DCC Sound Installation Services

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Guilford Railman

Guilford Railman

Well-Known Member
I have 3 locomotives that I’d like to have converted to DCC w/ sound. Has anybody used any services for this that they recommend?

I don’t have the time to do this myself and the locomotives I’d like converted are ones I’d prefer not to be the ones I practice DCC conversions on for the first time.

Two of these locomotives also need new handrails and I may elect to have new ones installed at the same time if the service provides that. I’m also considering ditch lights but that’s less important.

Appreciate any feedback:)
 


For an Atlas RS1, if you can live without sound, try a Digitrax DH187A0 or a Soundtraxx MC2H104at. Both are "motor-only" decoders that are purpose-designed to fit Atlas engines.

The Soundtraxx is my favorite because all the connectors are labeled.

One thing about the Atlas RS1. The hood is so narrow that I couldn't re-use the rubber "retainers" to connect the motor leads to the decoder -- they "stuck out" just enough so the hood wouldn't fit back down over it. The solution was to solder those two wires (only). All the other retainers fit without problems. A pic:
NH 0668 (photoscape x).jpg

On other engines like the old Proto1000 RS2's and RS11's, there's enough room, no soldering required (although I always "tin" all the leads to give them strength).

A final thought:
Paying someone to install sound into these (probably older) engines will probably run you a bill that is almost as high as buying replacements with sound already installed. Especially for older Athearn GP9's. There's probably much nicer stuff "out there" ... I'd take a look at "new-old-stock" Proto2000 GP9's/GP7's (depending on what road names you want)...
 
J.Albert said:
For an Atlas RS1, if you can live without sound, try a Digitrax DH187A0 or a Soundtraxx MC2H104at. Both are "motor-only" decoders that are purpose-designed to fit Atlas engines.

The Soundtraxx is my favorite because all the connectors are labeled.

One thing about the Atlas RS1. The hood is so narrow that I couldn't re-use the rubber "retainers" to connect the motor leads to the decoder -- they "stuck out" just enough so the hood wouldn't fit back down over it. The solution was to solder those two wires (only). All the other retainers fit without problems. A pic:
View attachment 245248
On other engines like the old Proto1000 RS2's and RS11's, there's enough room, no soldering required (although I always "tin" all the leads to give them strength).

A final thought:
Paying someone to install sound into these (probably older) engines will probably run you a bill that is almost as high as buying replacements with sound already installed. Especially for older Athearn GP9's. There's probably much nicer stuff "out there" ... I'd take a look at "new-old-stock" Proto2000 GP9's/GP7's (depending on what road names you want)...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback! I definitely want sound in all the locomotives.

I have heard that due to the shape of the RS1 that installing decoders and speakers can be tricky.

The road name I’m modeling (Green Mountain Railroad) is not readily available so finding locomotives already equipped with decoders and speakers is going to be tough. I suppose if I could find a chassis for each locomotive with the equipment already installed that would work.

The price will definitely not be cheap but it might be worth it, especially since I’ve never installed decoders and these three locomotives are precious to me and I don’t want to jeopardize them in any way.
 


Guilford Railman said:
Thanks for the link! I did come across them while searching for a service. Do you know anyone that has used their service before?
Click to expand...
I can handle anything you need done.
Painting, bodywork, mechanical, electrical...
I will do these three for 10 an hour.
I will document time and progress right in this thread.
You can order me to stop at anytime, just pay what you owe up to that point.
 
Michael B said:
I can handle anything you need done.
Painting, bodywork, mechanical, electrical...
I will do these three for 10 an hour.
I will document time and progress right in this thread.
You can order me to stop at anytime, just pay what you owe up to that point.
Click to expand...
I will send you a message with some info on the locomotives and some pictures of them as well. If you could give me an estimate on the hours required for each, that’ll be helpful for budgeting purposes. Thanks!
 
Guilford Railman said:
I will send you a message with some info on the locomotives and some pictures of them as well. If you could give me an estimate on the hours required for each, that’ll be helpful for budgeting purposes. Thanks!
Click to expand...
You need to decide what decoders you want...

For drop in decoders, an hour or two each - providing they
fit right, and that the speaker is board mounted.
Many times the drop ins are not so drop in.

Wired decoders are much more involved and most require
more then four hours. Some require much more - you have to mount
a speaker & decoder & lights. For these the thing that makes a good install in
my mind is - is it easy to work on the mechanism after the conversion.

Take a close look at this install, where the drives just slide out like normal.
It's N scale to boot. This was for me, so time did not matter.

Auxillary lights, and custom(non-board mounted) headlights are extra.
Adding custom formed lead weight, roller bearings are also extra...
 

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Michael B said:
You need to decide what decoders you want...

For drop in decoders, an hour or two each - providing they
fit right, and that the speaker is board mounted.
Many times the drop ins are not so drop in.

Wired decoders are much more involved and most require
more then four hours. Some require much more - you have to mount
a speaker & decoder & lights. For these the thing that makes a good install in
my mind is - is it easy to work on the mechanism after the conversion.

Take a close look at this install, where the drives just slide out like normal.
It's N scale to boot. This was for me, so time did not matter.

Auxillary lights, and custom(non-board mounted) headlights are extra.
Adding custom formed lead weight, roller bearings are also extra...
Click to expand...
I am thinking ESU Loksound as I have those in my other locomotives but I suppose it’s a matter of whether or not it’ll fit in the Alco RS1 and the two Athearn GP9s.

The GP9s would have to be wired in as there is nothing to “plug and play”. The RS1 I’m not sure about yet as I haven’t removed the shell to take a look.

I’ll have to take a look and get a better idea. Thanks for the info, that helps break it down!
 
Guilford Railman said:
I am thinking ESU Loksound as I have those in my other locomotives but I suppose it’s a matter of whether or not it’ll fit in the Alco RS1 and the two Athearn GP9s.

The GP9s would have to be wired in as there is nothing to “plug and play”. The RS1 I’m not sure about yet as I haven’t removed the shell to take a look.

I’ll have to take a look and get a better idea. Thanks for the info, that helps break it down!
Click to expand...
www.modelrrsupply.com

58823 Loksound 5 DCC Micro Sound Decoder - Bare wire ends

BULK PRICING ON THIS ITEM - SEE BELOW Programming information: We are happy to load the ESU sound file for you. Below, select "$1.99 Programing Fee" and note what locomotive you will be installing in or search the extensive list of sound files at this link: ESU SOUND FILES. Loksound 5 sound file...
www.modelrrsupply.com
 
That atlas RS1 takes a board style decoder very nicely here is a like to the install I did on my own. ATLAS RS1.



The ESU sound is better but if you don't have a Lokprogrammer ($155) you are dependent on who ever you get the decoder from to download and tweak the file for your unit (Horn Bell and other road specific sounds"

The Tsunami2 PnP 8 Alco decoder has pretty much every sound you'll need on it. Bothe are around the same price.

Most important part of the install really is the speakers. I'm set on Scalesoundsystems.com speaker they sound amazing. I am revisiting this engine shortly to add separate number board lighting and a cab light
 
J.Albert said:
For an Atlas RS1, if you can live without sound, try a Digitrax DH187A0 or a Soundtraxx MC2H104at. Both are "motor-only" decoders that are purpose-designed to fit Atlas engines.
Click to expand...
I was going to share similar. This is a wonderful locomotive but the clearances are so tight inside installing anything but motor only type decoders is a royal pain. I did have a friend who squeezed in sound using 4 modified iPhone-4 flat speakers. I cannot say how he did it though. I think he had to cut into the factory weights.
 


Iron Horseman said:
I was going to share similar. This is a wonderful locomotive but the clearances are so tight inside installing anything but motor only type decoders is a royal pain. I did have a friend who squeezed in sound using 4 modified iPhone-4 flat speakers. I cannot say how he did it though. I think he had to cut into the factory weights.
Click to expand...
It definitely seems like this will be a challenge for either myself or a person/service that completes the work. I might be better off finding an RS1 chassis with DCC/sound already installed.
 
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