Dcc wiring for one loco

[Iron Horseman]

you might think about a DCC booster someplace in the line.

I don't think I could recommend a booster for a layout with 1 locomotive. Boosters are what one would add when the number of locomotives causes the electrical current demand to go up and over what the original power supply can provide.

 

[Aerojet]

That's true. But just reading thru who knows what the problem is. Just trying another idea. Could be bad wiring, undersized wires, poor connections & etc. One never knows without getting in there with w VOM and checking the current / voltage ... Not sure how far this gent is into electrical work, so just shooting ideas out....

The Aerojet

 

[pmwtrain]

Thanks for all the feedback, guys. Sorry I'm just replying now but have been busy with work.

Regarding some recent comments, I don't think a booster is needed based on my understanding (such as it is). I also don't suspect undersized wires. I use 14 gauge for the bus and presently the only feeders are from terminal joiners (I believe 20-22 gauge). As I start to solder my feeders to the rails I plan to use 18 gauge. The engine is new but perhaps needs cleaning.

The engine is is running well since I ran it with throttle wide open for a while. Maybe that has nothing to do with it but just a coincidence. I'm hoping to add more than just the one set of feeders soon and the problem will go away.

Thanks for all the help, everyone. I'll let you know how I make out

 

[MikeOwnby]

Thanks for all the feedback, guys. Sorry I'm just replying now but have been busy with work.

Regarding some recent comments, I don't think a booster is needed based on my understanding (such as it is). I also don't suspect undersized wires. I use 14 gauge for the bus and presently the only feeders are from terminal joiners (I believe 20-22 gauge). As I start to solder my feeders to the rails I plan to use 18 gauge. The engine is new but perhaps needs cleaning.

The engine is is running well since I ran it with throttle wide open for a while. Maybe that has nothing to do with it but just a coincidence. I'm hoping to add more than just the one set of feeders soon and the problem will go away.

Thanks for all the help, everyone. I'll let you know how I make out

Sounds like your plans are right on the money. And you also bring up something that has so far escaped the discussion. Locomotives do generally have a break-in period during which things will loosen up, settle in, and even clean up as the moving parts settle into their proper places and get rid of various lubricants and coatings that were present during manufacturing. I've had many people tell me to run a loco for an hour to properly break it in and see how it's really going to run before trying to speed-match and so forth. Here's hoping that's what has been going on with yours and the problems are quickly disappearing into the rear view mirror.

 

[bnsf971]

I've done a quick scan through this thread, and have a question for you: What BLI engine do you have? I have a good reason for asking.

 

[pmwtrain]

Terry, sorry I haven't replied to your question until now. I did not see your post.

My BLI is a Paragon 2 SW-1500. I called NCE about the problem on the chance it had to do with the DCC system.
Their rep. told me it is a common problem with BLI.

Now... here's what's happened since I last posted:

I have cleaned the track and engine's wheels to an almost absurd degree . I have also added four sets of feeders
but the problem persists. I contacted BLI and they are paying for me to send it to Fla. for repairs. Perhaps the most
surprising thing to me is because this engine has a DCC / DC dual decoder, my local train store owner suggested I
disconnect the Power Cab and try running it on DC. I did so and the engine did absolutely nothing! I used a multi-tester
and found there was power to the track but no headlight, no movement.

The engine will be on it's way to Fla. tomorrow and hopefully they'll fix it. While I can't say I will ever buy a BLI loco again,
I must say that they stand by their product. They promise they will do whatever it takes to resolve the issue. I'm not impressed
with their product but appreciate their great customer service.

If anyone has thoughts about the lack of DC operation I would be interested in hearing them (electronics are not my thing).

Thanks all

 

[tootnkumin]

It doesn't just happen with BLI (although they do seem to be having more than a fair share). I installed an NCE silent decoder in one of my engines a couple of days ago (done about 20 so far), programmed on the programming track, identified the maker and model, but wouldn't take any programming of address and wouldn't operate on address 3. One thing I did forget to do was to try it on my DC track first, which is usually recommended, on the basis of "if it will work on DC it usually will with DCC" and if it won't then likewise. So I'll be "plonking" it onto my DC test track to confirm the suspicion that it's a dud.

 

[new guy]

I make sure the tops of the rails are CLEAN and shiny. I go back over the track and "pinch" the fishplates or joiners onto the rails like a "spot weld" with a pair of old "shovel nose" wire cutters. I had track 60 feet from power and no troubles. I'm no merlin or electrical mathmagician! It's all about "electron flow". It's possible but not recommended, go with the drops as needed. A Muti-meter is almost as essential for insuring it is not the track but the loco or vice versa. I put power to the rails and check every piece to see if it is "hot" before I try to run anything.