of Proto87's spikes and tried them out. I used a small pair of needle nose pliers to hold and insert the spikes. This isn't to hard to do. The spikes are photo etched and are attached to the 'spree' at the tips. So I bend the head end away then grab it with the pliers. A couple of twists breaks the spike free. Just remember which way the head points and align the pliers with the head to the rail and push the spike into the wood tie up against the rail base. Then release the spike, close the pliers and use the flat end to push the spike down with the head catching on the rail base.
I would have staggered where the fish plates are on the rails instead of having them directly across from each other.
I did buy sample packs of Proto87's spikes and tried them out. I used a small pair of needle nose pliers to hold and insert the spikes. This isn't to hard to do. The spikes are photo etched and are attached to the 'spree' at the tips. So I bend the head end away then grab it with the pliers. A couple of twists breaks the spike free. Just remember which way the head points and align the pliers with the head to the rail and push the spike into the wood tie up against the rail base. Then release the spike, close the pliers and use the flat end to push the spike down with the head catching on the rail base.
Thanks for the info!
I was thinking of staggering the fishplates, but only saw them un-staggered in some photos I used as a reference. Oh well, will do it on the next diorama.
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