Dcc sound n a sdp40f

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Catt, do you want sound or realistic sound. Big difference. And a big difference in the capabilities of "sound" decoders. Listen to one of your "good sound decoders", then listen to a Tsunami. I'll check back later to get your critique.

bob
 
Bob,don't hold your breath waiting,because I for one will not own a noise equipted loco,and don't tell me I don't know what I am missing because I know exactly what I'm not missing.(by the way did you really read what I actually said about the sound decoder?)
 
Guys, just a quick note. Although there is a slight similarity in appearance, that is actually an Athearn FP45 painted in Amtrak's scheme. As far as sound, the prototype SDP40fs used turbocharged 16 cylinder EMD 645 series engines. The first horns used were Leslie SL4T horns, usually split in a pair over the cab roof, and later the Nathan P5a horn set, also split in a pair. Soundtraxx offers the Tsunami decoder with the P5a horn sound.
 


Guys, just a quick note. Although there is a slight similarity in appearance, that is actually an Athearn FP45 painted in Amtrak's scheme.
Yeah, that's typical Athearn thinking. Why make new tooling and molds when a close facsimile will do. Look how long they passed off an SW7 as an SW1500.
 
You're overlooking the fact those models were produced over two decades ago. How is that relevant to today?

Not slamming new models for those that are 20 years old. But, I wonder how many "new ones" will be running it 20 years? Doubtful there will be many.

You ask how is it relevant? Obviously, you don't realize that many of these models are STILL on layouts today. Old Globe, Varney, Athearn BB, ....the list goes on. And at a better price, even when one figures in teh "dollar equivalent" of today's dollar. Too many today are "cracker jack box" modelers. Not a slam but a fact. Not necessarily a bad thing, but those of us who prefer kits to RTR are left out. Pretty selfish that the new trend leave so many adrift. If the new breed has to invest a bit of time(read patience) they opt out. I guess that patience doesn't come RTR.

And some of those 20-year old, sometimes older, models look as nice, if not better, than today's offerings. I can show you hundreds.......and I won't have to travel far to prove that. I have models nearly 70 years old on my layout that have been detailed, and upgraded, that look, and run, better than those sold today, and will last another 70 years, without a doubt.

I wouldn't trade those old trains for a truckload of the new RTR products.

Bob
 
Nd plus the older models give you a certain pride when you rebuild them or detail them.certain models they dont make no more as well
 
And some of those 20-year old, sometimes older, models look as nice, if not better, than today's offerings. I can show you hundreds.......and I won't have to travel far to prove that. I have models nearly 70 years old on my layout that have been detailed, and upgraded, that look, and run, better than those sold today, and will last another 70 years, without a doubt.
Right on Bob! I've got some old Athearn blue box locos I bought back in the early 80's (translate to almost 30 years old) that still run great. Original motors in most of them but the wheels have been switched out for nickel silver replacements and DCC decoders have been added to many of them. I also have two Atlas GP40's that were made in the 70's. They now wear newer more detailed Bachmann GP40 shells and have DCC decoders but as for the chassis, they're original. Original motors, wheels, drive, etc. I also have an old Bachmann 0-6-0 (pancake drive) from the 70's that still runs well. As for the newer stuff, I've had a ton of them bite the dust already. Bad motors, loose gears, and some that were just built crappy even though they cost well over $50. I have some standard line Bachmann DCC OnBoard offering that are still running even after several P2K's and a Kato have gone the way of the dodo bird. Age doesn't enter into the equation much anymore it seems as does quality of the mechanism. The detail of the two shells that came with my Atlas locos is very poor (reason I changed them out) but the locos still run. One of my Athearn F7 A-B sets (cost about $13 each at the most new) is nearly 30 years old but they still run flawlessly. I wish some of my newer, more expensive Proto 2000's (less than 6 years old) ran as well. The pickups on them are just plain crap. Several of the newer RTR Athearn offerings I bought within the past 2 years have motors that you can fry an egg on after one lap around the layout. That's pitiful! No, I take that back. At nearly $100 a pop that's a crime! And they weren't even DCC. I had to shell out extra for a decoder because putting a decoder into a DC unit was cheaper than buying Athearn's DCC equipped loco, a good $60 less in most cases. And people wonder why I favor the older blue box kit locos. Yes, I have to put the metal handrails together but at least they don't break the first time I breath on them. I've lost count of the number of times I've seen people bringing the RTR locos back to the LHS I go to not because they don't run right but because the paint is a shade off or a handrail is loose. One that I know of was brought back because, get this, it didn't run fast enough. It ran at a scale 80-90 mph on the LHS layout. Guess the guy wanted warp 6 or better. Whatever happened to 'Fix-It-Yourself' or don't modelers know how to do that anymore. I have a problem with a loco I replace the part. If I don't have the part I order it, trade for it or adapt a part to fit. Very rarely do I take a loco back to have some piddly part like a handrail replaced. Well, I guess that's it. Hey, where the heck did this soap box come from?!
 
Jeffrey, if you wnat a test of patience, try converting and old Varney, or Athearn Hi-F to DCC. I've fried more decoders on those engines than any other. Pretty much amp hogs.

I've been working on restoring a few engines lately. Old Varney steamers mostly. Parts are plaentiful, not too expensive at all through Yardbirds. When finished, I'll have 4 updated 60 year old engines.

And my collection of old Athearn Hi-F's is rivaled by few. I bought a lifetime supply of rubber bands at Dollar Tree. Cost? $1.00.

I have about a dozen P2K engines that have had their gears changed due to breaking. And my Spectrums have had to have their railings replaced by metal replacements. About the ONLY newer engines I haven't had to repair are my Katos, and Atlas/Roco power. Those are the diesels.

On the steam front, the best newer engines , IMO, are the Rivarossi Red Box engines. And those aren't made any more, but are available on eBay and from the back rooms of LHS's. Real horses when it comes to power, and very sturdy, though some of the finer details need care when handling. Spectrum, BLI, and the rest leave a bit to be desired. They sure look nice but mechanically are turds.

Some of these "newbs" have nothing to compare the new stuff. They think it is all top shelf. NOT!!!! They wouldn't think of buying a 40 year old engine, or even a 20-year old one, fixing it up, detailing it, and placing it on their layout. Maybe it's the thrill of owning the "latest and greatest". A bit of "look what I got" and a bragging rights I guess. I'd place ANY piece I have, ANY, against ANY of the new stuff. I know of no "new" engine that can pull 329 coal cars by themselves without MU'ing. I have a an"old" engine that will do that and more, we ran out of coal cars for that demonstration. Bragging a bit here, but ............

Is the "new " stuff better? Ask me in 40 years....

Bob
 


Jeffrey, if you wnat a test of patience, try converting and old Varney, or Athearn Hi-F to DCC. I've fried more decoders on those engines than any other. Pretty much amp hogs.

I've been working on restoring a few engines lately. Old Varney steamers mostly. Parts are plaentiful, not too expensive at all through Yardbirds. When finished, I'll have 4 updated 60 year old engines.

And my collection of old Athearn Hi-F's is rivaled by few. I bought a lifetime supply of rubber bands at Dollar Tree. Cost? $1.00.

I have about a dozen P2K engines that have had their gears changed due to breaking. And my Spectrums have had to have their railings replaced by metal replacements. About the ONLY newer engines I haven't had to repair are my Katos, and Atlas/Roco power. Those are the diesels.

On the steam front, the best newer engines , IMO, are the Rivarossi Red Box engines. And those aren't made any more, but are available on eBay and from the back rooms of LHS's. Real horses when it comes to power, and very sturdy, though some of the finer details need care when handling. Spectrum, BLI, and the rest leave a bit to be desired. They sure look nice but mechanically are turds.

Some of these "newbs" have nothing to compare the new stuff. They think it is all top shelf. NOT!!!! They wouldn't think of buying a 40 year old engine, or even a 20-year old one, fixing it up, detailing it, and placing it on their layout. Maybe it's the thrill of owning the "latest and greatest". A bit of "look what I got" and a bragging rights I guess. I'd place ANY piece I have, ANY, against ANY of the new stuff. I know of no "new" engine that can pull 329 coal cars by themselves without MU'ing. I have a an"old" engine that will do that and more, we ran out of coal cars for that demonstration. Bragging a bit here, but ............

Is the "new " stuff better? Ask me in 40 years....

Bob

It's interesting how this "the old stuff is better than the new stuff" theme creeps into so many threads. Is it really though? To offer some different opinions:

I have never had cracked gears on any of my P2K locos. That was a problem early on because they machined the holes in the gears too small. It has long since been resolved. Lifelike and Walthers gave away God only knows how many free wheelsets, probably enough to re-wheel more locos than were made, to fix the problem. It got so ridiculous that they finally started charging for them. If you buy "old new stock" out of swap meets, or on e-Bay, it is still possible to run across them I guess, but I never have. Just lucky I suppose. I just popped the tape on an old P2K E-6 this morning to install a decoder. It's an old first run I bought out of an estate. Has a dummy plug in it, but the old Athearn style motor, and essentially an Athearn BB style drive train. I trash the P2K boards anyway and just hardwire in decoders

I don't miss the old too wide hoods on the BB GP-7/9's and SD-9's, and the too large BB F-7 windows, the current hog motors, the iron wheels, the cast on grabs, and all that. Not at all! And I don't really miss buying a $40.00 BB, then adding $75.00 worth of detail parts to get it close. I don't miss the days of one model lettered for every road under the sun. I can still add detail parts to the newer stuff if I want an exact match for a prototype, so the art isn't dead or dying, you just don't have as far to go to finish. I have sold most of my old BB stuff as better models became available, but still have a bunch of BB switchers, and a lone GP-35, and I still superdetail, but I like having a better starting point and less gross errors to correct.

Will the new stuff still run in 60 years? Well since at that time I'll be 115 years old, I hope I'm around to find out;), but actually I think it will. With normal maintenance, no reason it shouldn't. The old stuff wears out too. Talk to CJ and ask him how many old Pittman motors he's rebuilt, or even better, go look at that layout in Chattanooga that runs constantly and check out their exhibits of worn out equipment.

Red box Rivarossis? Only ever bought one. Thought it was the grandest thing at the time but...that crappy old AHM three pole motor they had in it wasn't worth the powder to blow it to Hades, and the running gear quality was very poor. I still have it, but it's a roundhouse queen. Sentimental value only. Now there was a mechanical turd!

The newer steam from BLI and spectrum looks good and runs well in my and our clubs experience. Very little trouble from it. The move to diecast boilers is doing wonders for pulling power as well. Our club got one of the new Paragon Y-6b's, and it runs great, and will pull the plaster off the wall. You can also pick it up without breaking something. Plenty of older generation BLI stuff is around as well. We use them regularly in operating sessions. They run like clocks. I'll give you this though...it takes more skill to work on them than older steam and older brass, and there isn't much of anything in the way of aftermarket parts. OTOH, they haven't needed much of anything.

I think that it's less a matter of quality than a matter of doing what you enjoy. If you like the old stuff better, more power to ya! Likewise if you like the new stuff. It's about doing what floats your boat.
 
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ok. Thats good. Does A-line motors give good performance for passenger operations? Also since the prototypes had derailing issues would the rebuild of this model would? I do know i need to change the wheel for more prototypical look?

The A-Line motors are top of the line can motors. I have used them extensively in brass re-motoring and in old Athearn re-powers. As good as Sagami, or Mashima.
 
well months later lol. Im going to be using a can motor to test the axles out and make sure the gears aint mess up. Im going to be using a can motor from one of the F40PH's that are being converted to a NCPU
 




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